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Back in the driving seat. Actually watch room seat


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1655248925634533155679715336729.thumb.jpg.4f8deb72eb4089b04482c9fa599f4dc9.jpgHi everyone, hope you are all well and happy. So after two months of doing no repairing whatsoever I'm finally back at it.  A much needed long break for various reasons mostly to recover, reevaluate and reset the old noggin. Learnt plenty here in that time bought some cool gadgets and finished reorganizing the watch cave so time to put all of that to good use. Just looking at a vintage swiss, my favourite. This is a Tempora brand,  a movement Osco 66 kindly identified for me by watchmaker and mikepik, thank you guys. Demag done, but no tg testing as it was part stripped down by me 10 weeks ago. Seems to not want to run dial up , both balance pivots are intact but not fully inspected them as I've noticed something  about the hairspring. Pictures are naff, i need a decent camera if anyone wants to  recommend some20220615_000228.thumb.jpg.f788cc0812eab893df5516d95ebcfe54.jpg

20220615_000402.jpg

1655248815620385364785557042075.jpg

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
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6 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Pictures are naff, i need a decent camera if anyone wants to  recommend some

I had been using a Canon 40d with a 100mm macro lens for years but have realised of late that the camera on my 3 year old mobile is probably better, it's a Huawei P20. The phone could be bought for a fraction of the price of my lens these days... a more modern phone should be even better. 

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39 minutes ago, Plato said:

I had been using a Canon 40d with a 100mm macro lens for years but have realised of late that the camera on my 3 year old mobile is probably better, it's a Huawei P20. The phone could be bought for a fraction of the price of my lens these days... a more modern phone should be even better. 

Thanks plato 👍👍 These photos are from my Samsung a12 phone. A cheap phone. Normally the macro is ok, these have come out pants and grainy, apart from the last one which was taken through the eyepiece of my scope. Was a real bugger to position took me nearly five mins to get.

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
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14 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Thanks plato 👍👍 These photos are from my Samsung a12 phone. A cheap phone. Normally the macro is ok, these have come out pants and grainy, apart from the last one which was taken through the eyepiece of my scope. Was a real bugger to position took me nearly five mins to get.

What's wrong with this hairspring?IMG_20220615_213958.thumb.jpg.7a6c59324068d7efc4edbb3b4d28f255.jpg

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38 minutes ago, grsnovi said:

Does it run in other positions?

Is the hs touching any other parts when on the cock and threaded through the regulator?

Is the hs flat while on the cock and mounted in the watch?

 

Hiya G. Wouldnt run dial up, but ive sorted that.  The top pivot and around the collet covered in yellow grud ? Look carefully at the hairspring shape. What is missing on the outer coil ? I can't point to it as I took picture on my Amazon and that device won't edit. I'll take another photo of the hairspring correction I've made 

1655330407286-1305879905.jpg

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
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26 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

What is missing on the outer coil ?

Well, to my eyes there seems to be a kink in the spiral around the 8 o'clock position in your last photo.

There's no Breguet over coil, but that's OK.

Are you wanting to see a specific break for the terminal curve? The h/s out of the Chinese Seagull has a long terminal curve. Not all do.

What is it you don't like about the h/s?

 

hs.jpg

seagull.jpg

Edited by grsnovi
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3 minutes ago, grsnovi said:

Well, to my eyes there seems to be a kink in the spiral around the 8 o'clock position in your last photo.

There's no Breguet over coil, but that's OK.

Are you wanting to see a specific break for the terminal curve? The h/s out of the Chinese Seagull has a long terminal curve. Not all do.

What is it you don't like about the h/s?

 

hs.jpg

seagull.jpg

That's the start of the end curve. It was a cheap movement so maybe why it didn't have that. It ran ok but not great. Much better to have a defined last curve following the regulator path more accurately

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2 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

What's wrong with this hairspring?

usually the best way to tell if you're having a hairspring issue is if you get us a picture of the hairspring in the watch. Often times it's hard to tell out of the watch because years of the problem is only in the watch. Out of the watch they hairspring might not be quite right but it's much easier to see in the watch. like for instance if it's bent at the stud it's almost impossible to see out of watch.

Then my imagination is running wild as I think I see? It might be a shadow it may be we need a much better picture because I just can't tell. Then you don't necessarily need an expensive fancy camera I usually take all my close-up pictures with a Canon point-and-shoot camera in the digital macro mode. It's amazing what nice pictures they takes you don't need a big expensive fancy camera unless you want to impress your friends then by all means go for it. Because a big expensive lens can really do phenomenal to but they're so damn pricey versus an inexpensive digital camera that has a digital macro mode

then I know it's out newbies budget but a timing machine would be really nice so we can see what it's doing versus guessing. Something to think about for the future timing machine it be helpful

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4 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

usually the best way to tell if you're having a hairspring issue is if you get us a picture of the hairspring in the watch. Often times it's hard to tell out of the watch because years of the problem is only in the watch. Out of the watch they hairspring might not be quite right but it's much easier to see in the watch. like for instance if it's bent at the stud it's almost impossible to see out of watch.

