Jump to content

Workbench build - Measurements

sczo
 Share

Recommended Posts

sczo New Member

sczo

Posted
Posted

Building a workbench based on the IKEA Skarsta/Trotten frame. Replacing the current tabletop with another that i have routed so that armrests can be mounted and a good ergonomic working position is achieved.

Looking for measurements on current setups as marked in the picture. Any help is much appreciated but preferably either measurement 1, 2 & A or 1, 2 & B.

Have had no luck trying to find these measurements online.

Thank you!

watchmaker table.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Klassiker Distinguished Member

Klassiker

Posted
Posted

I just made myself a table-top mounting work surface, because it was simpler and cheaper than routeing a table top and suspending the armrests, but the dimensions will be the same. I took them from a professional desk.

1 = 280mm

2 = 120mm (the width of your armrests)

B = 300mm (the length of your armrests)

If you want some photos showing how the armrests are mounted on a pro set-up, let me know

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
sczo New Member

sczo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, Klassiker said:

I just made myself a table-top mounting work surface, because it was simpler and cheaper than routeing a table top and suspending the armrests, but the dimensions will be the same. I took them from a professional desk.

1 = 280mm

2 = 120mm (the width of your armrests)

B = 300mm (the length of your armrests)

If you want some photos showing how the armrests are mounted on a pro set-up, let me know

Thank you. Pictures are most welcome!

42 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Have you some piccys of the bench you made.   cheers

Can't see any pictures.

Best regards,
sczo

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Klassiker Distinguished Member

Klassiker

Posted
Posted

Pictures of the top and underside of my home-made table-top work area. The pads are covered in chamois leather from the DIY supermarket. Everything else was scraps I had lying around. The work surface ended up 55mm higher than the level of the main bench top, and is 270mm by 400mm in area. The slope of the armrests is not adjustable, and might be too shallow for some, but works fine for me.

DSC02986.thumb.JPG.194e4a2ce26bca97626510edefe2886c.JPG

DSC02987.thumb.JPG.33384bd3b4aef9948eed0daad09d275a.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Mallard
      Vintage pocket watches from e-bay (winding stems needed)

      By Mallard · Posted

      Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Waggy
      2813

      By Waggy · Posted

      Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Murks
      2813

      By Murks · Posted

      Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
    • Waggy
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Waggy · Posted

      Maybe I'm over simplifying this and I'm a little late to the discussion, but just by my looking at oil when I use it on a treated cap jewel  the oil stays in one nice bubble, but when I don't it spreads out to the edges of the jewel. I'm not sure (but could well be wrong) but the analogy of a waxed car and rain is accurate in this case, the wax is very hydrophobic and repels the water, however, the process epilame works by is a different physical process based upon cohesion/adhesion (oleophilic) not repulsion (oleophobic)  at least as far as I have read/observed. If one were to use a oleophobic substance equivalent to wax (hydrophobic) then one would need to create a donut shape to fence in the oil, however if one used such a strategy with a epilame which is oleophilic then the oil would sit on the ring of the donut and not in the 'donut hole', exactly where you don't want it. Even if the oil is smeared then the oleophilic epilame should pull it back to the center (see diagram below). Reference For interest the chemical in epilame is 2-(PERFLUOROHEXYL) ETHYL METHACRYLATE, CAS NO: 2144-53-8
    • Waggy
      Dg 2813

      By Waggy · Posted

      Looks lint the teeth on the hour wheel aren't meshing with the teeth on the calendar intermediate wheel, maybe the hour wheel is sitting on top of this instead of meshing?        
×
×
  • Create New...