Janta / Pearl Watch Cleaning Machine

[Waggy]

Just arrived, so will let you know in a day or two when I can get the boy to fire up his printer

 

[Waggy]

The tech docs state the nozzle temperature is 240 Max, when we tried this on a test sample we got de-lamination, so my son tried to increase in steps from 240, 250 and 260.... this resulted in exceeding the working temperature of his print head. So, I'm now on the hook for a new high spec fandangled 300 C rated print head for his printer. This watch stuff is an expensive sport!

[gpraceman]

17 hours ago, Waggy said:

The tech docs state the nozzle temperature is 240 Max, when we tried this on a test sample we got de-lamination, so my son tried to increase in steps from 240, 250 and 260.... this resulted in exceeding the working temperature of his print head. So, I'm now on the hook for a new high spec fandangled 300 C rated print head for his printer. This watch stuff is an expensive sport!

Which printer is it?  I just need to get a bi-mental heat break for my printer (Ender 3 Pro).  The original heat break let the PTFE tube be too close to the nozzle, which is a problem at higher nozzle temps.

[Waggy]

28 minutes ago, gpraceman said:

Which printer is it?  I just need to get a bi-mental heat break for my printer (Ender 3 Pro).  The original heat break let the PTFE tube be too close to the nozzle, which is a problem at higher nozzle temps.

This is my sons printer, so not exactly sure of the model and I know he has done a ton of mods to it. But I remember him saying that I was now on the hook to get him a heat break (I think he mentioned titanium in the context of its conductivity?) and new injection head that could handle 300 oC

Here is the screen from his new high temperature set up... I can see from this it is an Ender3 and he can now get up to 297 C

[Trey]

I printed mine, using PETG under 240c, that's enough though. fyi

[Waggy]

19 hours ago, Trey said:

I printed mine, using PETG under 240c, that's enough though. fyi

What solutions do you use them in? Also how does it hold up to drying temperature?

[Trey]

On 5/7/2023 at 2:21 AM, Waggy said:

What solutions do you use them in? Also how does it hold up to drying temperature?

I use water-based solution and IPA, the drying temperature can uphold around 70 celecious, most of time it take really fast to dry up parts (20 secs).

[MNGrayBeard]

I recently acquired a Marshall PEERLESS in very good condition without jars. It appears the Pearl/Janta jars will likely fit. Can someone provide info on a source for these jars? Thank you!

[jimzzilla]

Janta jar dimensions.... 3 3/4" X 3 3/4" square X 6 3/8" Tall.  Inside mouth diameter is 3 3/16"

I do not know if Janta will sell them, they can be hard to deal with and the gaskets in the lids

do not completely seal so there is odor and evaporation. The gasket stops about 3/4" from touching

itself. I used plumbers 3" test caps for the lids.

Edited May 26, 2023 by jimzzilla
Add Text

[Waggy]

I have a pearl machine and use these Ball jars:

Make sure you get the 'wide mouth'" version and not the standard version.

As you can see from the below they fit well on the machine:

A little tighter on the jar opening, but still goes in no problem with room to spare:

Substitute Ball jar on the left and original Pearl jar on the right:

Also as you can see from my pictures I took @jimzzillareccommendation and use the plumbers 3" test caps which fit the pearl and Ball jars.

Hope this helps

 

[jimzzilla]

17 minutes ago, Waggy said:

I have a pearl machine and use these Ball jars:

Make sure you get the 'wide mouth'" version and not the standard version.

As you can see from the below they fit well on the machine:

A little tighter on the jar opening, but still goes in no problem with room to spare:

Substitute Ball jar on the left and original Pearl jar on the right:

Also as you can see from my pictures I took @jimzzillareccommendation and use the plumbers 3" test caps which fit the pearl and Ball jars.

Hope this helps

 

Very nice, you are a wise man Waggy!.......

Edited May 26, 2023 by jimzzilla

[Waggy]

Has anyone removed the basket lid that is attached to the shaft on the Pearl machine, I took off the bolt in the side, but it was still held on - maybe friction??

Before I get to physical with my machine and damage it, can anyone let me know the correct way to do it, thanks

 

 

 

 

[muddtt]

7 minutes ago, Waggy said:

Has anyone removed the basket lid that is attached to the shaft on the Pearl machine, I took off the bolt in the side, but it was still held on - maybe friction??

Before I get to physical with my machine and damage it, can anyone let me know the correct way to do it, thanks

 

 

 

 

You need to take off the screw at the end of the shaft as well. There’s one that goes into the rod. 

[Waggy]

3 minutes ago, muddtt said:

You need to take off the screw at the end of the shaft as well. There’s one that goes into the rod. 

