Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Good evening, everyone and, hopefully, you are all well.

I have successfully stripped, cleaned, and reassembled an ETA 7750 automatic chronograph. It has superb time keeping abilities now, as shown  on my timegrapher, in four positions. Ok, that's lovely. 

Now, to the nitty gritty.

I bought a new bearing to replace the sloppy old one and, no matter how I try, the new bearing just will not go into the oscillating weight.

It is a friction fit type, not the one that uses the Bergeon tool.

Also, I got the bearing from Cousins, not China.

Now, I am wondering if there is a difference between an ETA 7750 watch and  Valjoux 7750.

If there is, that may be the answer because I just cannot keep trying to line this bearing up with the oscillating weight and tapping away at it because, to use a technicle term, 'something will go for a Burton'!

So, has anyone got any idea about how to complete this task?

I have watched Mark's video and that does not help.

I have tried warming the oscillating weight first, but it cools faster than the tax man helping himself to my earnings!

Okey-dokey, over to you.

Thanks for reading this and all the best.

Len.

 

 

 

IMG_4610.JPG

IMG_4612.JPG

Posted
2 minutes ago, Len33 said:

If there is, that may be the answer because I just cannot keep trying to line this bearing up with the oscillating weight and tapping away at it because, to use a technicle term, 'something will go for a Burton'!

Can you measure bearing and hole. A decent digital caliper will be enough. 

Posted

Good evening, JDM.

Thank you for your suggestion.

Yes I did try to do that and, although it was very difficult, I do think that there was gnats whisker larger with the new bearing.

That is why I am wondering about the two models.

Regards.

Len.

 

Posted

Yes they might be even totaly different in construction. I took a picture so you easier can see what I mean.
Newer ETA 7750 is locked in place by a shim and need a special tool.
Old Valjoux 7750 is press fitted.
These boths systems have different diameters on the bearing hole on the oscillating weight too.
So the Valjoux is smaller and will not stay in the newer oscillators hole.
The ETA has a larger diameter and will not go into the Valjoux ocillators hole.
Hope this helps.
7750.thumb.jpg.055c46407d81a1eabf03614014395515.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Thank you for this information, it helps very much.

If I have understood this correctly, it would seem that I have an ETA  7500 bearing and, for some reason, a Valjoux 7500 weight.

The bearing that I got from Cousins will not press into the weight.

The one that I removed, did.

The watch I have, is definitely a 17 jewel ETA 7500.

In your picture, the bearing on the right looks like the one I removed from 

the oscillating weight and the one on the left looks like the one I got from Cousins.

Anyway, "thanks" again for your post.

Len.

 

 

Posted

If you have the 17 Jewel you have the right oscillating weight. Since ETA took over the production they had the old equipment and drawings too. So, just looking at your oscillating weight you can see it is missing the shallow groove for the locking shim which is on the 25 jewel one.  The 17 jewel version of the 7750 is the one to the right in my picture.

The pressfitt bearing is like 2 tens of a milimeter smaller in diameter. 
Easiest way to determine if you got the right bearing is to meassure the hole you got on the oscillating weight and on the small flange on the bearing. If you look at your last picture it is the small bit peaking up you see on the bearing to the right.
If the part you got isn't completely circular but got four straight edges on the flange like it looks to be on the bearing to the left in your picture, then you for sure know it is the wrong bearing, that one is for the 25 Jewel one.

Posted
1 hour ago, HSL said:

If you have the 17 Jewel you have the right oscillating weight. Since ETA took over the production they had the old equipment and drawings too. So, just looking at your oscillating weight you can see it is missing the shallow groove for the locking shim which is on the 25 jewel one.  The 17 jewel version of the 7750 is the one to the right in my picture.

The pressfitt bearing is like 2 tens of a milimeter smaller in diameter. 
Easiest way to determine if you got the right bearing is to meassure the hole you got on the oscillating weight and on the small flange on the bearing. If you look at your last picture it is the small bit peaking up you see on the bearing to the right.
If the part you got isn't completely circular but got four straight edges on the flange like it looks to be on the bearing to the left in your picture, then you for sure know it is the wrong bearing, that one is for the 25 Jewel one.

The new bearing that I have from Cousins, has indeed got the four flat bits that you mention. 

Incidentally, the bearing on the right of my pictures is the old one.

So that confirms I have the wrong bearing.

I have searched the internet for the press fit one (No flat bits) and, so far, I have drawn a blank.

 

 

IMG_4610.JPG

IMG_4612.JPG



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have only made screws down to M1 & 14BA & I had trouble getting the slot in the centre of the head so I made a jig to help me be more accurate when cutting the slot, here is my video.  
    • I would repeat what @nickelsilver says, and even more. I have at leas 10 old thread plates and I have never seen one that will cut like a normal die. I don't know if they are completely worn or have never been sharp enough, but I find them completely useless. And, for the new Indian ones, I have heard only bad things. For sure, if one tries to cut more thread on a winding stem, this hole of the plate is ruined. Further more, I have bad experience with all watch size thread dies that I could buy from the available machine  tool shops here. They could not cut normal thread even on brass rod. The size was significantly smaller and the pitch is like it should be for the claimed size... The thread shape was bad too. I will explain how I do threads. I use lathe that can cut threads and thus I can prepare perfect taps. I use milling attachment instead cutter in the tool post and so I can cut thread even on hardened rod. But I prefer to harden the rod after thread cutting and temper it only to light color change as to have the maximum hardness. Then I make a tap out of it by grinding. I prepare my dies for screw thread cutting with the taps I have prepared as described. In watchmaking, dies exist and are often used that are not cutting, but rather forming the thread. They are like nuts and don't have cutting holes and edges. This kind of dies I prepare and use. You will need soft steel plate , drill a hole in it, then cut thread, then make chamfer on one side, repeat the thread, harden. You can temper just a little or leave untempered, depending of the steel You use. Using such die is with soft steel rod (or completely annealed). Good oil is to be generously applied. The rod has to be with smaller diam than the thread size (about 0.8 - 0.9 x ), the diam is better determined by tries. The rod elongates by the thread forming too. When I have to make screws from harder material like SS, I just cut them on the lathe. You screw needs hardening and tempering to be finished as real screw.  
    • You could make a guide/jig. Cut a slot in a piece of metal approx the same thickness as the screw head, then drill a hole (screw head diameter) in that slot.
    • Tried a SR920W and its completely dead after 3 weeks 🤷‍♂️ 
    • Thanks so much for quick replies. I got some watch repair tools ordered, and will get back with pictures once I removed the back lid and get into it 🙂
×
×
  • Create New...