Jump to content

Watch stops after ~7 hours. SS at 13 seconds always.


Recommended Posts

Sorry if someone read this in the Perregaux thread, but it seems that somebody must have an idea about it. If not, it's the last I'll ask regarding same. As the title states, the watch, an automatic GP 47BF/ETA 1256 stops after running for 7 hours. The fact that the seconds hand is always at 13 seconds must mean something to someone, no? It certainly isn't a coincidence. Twilight Zone or something else? Anybody have any ideas as to what it should be? Thanks ahead of time.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is usually the second hand touching the crystal at that point,creating a little drag. It could also be touching the minute hand, but that would usually cause it to stop at whatever point they coincide. Steve


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, Gpsluvr. I'll check it, but the crystal is pretty high-domed, so I doubt it's hitting it (On a better look, it is possible.) And why wouldn't it hit it every time it goes around instead of every 420 revolutions? I'll remove it from the case and see if it will run longer, and not stop at that point. Thanks again. Cheers.

 

Edited by MrRoundel
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent. I was thinking the same thing, but was thinking it would be rubbing inside one of the other hands. In the other thread I mentioned that I did not replace the mainspring. It does happen at what seems like it could be the end of a wind. Since I was wearing it last time it stopped, it may also tell me the automatic mechanism isn't working properly. I guess I'm just getting my crown-winds from it. The weight does move around, but not as freely as it should I suspect. Many thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you will, Give it a full manual wind, if need be through ratchet wheel.

Set on bench ( in static position) record how long it ran.

Wear the watch for a normal day, record how long it rans. 

Remove seconds hand, repeat do all the above.

Reverserse in the selfwinder module are normally the cause of poor selfwind.

Clean reversers with all cleaning instruments you have, oil with fixodrop as recommended by @Clockboy. Clean lube barrel and service the movement.

Seconds hand stopping at second13 following towards the end of wind is unlikely to be a cause, neverheless remove hands one at a time and observe if there is a difference in the above data.

Report all for a meaningful diagnostic.

Regqrds joe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, Nucejoe. What you say makes perfect sense. I gave it a pretty good (Not sure if it was full.) wind last night with the movement out of the case. So far it has run overnight, and nearing the 12 hour mark. It appears as if the issue was the second hand rubbing under the crystal.

I did not clean the reverser wheels when I serviced the watch. Being that DeCarle said not to take them down completely, and the fact that I don't have any epilame type lubricant (Other than a naptha/watch oil mix.), I thought it best not to. If I had the epilame or fixodrip to lube them with, I would have cleaned it. I'll look into getting some now. I do remember it being quite expensive for the average hobbyist. Many thanks.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After getting the hands set as low as they can possibly go, the watch has made it around 12 hours keeping good time, so they must clear. Not a lot of room for error on this one. And I really like the design of the hands, and didn't want to have to change them.

Oh, and I'm going to have to wait a bit on servicing the auto-wind mechanism. I really need to get new cleaning solutions and the Fixodrip. Thanks for the help, guys. Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • When faced with say a pocket watch bridge which is cracked, silver soldering to repair is often the only option (hopefully someone wasn't there before hand with soft solder). I can generally do this succesfully and tidily with a small torch and miniscule pieces of silver solder, but on parts which were mercury amalgam gilded the heat can have have a deleterious effect on the finish.   I keep wondering if there's a good way to refinish these - and despite having the needful items would rather avoid using the mercury process.   In the past for electronic work I've gold plated PCBs but this involved gold potassium cyanide solution, which also doesn't realy belong at home. I've read that there are now safer alternatives but couldn't find more detail (and importantly how similar are the results to amalgam gilding, since I wouldn't want to refinish the whole watch). Pointers would be very welcome (and yes, I know solutions containing gold won't be cheap!) Alan
    • The first one is an Unruh max stake for pushing out staffs
    • Ok so with the great answers for my previous question may I ask what these two attachments are used for. The one with the red knob is I assume used for hand setting the seconds hand? Jon      
    • According to Cousins site I need to look at document G22 as I think I need an ATGB at 304 but I cant find this size in G22 doc. The last thing I want to do is order the wrong one😳  Unless I cant see the wood for the trees 😆 I could be looking at the wrong style, I assume its classed as Round plastic Armed  https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/wide-ring-gold-atgb
    • When building a new Watch I have tended to use a file to remove the remnants of dial feet that are not needed as many dials come with four feet to accomodate different movements, but this can be a bit messy so now I use this with a great deal more precision as you can use an appropriate bit for the job and keep it very localised.      
×
×
  • Create New...