Jump to content

face nut on clock loose

conrail

By conrail
in All Things Clocks

 Share

Recommended Posts

conrail New Member

conrail

Posted
Posted

wife and myself were given a gift of a WIDDOP carriage clock, when I went to change the battery I found the battery compartment loose resulting in the battery holder and the clock hands moving freely, I have noticed the nut on the clock face holding the battery compartment in place is loose, it is on the spindle, behind the pointers, unfortunately I cannot find out how to access the nut or clock face as I cannot see without using force, how to open the case, I did contact Widdop and the young lady was prompt with her reply promising to find out for me but that was well over a week ago, can anybody here help please on how to access the clock face so I can tighten the nut, all help and advice appreciated, thanks

20210813_115108.jpg

20210813_115124.jpg

watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

Hi and welcome to the forum.  Can you post some pictures of the front and rear of the case as some of these clocks you remove the felt base cover to reveal the screws in the case, others are snap together cases. What is the case made of metal or plastic. There is some danger in splitting the case on plastic ones due to their construction.

  • Thanks 1
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

Can you show me the complete case and are there any feet to the case. Normally with case feet felt might cover the screw heads. in which case you unscrew the screws and the whole movement will slide out, you can then tighten the the nut and replace. Make sure the hands are both pointing to 12 that makes sure the hands will be at their correct position. 

  • Thanks 1
conrail New Member

conrail

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thank you watchweasol and oldhippy, here are pictures of the case, as you can see on the one marked 'side', last picture, where the arrow points to, it looks like it may slide but have tried and it wont move, don't want to put too much pressure on it, only felt part is the back, the rest appears all glass, appreciate your help here

20210820_154631.jpg

20210820_154648.jpg

20210820_154719.jpg

20210820_154742.jpg

20210820_154827.jpg

20210820_154844.jpg

20210820_155032.jpg

watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

Hi Given the fact there seems to be no screws holding it all together it must be glued and as OH has pointed out the back must come off but be very careful sliding a knife in to the crack and do not force anything.

  • Thanks 1
conrail New Member

conrail

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thank you watchweasol and oldhippy, I will have a look, I have a couple of modellers scalpels I will try, I wont force anything because I don't want to cause any damage

conrail New Member

conrail

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thank you watchweasol and oldhippy, spent all  morning trying to ease a craft knife, (scalpel), around the case but what ever substance they have used to seal it has me beaten, I think that not only is it sealed around the side but also to the back of the face, so thank you for your help and advice it is much appreciated, it will just have to stay as it is, 

 

conrail New Member

conrail

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thank you oldhippy, I did email them on the 12th last and got a quick reply from someone called Dorinda whi is looking into this for me but nothing since then, it wont hurt to complete the on line form so I will give that a try, again I appreciate your help and advice

conrail New Member

conrail

Posted
  • Author
Posted

just had a reply from Widdop, "
These clocks are a sealed unit so cant be opened.
If you turn the movement it will tighten just ensure the hands are lined up at 12 o clock to give an accurate time."

I will give this a try although can't see how it will tighten the nut on the clock face unless I pull the movement away from the face before tightening and hope the nut will be held in place by the pressure, I will let you know what happens when I try it.

watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

May be the face nut is fixed to the front plate, therefore when scewing the movement round it will             tighten up, the trick being to get it all lined up correctly.    good luck

  • Thanks 1
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, conrail said:

just had a reply from Widdop, "
These clocks are a sealed unit so cant be opened.
If you turn the movement it will tighten just ensure the hands are lined up at 12 o clock to give an accurate time."

 

At least you got a reply. So when the clock packs up you buy a new one. That's what they mean by living in a throwaway society. Bloody terrible.  

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
conrail New Member

conrail

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thank you watchweasol and old hippy, finally got the chance to tighten the movement and although the locking nut wasn't flush with the face it worked and tightened the movement and pointers so everything fine, I appreciate your help and advice so again many thanks

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • tonydagee
      Calendar work certina 25-651

      By tonydagee · Posted

      Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • tIB
      Unusual Seiko dial damage

      By tIB · Posted

      Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • Malocchio
      Unusual Seiko dial damage

      By Malocchio · Posted

      I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • nickelsilver
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By nickelsilver · Posted

      I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • SidKop
      Opinions on Seiko's 4R and 6R movement quality from those more able to judge

      By SidKop · Posted

      I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...