Jump to content

6138B bushing question


Recommended Posts

I hope you could help me, as I didn’t find any answer anywhere. I used this forum at large for a million question I had and found a million answers, thank you all for that! And mostly thank you Mark Lovick for the courses and the forum!

I recently finished the revival of a Seiko Jumbo with a 6138B movement. One of the bushing of the chronograph bridge, used for the intermediate minute recording wheel, is in aluminum (or so I think) and seems to be broken, ie the hole is elongated on the wheel side and has a metal protrusion on the other side. There is play of the pivot in the bushing when pushed manually, but during operation all stay in place and operation is normal.

my question is: do I have to change this bushing, and if yes, is it doable just the bushing? The entire plate is around 50$ on the bay. I do not have a lathe, and bushings are not to be found as such…

sorry for the quality of the pictures, is an iPhone through my microscope, I did my best…

Thank you 

 

 

764FD9E1-E83A-4E43-B315-E44E10953459.jpeg

44B7EAED-F532-4AC8-9315-29411D4062F1.jpeg

BB414C2A-A37E-4B6E-9A83-10C50D67D1A2.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most likely what happened in the past is the bridge was forced down but the pivot wasn't quite in the hole, and the pivot punched a new one that bled into the old one. From the top it looks like the remaining original hole is holding it ok, does it slop around as far as the slot shows on the bottom? If it's centering in the old hole and is totally free (this will often close the old hole at the top), and the chrono functions ok, I say leave it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, nickelsilver said:

Most likely what happened in the past is the bridge was forced down but the pivot wasn't quite in the hole, and the pivot punched a new one that bled into the old one. From the top it looks like the remaining original hole is holding it ok, does it slop around as far as the slot shows on the bottom? If it's centering in the old hole and is totally free (this will often close the old hole at the top), and the chrono functions ok, I say leave it.

Thank you, nickelsilver, much appreciated!

the original hole is ok, the pivot is free, it is sloping around when pushed with a tweezer, but replaces itself in the original hole. It stays in the hole even when the chronograph is on and minute counting is true and working well. For the last week I wore the watch every day and all keeps the same. I think I will let it be as such for now.

What about changing the bushing, is it doable? Just another thing to learn in the future… and where to find such bushings?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can definitely change it, and it would be the proper solution. But you won't find a commercial one, or a spare part from Seiko. Maybe a jewel would fit but likely too thick. It's an easy and satisfying lathe job, hold off till you get a lathe!

 

There's almost force there, if it's working, and it's yours, enjoy it. When you make a bushing for it you'll like it more!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

About the force, the history of this watch, at least the one that I know, is something… I posted it in the achievements section, it is really an achievement for me! I learned a lot with this watch or to be able to resuscitate it! And I realized the chance i had with a well preserved watch to be able to have it back to life like I did! All the parts were in good shape, except the crystal, stem and the balance staff (my fault for the latter). So, there should be some Force involved!

Thanks again for your advice!

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I think we've talked about this before, using a new mainspring to initially overcome the effects of more movement friction than there should be. The aim is to reduce all going friction not to push through the friction with more torque, that in the long run will create more wear.
    • Sensible precautions @rjenkinsgb. I remember as a lad, my mate's dad ran a garage. I can clearly remember watching him change break pads. He used an airline to blow the dust out, (when pads used asbestos), and  we used to practically bathe in "carbon tet". But then he did smoke about 40 cigs a day. Makes me shudder to think about it.
    • OK, a little bit more from today's lecture about the main springs. Generally, the spring in the barrel is limited and can't  unwind fully. With the blue line is shown the reserve/torque relation when spring unwinding is limited by the barrel. The green line represents the same when the spring is free to unwind fully And the red line shows the minimum torque that is needed for the movement to keep running. The yelow graph shows how the torque changes (from the blue) when the spring gets weaker (set) after 100 years of work. The purple line represents thinner and longer spring in the same barrel. As You can see, using thinner and longer spring will increase the power reserve. The 'set' spring will have the same reserve as a new one with the same sizes, only the amplitude will be just a little smaller.  Of course, this is true only when the movement othervice is in good health ( the red line is lo enough)
    • As long as you don't grind the stuff up and blow it around, you should be fine. Use a dust mask if in doubt.   The things I'm very careful of are: Radium lume - even the stuff that is visually completely dead and inert is still highly radioactive; it's the fluorescent part that decays, not the radium. A single speck inhaled or ingested can cause cancer, so store parts in zip bags and wear a dust mask & wipe your work area down after handling anything that uses it. A proper geiger counter is a good investment if you plan on working with vintage watches, so you can check for it & take appropriate precautions.   "One dip" & equivalents - the original type & the generic PERC dry cleaning fluid (Tetrachloroethylene / perchloroethylene) which is what the original one dip was mostly made of. That's toxic, a known carcinogen. Use in very good ventilation only & keep it sealed whenever possible.   The newer B-Dip is presumably a safer replacement.  
    • Only 137% !  sounds like you're not putting enough effort in 😆.  I would think of it like cogs on pushbike.  Fastest speed to the spindle would be largest pulley wheel on the drive and smallest pulley wheel on the driven. If the motor was into a sliding bed you would have 3x4 ? Speeds.
×
×
  • Create New...