Then my imagination is running wild as I think I see? It might be a shadow it may be we need a much better picture because I just can't tell. Then you don't necessarily need an expensive fancy camera I usually take all my close-up pictures with a Canon point-and-shoot camera in the digital macro mode. It's amazing what nice pictures they takes you don't need a big expensive fancy camera unless you want to impress your friends then by all means go for it. Because a big expensive lens can really do phenomenal to but they're so damn pricey versus an inexpensive digital camera that has a digital macro mode

then I know it's out newbies budget but a timing machine would be really nice so we can see what it's doing versus guessing. Something to think about for the future timing machine it be helpful

Thanks John. This was something i was working on over 2 months ago before i decided to have a good rest from it all due to some mind health issues. It was already stripped down otherwise i would have posted some tg readings before starting work on it.  Its main problem in the watch was its coming to a stop at dial up. Pretty  sure I've found that issue now, the staff top pivot and around the collet had some very dried up oil around those areas especially the pivot so that issue may be solved now after a good clean up. My question of "what is wrong with this hairspring ?" was my thoughts of it not having a good start for the end curve. I wanted to improve on what was there and create a bend and then form a nice curve to suit the regulator path. Maybe not needed but i felt in needed to jump straight back in with something a little tricky and see how i got on with some hs manipulation. I like to pose questions even if i already have an idea of what the problem is and can fix it myself. I think it helps beginners as well as myself to learn to identify issues, kind of a running, discussing, fixing walkthrough if you will. I used to do this with carpenter apprentises i employed, instead of just telling them how to get over something, guide them along and let them lead fixing the issue themselves. This i can do here as well along with help from anyone that wants to chip in with their ideas and knowledge such as yourself John. The beginners learn, i learn, folk jump in and help, i think it creates a nice environment for us all and keeps any thoughts of illrest at bay. Its good to talk and all get on. 🙂 . Thank you for the info with the camera John, i use my phone for pictures for convenience for uploading post pictures, its just a cheap samsung galaxy A12 the macro setting usually works ok but some of these came out a little grainy . The last ones i took through my scope eyepiece, a bit tricky to position the phone and get centered but i thought came out not too bad. I do have another issue to fix with this one. A locating pin on the setting lever has sheared off so next job as long as everthing else is ok is to solder another pin back in. I'd be greatful for any help or advice you can give me with this John. 

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
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8 hours ago, mikepilk said:

It seems a bit odd to have such a long terminal curve, then the offset at the end. But, maybe there's nothing wrong and that is how it should be?  It doesn't look bad sat on the balance cock

the problem is in watchmaking is that there can be so many variations on hairsprings. For instance here's a picture of a hairspring that somebody sent to me notice the long terminal curve. the person who said to me is concerned of problems and it does look like it comes in a little to close at the very end. But once again I told the person I prefer to see it in the watch because otherwise it looks fine. But you can't tell this way if the hairspring is going to be centered just a lot of things you can't tell when hairsprings out of the watch unless a course it's been dramatically bent up which also can occur.

then not only are pictures nice when it's in the watch but if you had a video because if it's bent at the collet hard to tell a picture like this. 

hairspring good or bad.JPG

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8 hours ago, mikepilk said:

It seems a bit odd to have such a long terminal curve, then the offset at the end. But, maybe there's nothing wrong and that is how it should be?  It doesn't look bad sat on the balance cock

Yes i thought the same, i started it at the same point where last curve was pulling away. I may take out the end at the stud depending how it follows the regulator and how it runs.  It was more of an experiment than anything and really to see how i would fair after doing nothing for a long time. 

1 hour ago, JohnR725 said:

the problem is in watchmaking is that there can be so many variations on hairsprings. For instance here's a picture of a hairspring that somebody sent to me notice the long terminal curve. the person who said to me is concerned of problems and it does look like it comes in a little to close at the very end. But once again I told the person I prefer to see it in the watch because otherwise it looks fine. But you can't tell this way if the hairspring is going to be centered just a lot of things you can't tell when hairsprings out of the watch unless a course it's been dramatically bent up which also can occur.

then not only are pictures nice when it's in the watch but if you had a video because if it's bent at the collet hard to tell a picture like this. 

hairspring good or bad.JPG

Just a tad off center. The end curve. bend was a guess so I'm chuffed

20220616_215135.jpg

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