Jump to content

Lorus Quartz Movement Help


Recommended Posts

my neighbor asked me if i could put a new battery in her lorus nurses fob watch , but unfortunately it still doesn't go with the new battery fitted.

I had a look on Cousins just to see how much a new movement would be but got a bit bogged down by the amount available and ligne size and all that.

As i say its a lorus fob the writing on the movement says Japan and the numbers are PH3N P021J any help as to how to find the replacement most appreciated as my search on Cousins drew a blank 

thanks Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From Esslinger:

 

Outside Diameter: 6 3/4 x 8 Ligne or 15.3 x 17.8 mm
• Movement 3.15 mm thick
• The height from the bottom of the watch movement to the top of the sweep second pinion is 4.80 mm
• 3 Hands
• Requires watch cell 377
• Requires watch hands: hour 1.20, minute .70, and sweep second .17 mm
• Has NO jewels
• Stem: 354222, Tap 10
• Overall height from the bottom of the movement to the top of the sweep second pinion is 4.82 mm
• Includes watch stem and temporary plastic watch crown
• Hattori Japan quartz movement
• Japanese assembled

 

US$4.95 and the stem and battery are included!

 

They list 3 versions: PC21, PC21HCP, and PC21XHCP. The difference is the overall height...so make sure you get the correct one. Corresponding prices increase by one dollar.
 

Edited by bobm12
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The manufacturer lists four versions: PC21AE, PC21AF, PC21J & PC21S

 

The difference is in the height of the sweep second pinion. Except for J & S, which are the same height. I think the difference between J & S is that J has a longer battery life. (3 years vs 2 years.)

post-158-0-36919400-1423675175_thumb.png

post-158-0-11896100-1423675173_thumb.png

post-158-0-95738300-1423675173_thumb.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Mike, you have summed it up following the KISS principle.   Tom
    • I think this is pretty typical when you have something that crosses many regional and international borders. @Neverenoughwatches yes Rich, that is the common way, learning from our teachers, however terms used in Yorkshire could easily be a lot different for tools, techniques or methods different from Scotland or Somerset. My (long winded) point is it all depends on where you first picked up the terms, if from books American watch terminology differs from English terminology and to a degree Swiss terminology. That also seems to extend to watchmaking schools. Confusing at first starting out but like anything else you get used to it. This will be why our long term members attach a glossary to new users introducing themselves as beginning their journey.    Tom
    • Personally I would just replace like for like.Or just polish the old crystal and refit.
    • I've also heard it called the "top side" and the dial side the "bottom side", which should make any non-repairer very confused. There are many examples and sometimes it comes down to personal preference. Personally, I like to say "dial train" whereas most other people would use the term "motion works".
    • Is magnetism such a major problem that we (as home hobbyists) need to spend $$$ on a fancy demagnetiser? I use one of the cheap blue Chinese demagnetisers (£10 from ebay). It works, and has never failed to demagnetise a movement, or my screwdrivers. Magnetometer - who needs one?  Take a very small screw. If it sticks to the clean part, it is magnetised 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...