Thanks, you probably just saved me $$$$$

[MikeWishart]

I have a Janta Pearl machine too.  Changes I've made/making:

• Added a main switch and replaced the power cord with a grounded plug.  Grounded to the case.
• Remove the spring.  I may put it back but shorter.  Just long enough so the head won't drop on the glass bottles.
• I really like the 3" plumbing plug idea for bottle caps.  I grabbed those when I saw it.
• Replace the all the tape with soldered connections and heat shrink.
• Ordered the automatic relay switch today from Grainger.  The version mentioned above by @jimzzilla isn't available currently, so I got 21EW91 which just has a finer resolution, only goes to 102.4 seconds rather than 1024 seconds and DPDT switch 4X850.
• Perhaps replace the two chocolate bar (aka euro style) blocks with screw terminal blocks.

Really happy with all the suggestions to fix it up.  Thanks to the group!

[MrMacca]

On 9/22/2022 at 4:59 PM, jimzzilla said:

I think everything In the drive line of this machine is a little off. The basket looks off as well.

I herd Elma baskets fit this unit as well? I wonder if that would be any better? and i wonder if a slightly slower

spin cycle rpm makes for less sloshing?

I want to get to the bottom of this problem, I can't wait to get the parts in and start working on the shaft and then go from there to to the next problem and get things resolved.

Is anyone using wavebreakers in their jars to reduce cavitation? I purchased some for mine and are not cheap

but it was recommended to a watchmaker friend of mine to get them. I do not know how much they help as I haven't used mine yet, and make sure you bend them to fit tightly in the jar or the basket will grab one and lock up the machine.

 

 

Wavebreaker / Breakwater For Elma Super-Elite Cleaning Machine - HZC5115

Are you able to post the dimensions of the wave breakers? I'd love to make my own as it feels like spending €90+ on getting enough for my machine is excessive.

[gpraceman]

For wave breakers, I made my own from stainless steel mesh pretty cheaply for my DIY cleaner.  Used some tin snips to cut them to size.  They look to be doing the trick and are holding up to the cleaning solution and rinses.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BMTY6KH4/

 

Edited November 17, 2023 by gpraceman

[jimzzilla]

12 hours ago, MrMacca said:

Are you able to post the dimensions of the wave breakers? I'd love to make my own as it feels like spending €90+ on getting enough for my machine is excessive.

As per your request.

The last picture shows the odd way it has to be bent, good luck. best regards, James.

 

 

[Waggy]

On 11/18/2023 at 3:09 AM, jimzzilla said:

The last picture shows the odd way it has to be bent, good luck. best regards, James.

How thick is it?

[jimzzilla]

About this thick.....   Looks like it is made of stainless steel.

[LittleWatchShop]

I am refurbishing an L&R that I got on eBay. This one has something I had never seen before. The wave breaker was mounted on the motor.

[watchweasol]

Hi. I have a British made one National. Made in Manchester that has them mounted on the motor plate also.

[jimzzilla]

Interesting!.

[MikeWishart]

I finally got around to taking photos of my changes.

Full setup.

For baffles in the jars, I went the L&R route.

I did a 4-wire variant of the original circuit.  It does have a minor drawback where switching to "forward" while the red light is on will pass current through both windings for a few seconds which isn't so good for the motor.  Creative soldering is required to get 2 wires on each spade connector.  This is the 21EW91 switch set for 5 second intervals.

Plenty of room for the motor with the right-angle connectors.  3D printed TPU grommet.

I managed to relocate the LED so I can see it from the front.  Potted circuits are a pain!

 

Master switch and fuse.  Also a 3-wire cord that properly grounds the body, plus the really good jar seals. 

I hope the helps someone out.

[MrMacca]

I just wanted to add to this goldmine of information as it has been really helpful for me. I've had my machine for a few weeks and was having trouble with foaming, related to the fact I'm using Elma Red 1:9 (water based cleaning fluid) and the fact that the rheostat isn't particularly sensitive on my machine (Pearl). 

I bought the same (overpriced) wave breakers as this chap. They're very flimsy stainless (I hope) steel and it was a bit fiddly to get them into the cleaning jar without bending them out of shape but they're a game changer on 2 fronts:

1. No more foam, whatsoever. The reduction of the amount of foam means I can now spin off the excess fluid without creating a foamy mess and in my view, as I'm not spinning the parts in foam, the quality of the clean is better. 

2. Rheostat works better. The baffles/wavebreakers create more resistance in the fluid meaning the rheostat works as it should, allowing me to control speed in the fluid from very slow to very fast. Of course, the motor still spins like a maniac on meth when it's out of the fluid but there's very little I can do about that.