Jump to content

Zenith Espada Chronograph/Movado Astronic HS 360


Recommended Posts

I’m in the process of servicing this fine model. The glass crystal is well scratched up and the crystal gasket disintegrated to a point beyond recognition. I have yet to be able to find a crystal replacement and will see if I can have it polished.. if anyone knows were I can find a crystal replacement let me know. Assuming I can polish or replace it, the rate limiting factor appears to be sourcing the crystal gasket(s). Does anyone know where to source one or at least how it should look like/dimensions so that hopefully I can find something similar aftermarket? Thanks in advance.

DC915DEE-9AF2-4300-8704-799D63B08C71.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should disassemble the case first and measure the OD and thickness of the crystal and the ID of the bezel. Then you might find the right parts at cousinsuk.com. The dimensional overlap between bezel, gasket and crystal should be about 0,1mm to get a tight fit.

Edited by Kalanag
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Rasputin said:

will see if I can have it polished.

If needed, as a last measure you can do that yourself quite easily. 

3 hours ago, Rasputin said:

 hopefully I can find something similar aftermarket?

Both glass crystals and their gaskets are made in a large variety of types, and in every possible size. So unless there are very special features on a watch these two items are easily and cheaply replaced. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had to relegate this to my watchmaker who indicated that this requires a unique kind of crystal gasket that he has not seen on other watches.  Unfortunately he does not know exactly how it should look like as the original one melted away.  Hence I'm hoping someone give me some guidance as trying to find an OEM replacement has been a struggle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, Rasputin said:

I had to relegate this to my watchmaker who indicated that this requires a unique kind of crystal gasket that he has not seen on other watches.

Can you post clear pictures of the crystal profile, all its dimensions, and same for the case opening. That is done measuring with a vernier or digital caliper. 

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you confirm that the difference between the case opening and the crystal major diameter is 0.14mm that makes a gap in between the two of 0.07mm, that is too little for a nylon (or any material) gasket, which start at 0.4mm. It could be that the crystal is to be glued instead. The other possibility would be that the crystal is held on the smaller step, but I doubt that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/23/2022 at 9:47 AM, jdm said:

If you confirm that the difference between the case opening and the crystal major diameter is 0.14mm that makes a gap in between the two of 0.07mm, that is too little for a nylon (or any material) gasket, which start at 0.4mm. It could be that the crystal is to be glued instead. The other possibility would be that the crystal is held on the smaller step, but I doubt that.

Are you sure glue would be used considering it's likely a water resistant case with a screw down crown and case back?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Rasputin said:

Are you sure glue would be used considering it's likely a water resistant case with a screw down crown and case back?

I am just saying that no gasket will fit and the logical consequence is that it has to be glued. Which if done correctly allows no water to enter. The fact that you found the original gasket disintegrated, as in leaving only small debris is consistent with the above. 

BTW, screw down crown and case back are simply features of quality construction, back then as now normally found in dress watches as well. These in itself do not guarantee impermeability, nitryl gaskets do. And in chronos water has also another major way of entering, from the pushers. 

Edited by jdm
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • RichardHarris123: Hello and welcome from Leeds, England.  I have family all over Australia, went as £10 poms Thanks Richard. Hope you’re able to visit your family here and that they’ve all done well 🙂 My relatives arrived from England in the 1790s transported on the ‘Second & Third Fleets’—a story of timber sailing ships, of convicts and doing well in this huge Country of Australia. When I visited the UK in the 1980s, I was too young to comprehend the depth and breadth of its history…  Best wishes, Mike William Chapman, my 4th great Grandad’s charges, at age 23 read at the Old Bailey; sentenced to 7 years of transportation to Sydney.
    • The whole process and the progress are closely observed, it's hand-driven and very controlled. I can't see the "danger", unless you are watching the TV while doing it. As you could have read, and in this quote "wheel" is the balance-wheel.
    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
×
×
  • Create New...