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Offcenter hairspring


mooredan

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15 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

Then I've attached a picture always hard to tell with over coils you have to look at them from multiple angles and this angle doesn't look good. Notice where circled it looks like it's touching the top of the bridge if it is that's why you're running fast. Also look like your stud was up may be a little bit if you lowered at her hair down then this problem might actually go away.

The hairspring is not touching the balance cock:

However, in taking a closer look at things, I may be on to something.  I let down the main spring and manually rotated the balance 180+ degrees in either direction and notice that it not always returned to center, on either side of the jewel.  It appears that the pallet fork's guard pin is rubbing against the edge of the roller table.   Also under higher magnification, I see that I could have done a better job in cleaning in this area.

Aside: I have tell you that setting up these shots is a PITA, but satisfying once everything is aligned, in frame and focus.  However, we have it made at work:

IMG_2909.thumb.jpg.8b4f8b2350a58c844043fc626b407d58.jpg

 

In case you don't know what you're looking at, this a portion of a multi-GHz RF integrated circuit seen in the lower right. The whole chip is about 8mm on a side.  The larger octagon looking things are inductors.

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9 minutes ago, mooredan said:

It appears that the pallet fork's guard pin is rubbing against the edge of the roller table.

Here's where it came to rest (but not always - sometimes it comes to rest on the other side of the notch)  Note that the roller table notch is to the right of the vertical guard pin.

 

IMG_3068.thumb.jpg.cfdb23835a2c005ea8f1ad95a2408804.jpg

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21 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

With a locating pin missing, I am not sure if the holes are aligned, are you?   

I'm convinced now. These locating pins are threaded, but the hole with the missing one has its threads stripped.  I did retrieve a pin from a scrap movement, cleaned out the stripped threads on the pallet bridge, and did a "loose" fit. i.e. the pin is just sitting in both side and I made sure that the bridge is lying flat with the main frame.  

To look at the alignment, installed the pallet bridge without the pallet fork and backlit.  Looking at it straight down.

IMG_3070.thumb.jpg.780ab616be1852ad6ee7f01cf3903622.jpg

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2 hours ago, mooredan said:

I let down the main spring and manually rotated the balance 180+ degrees in either direction and notice that it not always returned to center, on either side of the jewel.  It appears that the pallet fork's guard pin is rubbing against the edge of the roller table. 

One of the things you have to be careful about by doing this is you're looking at one end of the pallet fork what is the other end doing? If the other side like one of the jewels is touching the escape wheel that screws up where things are.

Then I assume you're doing your escapement checks are you not? Oh once in escapement check did you check your banking pins to make sure there where there supposed to be? Then did you check your garden pin clearance make sure that's where it's supposed to be? It's not like this is an American pocket watch were people like to play with those and end up with the banking pins were not supposed to be. Oh wait's is an American pocket watch and yes they do like to play with those things and yes that does screw up things. Which is why you have to do your escapement checks?

 

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4 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

Then I assume you're doing your escapement checks are you not?

I've done some checks, probably not all of them -- time to hit the books....

I have read, and heard, don't mess with the banking pins. I personally haven't messed with them (yet). 

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Since it appeared that the pallet fork's guard pin was rubbing against the roller table, I performed an experiment. I replaced the pallet fork with one from a scrap movement (same grade, class, model).  Actually, I was a bit suspicious as if this was the correct fork at all and posed this question in parallel to this thread:

 

Since I had it apart, I cleaned things up again and gave adjusting the beat error as well. I know, changing too many things at once can add confusion as to what really changed what.

This cleared things up (DD):

IMG_3095.thumb.jpg.179ddf0e1bd1a33c767548fe06a05b9f.jpg

I did check the guard pin on the original pallet fork. It appears to be upright and square.  Maybe giving the guard pin a slight bend may have had the same result.

Not too bad for a low end (seven jewel) 110 year old pocket watch that wasn't running and obviously had been through a bunch of other hands along the way?  I'm calling this one done as I have half a dozen other movements in various states of condition (all pretty much not running) to look at, enjoy, and learn from.

My intention for these are to get them running well enough, and get them looking well enough, so that I can give them out as gifts.  Most likely they'll go into a curio cabinet and only get wound a few times in the remainder of their lives.

Thanks for your help!

Dan

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5 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

re you the product engineer, or the designer?  Or, test engineer?

I have filled almost every role when in comes to ASIC design.  My primary engineering function is that of mixed signal verification, but do some design here and there.  For this particular design, where I did the pre-silicon verification, I'm also responsible for the post-silicon validation effort in the lab. https://www.linkedin.com/in/danlmoore/

  

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2 minutes ago, mooredan said:

I have filled almost every role when in comes to ASIC design.  My primary engineering function is that of mixed signal verification, but do some design here and there.  For this particular design, where I did the pre-silicon verification, I'm also responsible for the post-silicon validation effort in the lab. https://www.linkedin.com/in/danlmoore/

  

I spent 40 years in the semiconductor industry.  Still do a little consulting now and then.  Any chance you knew Andy Goris while at HP?

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