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Posted

I am about to start servicing this vintage ladies watch.  Before doing this I want to know what I am up against.

I cannot find this on any database by searching "Gubelin"

The rachet/click system is something I have not seen before.

2022-01-06 08_50_01-IMG_7770.JPG ‎- Photos.png

Posted

 Gubelin owned several brands, among which  Damas   and   Galo  were populare in my neck of the woods, not all their watches were powered by in-house movement. 

Posted

 

17 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I cannot find this on any database by searching "Gubelin"

Because Gübelin was (and still is) a "casing company", oriented to jewelry, that never made mov.ts. That wanted and paid their supplier to stamped their name on them. Very common in the watch industry, back then and now.

 

16 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I am doing a visual search through the ranfft database.  I am in the "h"s now and still have not seen this movement.

Browsing Ranfft by brute force is frustrating. First, fill all the possible fields in "advanced" , starting with the size (in lignes) in the "search string" field". In this case that returns the variations of say 10 base movement. The one that should be it it's the Eterna 616. The customer may have requested a better, higher execution with modified bridges (that is to make it appear proprietary) which is not the database.

Eterna_616.jpg.429d324a713f1d87e31ad55f67498a6e.jpg

The other way is to look at the dial side, setting lever and use a Bestfit book, available on this forum. That is what at professionals did back then, and still do now.

 

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Posted

Well, this was quite a project!!  Must have been many years since it was serviced.  I noticed when taking it apart, several wheels were stuck--3rd wheel in particular.  After cleaning the usual way (L&R ammonia base fine watch cleaner), I noticed that the jewels had a lot of crud on them.  I had to clean them under a microscope using peg wood.  It was terrible.  Then I noticed some junk on the third wheel bottom pivot.  Frankly I wanted to just move on (the owner will were this once in a while at parties--does not have to be a time keeper).  But my Dad was whispering in my ear and everyone on this forum was screaming at me!!  DO IT RIGHT!  So, at great risk (due to my inexperience), I chucked the wheel up in the lathe and burnished the pivot with a pivot polisher (that came with my Jacot set).  I cleaned it up and nothing bad happened.

Repeated on another wheel with success.

No shortcuts on the balance either.  I removed the hairspring, cap jewel and regulator.  Cleaned and oiled and back together.

Assembly was tricky with this tiny watch.  The pallet fork plate fought hard.  I had earlier noticed little nick marks all over the pallet plate.  Now I know why!

Got the dial on, set the hands and DAMN!!  Cannon pinion was loose.  Yet another opportunity to fail.  I had bought the cannon pinion punch and stake for my Seitz jeweling tool so now was the time to use it.  Two tries before it was tight.

Lastly, I regulated the watch and noticed that the hairspring was never leaving the regulator pin, so I had to give it a slight nudge.  That seemed to improve the beat considerably--have not tried to think that trough as to whether it makes sense.

The watch is together and I am heading for the liquor cabinet!!!

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