Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
24 minutes ago, steve1811uk said:

Ticking nicely, should turn out really well after service and restore.

Do you use a timegrapher or equivalent application to tell that?

Posted
Do you use a timegrapher or equivalent application to tell that?
I use an app on my android phone using the built in mic. Weishi 1900 is on my Christmas wish list. Single line trace shows that the beat error is minimal. Steve34717e1085ebfa30fbeed09fa3ec8d89.jpg

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Posted
1 minute ago, steve1811uk said:

I use an app on my android phone using the built in mic. Weishi 1900 is on my Christmas wish list. Single line trace shows that the beat error is minimal.

You really want more than that. Amplitude and patter regularity are the first and foremost data needed. If you want to start learning now I'd say than a model 1000 today is better than a 1900 tomorrow.

Posted
You really want more than that. Amplitude and patter regularity are the first and foremost data needed. If you want to start learning now I'd say than a model 1000 today is better than a 1900 tomorrow.
I agree, I am definitely missing having an amplitude reading. I can use my eyes for now to get a very rough estimate on that. Note the beat error from the APP is actually daily rate error and the actual beat error can be seen by two parallel lines showing on the trace that merge into one when the beat error is minimised. It will do for me until Christmas [emoji16] Then I can enjoy going through my watch collection again and attend to anything that is a bit off the mark.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, steve1811uk said:

Weishi 1900 is on my Christmas wish list

I have one of those and I'm happy with it. Doesn't cost a fortune, about $200+, and it will tell you a bunch of things about the state of a movement. And, even if you're not into repairing, it is very handy when collecting watches. Personally, I consider it a must have. Compare the price to how much you spend on watches! :huh:

  • Like 1
Posted

Restoration and servicing underway. Watch seems to be in very good condition on the inside with very little wear. Gasket is shot. Dial is in great condition. Signs of Seiko S4 I think (black grease) on the 2nd reduction wheel (causing a nice spirograph pattern on the mainspring) and on the calendar side. Case has come up really nice, I don't like to take off too much metal and try my best to keep the case lines so any deep pits stay. New acrylic sets it off. Rebuilding the movement later this week.537f925e7a2f1652155707702ef3457c.jpgcbafd4ee2362f4f17ed4cc5db53192b4.jpgf5626c190dbd109a67ceadaa193984a9.jpg88e7fda788b59eedde3c4578792d9fa7.jpgdc983d08675ac097f43bcb1ada2b3a21.jpg6f64cee10aacd51f3a640408b1e12294.jpgfef3423b6a4da0f583eeb7dc1108fdbe.jpg5db1ef079a1df09004af3588cc3516b6.jpg

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Posted
4 minutes ago, steve1811uk said:

I don't like to take off too much metal and try my best to keep the case lines so any deep pits stay. 

Use a small (20 or 25mm), new wheel with orange Dialux Keep revolutions at the mininimum and wearing protective glass look where exacly you are working, that is on defect only. You will be able to remove pits and digs leaving edges undisturbed.

Finish with grey again on a felt wheel, and then blue on a mopped one.

Posted
Use a small (20 or 25mm), new wheel with orange Dialux Keep revolutions at the mininimum and wearing protective glass look where exacly you are working, that is on defect only. You will be able to remove pits and digs leaving edges undisturbed.
Finish with grey again on a felt wheel, and then blue on a mopped one.
Very interesting, up to now I am hand finishing using abrasive papers (I guess that's in place of the Dialux orange stage). I follow that using a small felt wheel about 2cm diameter on a Dremel type tool on low speed held in a clamp with Dialux grey, followed by Dialux green on a small cotton mop. I believe that green is a slightly finer grade than the blue, probably not a lot in it in terms of performance. Interesting to know if anyone has experience of both.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)
10 minutes ago, steve1811uk said:

Very interesting, up to now I am hand finishing using abrasive papers (I guess that's in place of the Dialux orange stage).

Paper has no role in buffing, which works by displacing metal, even if some people will tell you that it doesn't until they get blue in the face.

Quote

Dialux green on a small cotton mop. I believe that green is a slightly finer grade than the blue, probably not a lot in it in terms of performance. Interesting to know if anyone has experience of both.

Yes your jdm here, green leave strange streaks that takes forever to clean, is doesn't even get close to mirror or new watch finish. Blue does not and gives honest, acceptable results.

Edited by jdm
Posted
Yes your jdm here, green leave strange streaks that takes forever to clean, is doesn't even get close to mirror or new watch finish. Blue does not and gives honest, acceptable results.
Thanks for your input, I will give orange and blue a try going forwards and see how that goes.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Sorry @nickelsilver, I'm just seeing this now.  It is a standard metric screw plate. I followed the suggestion of doing the thread cutting in a pin vise.  It took me forever because the piece is so delicate that I cut and cleared chips very frequently.  But eventually I did get it.  Not pretty, but I got it; the first thing I ever successfully made on the lathe. I cut the screw slot with a jewelers saw.  How can I ensure that the slot is centered on the screw head?
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Hello, My name is David and I’m a vintage watch collector/ wanna be hobbyist watchmaker from France. I really want to progress into my watch repairing hobby. For now, I’m only having fun servicing my own watches and spare movements, simple small 3 hands from the 50s (Omega, eterna…) Learning step by step or at least trying to 🙂
    • More setbacks and successes...  After letting the watch run in (but before I fixed the BE) a chunk of the radium lume fell off one of the hands and pulverized leaving radioactive dust all over the dial 😞 ☢️ ☠️ So before I could continue further I decided I would remove the radium lume.  I have removed radium lume from hands before where it was already starting to flake away but this time I had to work out what I was going to do with debris on the dial.  I decided that getting everything under water and removing all the lume was probably the best way to go. So here is what I did... I put an essence jar I use for cleaning parts and filled it with water and put it into a big ziplock bag along with the tools I would need - a sharpened piece of pegwood and  a 0.80mm screwdriver  -  I put on a pair of nitrile gloves and a covid style mask and then opened the back of the watch. Now with the back off the watch I could do the rest inside the bag.  I removed the watch from the case and removed the hands from the dial (through the bag) and then undid the dial screws and removed the dial from the movement.  I then put the hands and the dial and the watch case into the water and removed the movement from the bag.  Carefully and slowly with one hand in the bag and one hand trying to poke and hold stuff through the bag I gently rubbed away the lume from the dial and hands with the pegwood. I then took the parts out of the water and removed the jar from the bag (leaving the parts still in the bag) - with the majority of the dangerous stuff now in the water I disposed of this (down the toilet) and gave the jar a good rinse in running water before refilling it and returning it to the bag where I gave all the parts another rinse in the new water.  I then took the parts and put the geiger counter over the top of them and looked at them carefully under UV light to see if there were any flakes still hanging on. I dried everything with some kitchen towel. Once I was finished will all that I remved the parts from then removed the gloves and put them in the bag with the paper towels and the pegwood and thew the bag in the household waste. Finally I gave the dial, hands and case another rinse in the sink under running water.  I didn't bother following up with a rinse in distilled water water because the water here is pretty clear of limescale etc and I find it doesn't mark! So here are the results of my weekends work! Timegrapher dial down (dial up is almost the same) The fixed shock setting New crystal - and lume removed from dial and hands
    • Hi and welcome! I'm new here too—greetings from Leicester, UK.
×
×
  • Create New...