Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey

Anyone got any pics on how the innards of the lower and upper bridge for the automatic device should look. I made the mistake of undoing to many screws trying to remove it. (i removed the screw that kept it together as well). And now i have no pics on how it should look. A few pics  below to show what i mean.

as always any pointers are appreciated.

cheers

gary

 

IMG_20210328_224042.jpg

IMG_20210328_224051.jpg

Posted

Hey

Does any one know is there a special way of rebuilding these things.When the 2 springs take up the slack everything just erupts out of place and its start again. I know how they should go in. Just cannoty get them to stay in.

cheers

gary

Posted
3 hours ago, gary17 said:

special way of rebuilding these things

Gary,

I just reassembled one of these in an AS 2063, and have done several others. I have two similar methods. I first place the bottom plate on either a small anvil or on some flattened Rodico, then put the large wheel thru so it goes into a hole in the anvil or buried into the Rodico. I add the other components so everything is level and all the teeth are engaged in the gears or click. The Rodico helps keep everything together and not able to shift around. I then place the springs into position carefully ensuring again that all the components are level so the spring tension force is horizontal and just holding the components in place. Having everything stuck to the Rodico also helps when adding the top plate so things don't move out of alignment, but if you do it on an anvil instead a tiny piece of Rodico can help keep it from slipping too. I do all the lubrication, including the spring tips, after it's assembled.

Hope this helps.

  • Like 1
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If a runner, I usually let the movement run in naphta for a minute, some movements need a bit of encouragement to run in liquids, so a quick dip of the movement in naphta then remove and encourage the oscilator with puffer, repeat several soaks.  Or if you don't want to soak or dip the movement in cleaning solution ,   keep putting naphta on jewel holes as the movement runs on bench. A pre-clean of some sort  helps.  Avoid lifting out the fork with tweezers or any tool.  Try blowing fork pivot out  with strong puff of air from jewels holes back side. Good luck .      
    • 60! Wow, that's a lot. Can't say I understand the problem because disassembly is usually quite uneventful, except for springs launching into space. Most people break pivots during assembly. I use a homemade brass pry tool to loosen parts. It's just a short length of hard brass wire sharpened to a chisel point. Don't pry at just one point and crowbar it out. Pry at the notch and when a crack opens up, slip the pry tool in and loosen it at a few more points until the bridge is free.
    • Beginner here. Of about 60 watches I’ve serviced and repaired, I’ve broken a pallet pivot on three, always during disassembly, and usually when the old oil has transformed to glue. Each watch was Swiss, in case that makes a difference. Here’s what happened in each case: - unscrewed the pallet bridge or cock - gently inserted a screwdriver in the  slot under the pallet bridge or cock - gently but firmly rotated the screwdriver, avoiding a forwards force on the screwdriver. If alignment pins stick, the cam action is alternated back and forth between back corners of the plate. - heard a small but horrible click. Is there a special tool or technique for safely lifting the pallet bridge? Should everything be soaked in naphtha before beginning disassembly if there’s any sign of old oil gluing parts together? Thanks! Rob
    • You shared this test with me a few months back on a Hamilton project and so I had checked this watch to find the pins were still equally spaced. Their screw slots were undamaged and very tight hard to move so maybe no one has messed with them before. I can't work on it much today but I did measure the fork slot again and it seems like 0.44 is the right size. I measure the jewel that had been installed at just 0.42. would an undersized too narrow impulse jewel impact the impulse drastically? I ask because I have had it at a state where flipping the fork manually with a tool would unlock some of the time, but the balance was never capable of unlocking.
    • This was what I was afraid of. The movement is not one of the generic black square modules. Remove the movement from the clock and try prying it open very carefully, without breaking the plastic tabs. The plastic might be brittle from age. Clean the wheels and check the battery contacts for corrosion. Check the PCB for bad solder joints. Take plenty of photos along the way.
×
×
  • Create New...