Jump to content

ETA 2892A2 with GMT and Power Reserve Meter


Recommended Posts

For a long time now, I've wanted to try my hands on an ETA 2892. I even got myself a used Horotec oscillating weight bolt tool in preparation for it, in case I would need to replace the rotor bearing. Also, for a long time, I've wanted to try my hands on a movement with a power reserve meter. I have no idea about how a power reserve meter complication is implemented and have been trying to figure it out, but my ideas always ended up in a blind alley.

Anyway, I just spotted this watch on eBay housing an ETA 2892A2 having both a power reserve meter and a GMT complication for what seems to be a reasonable price. However, I'm sort of worried that I might mess up or won't be able to handle the power reserve meter complication as I have zero knowledge about how it works.

So far I've successfully overhauled quite a few watches but the most advanced complication so far has just been day and date calendars and no chronograph. So any advice or info about power reserve meter complications would be very much appreciated!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

46 minutes ago, VWatchie said:

So any advice or info about power reserve meter complications would be very much appreciated!

In principle you need a gear train that is connected to the barrel wheel as well as to the ratchet wheel. Turning the ratchet wheel lets the indicator hand move up and turning the barrel wheel lets it go down. What you want to be indicated is the „differential“ between ratchet and barrel rotations. Often a so called „differential gear“ does the job. It looks like a differential in a car drive train. But it‘s important to know that there are several very different setups for this differential function.

https://loupiosity.com/2013/12/uncomplicate-complications-power-reserve/

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

37 minutes ago, Kalanag said:

But it‘s important to know that there are several very different setups for this differential function.

https://loupiosity.com/2013/12/uncomplicate-complications-power-reserve/

Interesting! So, in the article that you link to, two different systems are explained, the "Differential gear" and the "Differential screw" systems. It would be really interesting to know what system would be found in the ETA 2892A2 that I linked to in my previous post.

I believe the GMT and Power Reserve indicator complications have been added to the movement by someone else than ETA as I couldn't find any documents for this movement having these complications on ETA's website!? This document is the closest I got: https://shopb2b.eta.ch/technicaldocuments/index/pdf/id/1621/ but it only has hours, minutes, central second, and date.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Moved in. Now working out the best place to have things so moving around the room makes sense. The wooden movement testing rig may end up being suspended from the roof with some pulleys and ropes that I salvaged from some alfresco blinds that we replaced. I always seem to salvage things from things we scrap thinking, "I have an idea what I can use these for." I hope I'm not the only one that does that. My wife hates me for it. "What are you going to do with all this crap?" Anyway, here you go. If anyone has suggestions for workflow around a room, speak up. All Ideas are appreciated. The bench on wheels will carry either a laptop or my Samsung table for using with the little camera that is on the tripod for photos while dismantling etc. The small bar fridge in the corners going to have water etc in it and I might move the coffee maker from the kitchen out there as I am the only one that uses it. I want to get an ultrasonic cleaner so I may set up some sort of cleaning rig in front of the glass of the sliding door. Where the grandmother clock is currently standing. I'm hoping that I will be able to transition my working area, which is the table that the stool is sitting in front of, fairly easily between clocks and watches. I'll be doing my best to make sure that tools for each are separatedwhen stored. Logistics. I'll have a bit of wall space for being able to hang clocks if I find some that I wish to keep or hopefully at some time to be able to hang customer clocks for monitoring after servicing/repairs. The clock on the left in the blue pillow slip and the grandmother clock are earmarked for  Jarryd and his wife, Sara. He helped me move the benches in today. And then went on to tell me that ticking clocks drive him nuts. Who doesn't like the rhythmic ticking of a clock? I have a green pad for adding to the bench for a working surface. It is not a cutting mat or one of the Bergeon mats. It is actually a green desk writing mat. Was really cheap and will do exactly what I want, I think. I also have to get the sparkies back that put our new stove in to put some power points on the walls behind the benches. Hopefully this is all going to go well. I'm excited about it. It'll beat having to live out in the garage doing it. The other thing I have to do is cut a circle or square of plastic to go over the bouncing watch or clock part black hole in the middle of the floor. I would pretty much guarantee that anything that sproings off the bench would end up going straight down that drain. 😄      I think I have been on this forum about 4 years and still yet to really strike a blow. That's a bit sad isn't it. Signed up to Mark's watch course and have yet to buy the movement for working on. Have most of the tools I think I will need so now all just a matter of will.  
    • So leave off the seconds. Stand the movement on its edge, its the dial edge that rests on the pad ( either rubber or cork , something that wont slip ). Use a finger of your left hand to hold the movement upright,  right hand presses the release and flicks out the stem. I do it this way so i can see what I'm under a microscope. But you could hold the movement between two fingers of your left hand, its the right that has to manipulate the stem out by pushing the release and flicking out the stem with  right ring finger nail. Sounds more complicated than it actually is. I guess you could fix a push pin to something solid, then all you need to do is push the release against the pin, leaving your right hand completely free to pull the stem out.
    • Try putting everything back together and closing the back cover. I think one of the two springs has to contact the metal casing to ground the casing. So when you press the button, it will touch the contact on circuit board and close the circuit.
    • Yes, the seconds hand is the longest and goes almost to the edge of the dial. I can’t quite picture it how you do it on the rubber pad
    • A don't think so it leaked or damaged it because the watch itself works it just the buttons ain't working not connecting with the circuit board have taken more pictures of where the buttons makes contact with the circuit board.
×
×
  • Create New...