Jump to content

Click spring replacement


arnaudG

Recommended Posts

If you can identify the movement then you can probably just buy a new one.

Post some good clear close-up pics of the movement and make a note of any numbers or symbols on the movement plates, particularly on the main plate underneath the balance wheel and someone will likely be able to ID the movement and caliber.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK so the movement is made by Cattin, and looks to be a caliber C66-CLD (but a C66 will be just fine as it's the same thing without the date). The part is #434 click spring.

Unfortunately both Cousins and Borel list that part as obsolete, which means they don't have it.

There is a complete movement currently on eBay here

and it looks like these movements were often to be found in Mortima watches so it's worth looking out for a scrapper to see if you can salvage the part you need.

Happy hunting :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi ,that looks like to me a one jewelled version of the cattin 66 ,a popular 17 jewelled french movement of the era in a lot of dive watches from Mortima . I would say the click spring off a cattin 66 will fit your watchImage result for cattin 66 movement

Edited by Graziano
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Cattin 66 is a quite oddly constructed pin lever movement.

It uses 17 jewels, but two among them are without any function at all and are located on the dial side on top of the mainspring barrel.

The balance jewels are enclosed in a very “special” way: They are surrounded by large plasic frames. Maybe due to the red color, this looks quite nice, but it doesn’t offer any advantages to a metal jewel enclosing. Additionally, due to the lack of a shock protection, it makes the balance axle breaking quicky, if you drop the watch.

The complete gear system is located under one bridge and is not stacked. Since it consumes a lot of space, the cannon pinion must be driven indirectly. This is done like on Roskopf movement by the mainspring barrel, but unlike Roskopf movements, the hour hand is driven by a separate gear.

On the dial side, you also find a yoke winding system - an unusual detail for pin lever movements.That movement you have looks like a one jeweled version of the above .I love the old dive watches and have a few Mortimers with this movement they keep great time when looked after ,and are quiet rare hang on to it.........

Edited by Graziano
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess I could go for this:

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MORTIMA-WATCH-NO-WORK-FOR-PARTS-MEN-S-CAL-CAT-C-66/223889087344?hash=item3420d45b70:g:GKsAAOSwhLReJwEj

I read somewhere that I could bend what left of the broken spring and make sure it can catch the ratchet wheel.

Could it work for the time being?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a cheap buy , if you are going to keep the watch you would have a donor movement to source further parts .You never know you may even buy another c66 movement watch one day ,and you'll have spares . They are getting harder to get ,I would buy that and replace the yoke winding spring .I would not try and bend it ,it may work but sometimes it can cause other problems down the track . But that's what I would do .good luck

Edited by Graziano
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I also see a bit of danger for the wheel, at least you have to keep away from it and may get a too thick rest ring. My rest rings are about 0.05 mm. Better way would be a grinding wheel touching the staff with its circumference. Frank
    • Not easy to find this one everywhere,  so it depends where you are located. Joining it back together might be possible, i have silver soldered mild steel before even with traditional plumbers lead and its a pretty strong joint, but bere in mind this is only 1mm diameter.  The join would need to be very accurate,  it not something i have heard of anyone trying before. The part no 401 is the swiss code number and relates to watch winding stems in general
    • Thanks everyone for your helpful replies. I think between us we’ve worked out what’s going on. Next job is to have a proper look at this great wheel assembly, see if I can remove the clip and the friction fit pinion, give the bits a good clean, then put it back together with a bit of blue grease. I’ll also get the pallet fork under the microscope to see if it’s ok or been damaged. 
    • The cannon pinion (be it conventional style or what you see in this movement) should slip on its arbour so the hands can be set independently without affecting the gear train.  If there is too much friction between the cannon pinion and the second wheel, turning the hands to set them backwards can sometimes force the escape wheel teeth to overrun the pallet stones, creating the behaviour you describe. The train is running in reverse when this happens.  This can often chip the pallet stones. I’d say at least half of the watches I’ve inspected with very tight cannon pinions had chipped pallet stones. Hopefully this isn’t the case with your watch.  I’m not familiar with this movement but you need to get the friction in the cannon pinion adjusted correctly.  Hope this helps, Mark
    • Pallet fork was in. I’d had the movement running ok, and only removed the balance to flip it over and install the keyless works and date mechanism. The pallet fork wasn’t locking the gear train when hand setting - it was oscillating as the escape wheel rotated. This may have been in one direction only - can’t remember. 
×
×
  • Create New...