Jump to content

stake set for pocket watches


Recommended Posts

Hi, can someone tell me if this set has the necessary bits to 1) remove double roller tables (maybe the stump on the front right side in the middle?) and 2) remove balance wheel shafts. I am thinking of buying it but want to make sure it will suit my needs.  it's a LAMPERT Watchmakers F. R. INVERTING / STAKING SET.  thank you.

stake set.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
55 minutes ago, arron said:

Hi, can someone tell me if this set has the necessary bits to 1) remove double roller tables (maybe the stump on the front right side in the middle?) and 2) remove balance wheel shafts. I am thinking of buying it but want to make sure it will suit my needs.  it's a LAMPERT Watchmakers F. R. INVERTING / STAKING SET.  thank you.

stake set.jpg

Looks good to me.

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, arron said:

Thanks guys.  do you think $190 is a reasonable price.  it's hard for me to tell.  i see stake sets for under $100 and over $400 on ebay.

190 is a good price for sure

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Welcome to WRT  forum.  
    • Thanks for the reply! I live in the US and I do have most of the stuff I need. I do have a full set of Moebius greases and oils as well. Looking at the 1900 for a while now, so I'll probably pick that up. As I said, I have a pretty good set of tools including hand levers, Presto Tools, Bergeon Screwdrivers, Dumont tweezers, loupes and other magnifiers, movement bed, Bergeon hand oilers and pots, Bergeon movement-holder, pith and peg wood, Rodico, etc, etc, etc. I have a couple of Seagull 6498s and a Seagul 2824-2 to practice destroying....er.....assembling and reassembling.
    • The intro is like something from a tv show but the instructional parts seem to be from a live training course. I'm 5 videos in and hooked, will be watching them all, great find!
    • you left out an important detail by the way? A lot of this depends upon where you live.. One of the recommendations I like to give beginners is purchasing a brand-new 6497  Chinese clone  as the Swiss originals too expensive in the clone works just fine.. Then you definitely want a timegrapher iin the beginning there very cheap now compared to what they once cost either the Chinese 1000 or the 1900 are both excellent machines. So if you have a new timing machine  and a new watch  you can llearn how to properly time things on the machine. You can look at your brand-new watch see how it functions. Then you can taken apart  and put it back together  and put it back on the timing machine and see if it still functions. Timing machines are more than just timing their diagnostic devices. There's so many questions newbies ask where if they just a timing machine it would help narrow the problem down considerably. Does not like you can hold the watch to your four head and absorb the knowledge of its problems you need  ways of doing diagnostics. Then unfortunately magnetized watches don't run well  they will have issues. aa unfortunate problem with watch repair is that is a heck of a lot of specialty tools that sooner or later would be really nice to have.. As long a basic tools you have to have.  Then when you get in the lubrication  is some of those are nice to have an they're not exactly cheap  so this isn't exactly a really cheap hobby.  
    • The latest 404 club member.  A very new looking, but slightly broken "Sekonda Classique" branded skeletonized Chinese standard movement full hunter pocket watch. Listed as not working, spares or repair, it cost 99p plus shipping. The click spring was broken and the original movement holder is missing. The donors I have, all had had various different arrangement of barrel bridge and click spring, and none matched, so I swapped the whole lot. Barrel with mainspring, barrel bridge and click. The mechanisms are very easy to work on, and in general parts from one variant of the "Standard" movement have a good chance of fitting in another, but obviously not always. It is now running nicely, and looks quite attractive, although the over all build quality is not spectacular.
×
×
  • Create New...