Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

hi gang.  I have this old swiss watch i bought and apon dismantling and cleaning i realizex two things. 

First it obviously had a geneva stop at birth which is no longer there.  Unless someone else has a better idea what parts are missing.  Im attaching fotos. The geneva is assembled on the outside of the barrel lid.  The arbor for the geneva secondary wheel is missing as well.

Second.  The mainspring barrel arbor is only stablized on one side (the barrel bridge side).  The dial is porcelain.  I was hesitant to think the dial stablized the front pivot for the mainspring arbor.  It doesnt.  The barrel flops around with the dial on.

The fotos are after the initial cleaning.  I was checking for wear, polishing pivots, etc. This watch has an interesting time shaft which is friction fit into the minute wheel arbor.  Its not pictured.

The watch ran when i bought it.  Im asking if anyone knows or has seen i watch movement set up this way?  I cant seem to dismantle the arbor from the ratchet/ click wheel.  I know it comes apart but i tried and i dont want to screw up anything without someones experienced advice.

Thanks

Steve

20200526_175403.jpg

20200526_175419.jpg

20200526_175432.jpg

Screenshot_20200526-190641_Instagram.jpg

Edited by Orologi67
Left out a picture
  • Like 1
Posted

The mainspring barrel is known as a suspended barrel as it only is attached on one side.  I'm attaching a picture with some text to the image so you can see what it's supposed to look like. The way that it's supposed to be disassembled is you need to remove the barrel and then the arbor unscrews if you're lucky.

The stop works mechanism is interesting in that watchmakers like to collect things. Rumor has it they steal the jewels out of your watch but that's not true but they do like to collect stop works mechanisms. Or the reality is they get confused at least that's one theory and don't know how to put It back together so they just don't. The watch will work fine without it.

I've seen in the past where the solve the barrel wobbling problem dramatic modifications made in the dial side. Milling was done to the plate than a new plates inserted to support the barrel. Usually this always jumps out as just not looking right. So disassembling the barrel and possibly making a bushing providing the steel arbors not the problem which is unlikely.

 

 

 

Swiss suspended barrel.JPG

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks!  That was very helpful information.  Ill see if i can proceed removing the screw off part of the barrel arbor.

I did see a video on u tube about an extremely thin Vacheron that had a "floating barrel"  there wasnt enough room to have a bridge on the other side/ and or/ the plate wasnt thick enough to accomodate a pivot hole on one side.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • What you’re saying is that if the entire coil is lifted or tilted either up or down it is due to a slight twist in the spring? Usually next to the stud?  I’ve chased this before and in one instance the spring came out of the stud and I had to reinstall it and secure it in place.  Do you find that the angle (not twist) the spring leaves the stud not only affects how it centers in the regulator pins but also the coil spacing? This could be caused by a distortion in the spring as it grabs and release the pins. I find turning the stud counter clockwise opens the coils 180 degrees away from it. So do I adjust the stud in relation to the regulator pins or to the coil spacing?  I also find that unless I remove the balance from the cock I can’t see the slight distortions in the spring. In my picture the distorted spring looked fine when installed. Do you use Alex’s technique of sliding the regulator arm up and down the curve to find distortions or can you visually see them?   
    • So if anybody overrides what i say, listen to them haha. I'm not an expert but i've just been in this boat a dozen times as i used to mess up hairsprings bad, but the good part of that was that i got to learn how to fix them.  What made my life SO much easier was learning how to adjust the hairsprings with the balance installed on a disassembled mainplate, unless it's a very serious problem or on an inner coil you can't get to i would recommend trying this in part because the spring will mostly ALWAYS look flat when the balance wheel is not installed on the cock. Install the balance wheel back in the cock and the cock with the cap jewels in the mainplate, with it installed even the most imperceptible twist will be pretty obvious. Just make sure the balance jewels are also installed. In these movements, if 99% of the time any twist or problems gonna be around the terminal curve, twists often near the stud, especially if you've been removing their awfully designed studs from the balance cock. If there's a reliable way to install those things without introducing a minor twist to them i haven't found it. they're an awful design. INstall the balance on you mainplate WITH your capstones/chatones and look sideways across the balance under magnification. Look for the highest or lowest spot of the now not flat hairspring. 180 degrees from that high or low spot is where your twist will be. You have to be VERY careful with twists as the tiniest over or under twist brings it out of flat. If the area i have to untwist is near the stud i just use a pair of #5 tweezers or some very sharp fine curved tweezers and gently see which way i twist it corrects the twist, then i hold the very fine point of the tweezers on the hairspring and just gently squeeze and check it and see if it started to correct it, then i rinse and repeat. Tiny adjustments is what you want, don't close them all the way, and dont' introduce a flat spot in them. it's just a little nudge by closing the tweezers on it at an angle. .  If the twist is not near the stud, i grasp the hairspring with some very fine curved tweezers as gently as possible while still holding it then i do that same sorta tweezer squeeze with my #5's. 
    • Has it got the logo on the crown. I think you're best option is going to be to remove the damaged stem and measure it. Edit Do you have the case reference number.
    • Movement is Omega 1012. I bought this from Cousins: 
    • Welcome to the WRT forum.
×
×
  • Create New...