Jump to content

Waltham - 16 '43 - T A mainspring


Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I brought a Waltham stop watch a while back spares or repair. Finally took it apart to have a look and it doesn't have a mainspring in it. Even though I dont fully understand how it works I think putting one in would be a good place to start. Rest of the watch seems ok so hoping power will get it working to an extent.

Can anyone here point me in the right direction on sourcing the correct one? 

Movement states - Waltham - 16 '43 - T A

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Measure the thickness of the spring (strength), the width and if you can the length. If you have nothing to measure, get the barrel diameter and width inside and go to Cousinsuk.com. If you email them with the watch type and serial number, they should be able to get a fit.
Here is a video I made on mainsprings.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All,
I brought a Waltham stop watch a while back spares or repair. Finally took it apart to have a look and it doesn't have a mainspring in it. Even though I dont fully understand how it works I think putting one in would be a good place to start. Rest of the watch seems ok so hoping power will get it working to an extent.
Can anyone here point me in the right direction on sourcing the correct one? 
Movement states - Waltham - 16 '43 - T A
 
 

Need the serial number of the movement and a few pictures would be good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hell0 @nevenbekriev. Thank you for your advice. I have removed the old setting using my staking set--I will keep the KIF spring, since it is still good.  I am awaiting the replacement setting, and will update when I do that. In the mean time, I looked at the escape wheel and it looks ok. What do you think?    
    • Aloha All, I recently bought this Seitz tool on eBay, but it is missing some pushers reamers.  I ended up ordering new parts for those that were missing before I received the actual Seitz tool (bad idea).   Upon inspecting the pushers/bits, I noticed 23 of the 56 provided with the set had no numbers. Further inspection revealed a huge difference in the quality of those unnumbered.  Do all Seitz pushers/bits have a number on them?  I'm pretty sure that 33 of the 56 I received are cheap Chinese knockoffs.  The worst part is that I ordered $80 of parts to replace the missing pushers/bits, and now I'm looking to return the tool. I'm not crazy, right? If these are Seitz parts, they should all be numbered, correct? The first two pictures are the Seitz (numbered), and the other pictures are the suspect parts.  Will I even be able to get a refund?  Thanks, Frank     
    • It was £10 + min fee, total £16, could not leave it there. Its a Stanton A.D.2. http://stanton-instruments.co.uk/
    • Chief- The picture below shows the three parts from the dial side that are most useful to "fingerprint" a movement in conjunction with the diameter of the movement.  That's why forum participants are always asking for dial side photos in posts asking for identification.  As far as the setting lever screw, it actually sits loose in the main plate. The threads engage the setting lever below, and the elongated stem above the shoulder sticks through a hole in one of the bridge plates so that it's held captive if unscrewed all the way.  So you may be fine as far as that goes. 
    • So I found what I believe is the setting lever screw! Am I right in thinking the screw next to the click is the correct one for the setting lever? However if it is, it doesn't fit in the hole which I believe is for it! I can get the lever to sit nicely on the stem and line up with a hole, but the screw only goes as far as the shoulder and stops. It's as though the hole is too small! The dial side has been disassembled by the way, the other wheels are in my tray
×
×
  • Create New...