Jump to content

So What Makes A Watch A Great Watch?


Recommended Posts

After looking at the different opinions of people what do most people look for in their perfect watch? Mine personally would be a Patek Phillipe money being no concern, but exactly what is it.

 

A lot of enthusiasts look for a watch that produces their own in-house movements but then you hear certain people say "Oh it's just a common old ETA movement." I wouldn't touch it so I'm really getting a bit confused by all the jargon. Not forgetting that 85% of people still choose their watch through the shop window on looks alone.

 

So my question is "What do you look for in a watch?"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great topic choice. Patek has to be up there for me as well as RW smith, Philip Dufour or FP Journe. 

 

I like on mans vision for anything. Someone who has dedicated heart and soul into pursuing what they believe to be the ultimate they are able to make at that moment. Its more important to me than looks or materials used. 

 

But that comes after a lifetime interested in Horology and some education on what is available and by who. 

 

Like many for me My first Rolex meant more than simply a nice watch. Funnily enough its not about the name with Rolex. Its about the visions of Hans Wilsdorf and what was created from that. Long before I knew they were a famous watch brand I stared in Jewellers windows in Exeter as a child at the Day Date or Submariner in wonder and hoped one day to have a Rolex. There was something just right about the design of them for me and still is, even though they are not hand made like the watches I mention above.

 

I love the one I have for the simple reasons that it tells time well and accurately, my model, the Air King goes largely unnoticed by the general population, it does not scream ROLEX like the all gold ones do. Its comfortable and just feels really well thought out to me. I guess its heritage does boil down to one mans vision as well.

 

On another forum I belong to only this week we were talking about the snobbery this hobby can get. All of us love our cheapest watches the same as we do our most expensive ones. 

 

I think for true lovers of horology cost does not matter, its other things that do. I have yet to see a real enthusiast buy a watch on name only. Like our mutual love for Patek, I bet your the same as me, its not the name but the workmanship, history and human component in its making that matter.

 

And I thing after all that ramble for me it all boils down to that. The human connection. That a person or persons sat down and from thought to construction had a tangible effect on that which I wear in my pocket or on my wrist.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's difficult for me to answer this. Perhaps I'll start by saying that names like Rolex, Patek Phillippe, etc., aren't my main focus. The first watches I ever started to collect seriously were American railroad watches, and this happened purely by  accident when I was given an Elgin 571 "B.W. Raymond" RR grade watch:

 

Elgin%20571%201949%20face.JPG

 

Elgin%20571%201949%20movement.JPG

 

The case for this was very brassed when I got it, and the bow was a bad replacement - but I thought the movement was wonderful. I couldn't imagine that a factory-produced object could be turned out to such a standard - 21 jewels, 8 adjustments, subtle damaskeening, wonderful dial, etc. I went to the expense of having a proper bow hand-made for it, and then got the casemaker to re-gild the brassed case. And what I saw in this watch, I look for to be in my "keepers" ever since: good, practical design, good workmanship, solid, well-finished construction, no unncecessary frills, etc.

Edited by WillFly
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats a really good question,  to which there will be lots of answers as everyone has different criteria.  I remember seeing an advert from approx. the 60's where they fixed a Timex watch to a speedboats propellor, drove it around for sometime,  then removed the watch, which was still working, "Timex takes a lickin' and keeps on ticking".  How many high end makers would want to submit their watch to that sort of test?

 

It all depends what you want a watch for that would dictate choice,  but to me Rolex must be in the top 10.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Although I am a big fan of Seiko, being the patriotic type I have always yearned for something British. In the 1970's I used to own Japanese motorcycles much to the disdain of my friends (Brit bikers), my argument being when they can make something that doesn't break down every day and performs as well as a Japanese bike I'll buy one - I am on my second modern Triumph now & wouldn't buy anything else. The majority of horological innovation has come from Britain, unfourtunatley the British watch industry has been in a poor state, but now its coming back to life. Ultimate watch ? it would have to be a Bremont Supermarine & yes I know its a Swiss movement.........at the moment.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • All I do is use a fine marker (sharpie) to put the service date on the back cover, this way it can be removed with some IPA and does no permanent damage to the watch. I'm in two minds about the whole service marking thing, sometimes it's good/bad to see the markings on the watch case back as you know it's been worked on and vice versa. However, if I took my car in for a service and the mechanic scratched some code into the housing of my engine I wouldn't be too impressed. Hence, I think my sharpie solution is a reasonable compromise.
    • hmmmm.... maybe there is a way to skin that cat 🙀 let me think on it... unless anyone else has any ideas? I left the opening in the side of the base and ring quite large to maybe allow you to grip the crown, but appreciate this may not always be possible, especially for small movements where the crown will not extend past the outer wall of the holder. I noticed this also, but after using the holder for a while I noticed that the ring/holder began to wear into shape (rough edges/bumps worn off) and the size became closer to the desired movement OD. Maybe with some trial and error we could add 0.5 mm (??) to the movement OD to allow for this initial bedding-in?
    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
×
×
  • Create New...