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Posted

I have a Solar pocket watch with the seconds at 6:00 that needs a new balance staff.

I cannot figure out how to take the movement out. I removed the case screws and the stem and thought it would just drop out but no such luck.

It appears that the main plate is larger than the back of the watch which seems to be the only removable part.

There must be a way to get it out but I can't see it. Please let me know if you have had experience with this type of watch.

Thank you

Posted

I don't know this specific brand but I have worked on a few where the movement comes out of the front and some don't have a very obvious case separation ring like the back does with an indentation.

Does it have a decorated or plain but slightly raised ring between the crystal and middle of the case body?

I have an old one in my drawer upstairs which may be similar that I can snap a photo of if it might help you?

Posted
9 minutes ago, m1ks said:

I don't know this specific brand but I have worked on a few where the movement comes out of the front and some don't have a very obvious case separation ring like the back does with an indentation.

Does it have a decorated or plain but slightly raised ring between the crystal and middle of the case body?

I have an old one in my drawer upstairs which may be similar that I can snap a photo of if it might help you?

It does have slightly raised and decorated ring. There must be a separation somewhere but I can’t seem to find it but there has to be one.

Does it separate at the raised ring?

Posted

Apologies I didn't get back sooner.

I'm assuming there's no obvious hinge or lip for a case back tool.

I'd suggest first trying to unscrew it, rubber gloves can be handy here for grip.

I'll get a pic of the one I have when I get home from work, while not exactly the same it might give an idea.

Logic says if it won't fall out of the back it has to come out of the front.

Posted
19 hours ago, m1ks said:

I don't know this specific brand but I have worked on a few where the movement comes out of the front and some don't have a very obvious case separation ring like the back does with an indentation.

Does it have a decorated or plain but slightly raised ring between the crystal and middle of the case body?

I have an old one in my drawer upstairs which may be similar that I can snap a photo of if it might help you?

It does have slightly raised and decorated ring. There must be a separation somewhere but I can’t seem to find it but there has to be one.

Does it separate at the raised ring?

Posted

I got the front off. I used a very little penetrating oil on the rim and it came off quite easily.

Thank you for pointing that out to me.

Now to see if I can do something to make it work better.

  • Like 1
Posted
48 minutes ago, Folkvisor said:

I got the front off. I used a very little penetrating oil on the rim and it came off quite easily.

Thank you for pointing that out to me.

Now to see if I can do something to make it work better.

Great news. I was curious because, although that's typical there are always oddities out there.

Posted

I’m one of those ‘oddities out there’...LOL

It needs a good cleaning and a new balance staff. I’m thinking it got dropped once too often. I hope I can get a balance for it; it’s a very well made time machine.

  • Haha 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Folkvisor said:

The balance staff was damaged, bent and broken pivots. I bought one on eBay. Hopefully it will be as good as new soon.

Fingers crossed it's a good one for you.

Posted

The ratchet wheel screw is extremely tight. I can't remove it. I tried to loosen it a bit by putting on a little pallet jewel oil and letting it seep in under the head of the screw. Hopefully it will loosen it a bit but I am not certain it will penetrate far enough.

I don't want to force it so much I break the screw.

Any ideas?

Posted
46 minutes ago, Folkvisor said:

The ratchet wheel screw is extremely tight. I can't remove it. I tried to loosen it a bit by putting on a little pallet jewel oil and letting it seep in under the head of the screw. Hopefully it will loosen it a bit but I am not certain it will penetrate far enough.

I don't want to force it so much I break the screw.

Any ideas?

I'm not sure other than perhaps try a little diesel or plus gas, (you can buy it in tins so you can just put a drop on).

Highly unlikely being the ratchet wheel but have you tried to see if it's a left hand thread?

Go cautiously though. You don't want to strip it.

If it were me I'd use something like a hairdryer to apply heat locally to the screw head and ratchet wheel then plus gas or if you can get a little easily, diesel, it creeps very well on seized bolts and was a commonly used penetrating oil when I worked as a mechanic.

Posted
58 minutes ago, m1ks said:

I'm not sure other than perhaps try a little diesel or plus gas, (you can buy it in tins so you can just put a drop on).

Highly unlikely being the ratchet wheel but have you tried to see if it's a left hand thread?

Go cautiously though. You don't want to strip it.

If it were me I'd use something like a hairdryer to apply heat locally to the screw head and ratchet wheel then plus gas or if you can get a little easily, diesel, it creeps very well on seized bolts and was a commonly used penetrating oil when I worked as a mechanic.

The crown wheel was loosened by turning it cw but the ratchet screw should be a regular thread...I think...

I’ll see if I can get a little diesel fuel. I’ll try the heat thing too.

Thank you for the suggestions.

I promise not to use WD40...

  • Like 1
Posted
21 hours ago, Folkvisor said:

Would naphtha work?

The answer to that is a definite perhaps. Haha.

Drop a bit on and see, it can't hurt it after all. It de greases well enough.

Posted

I think I’m gonna just clean and oil the thing and forget about trying to take the ratchet wheel off. I don’t want to break it.

 I’m hoping the new balance staff works well.

Posted

Now the hard part.

Any idea of problems replacing the balance staff?

I've watched videos on this and all I've really learned is that it isn't an easy thing to do.

One suggestion was to use a lathe but I haven't no lathe - just a staking tool.

Posted

That one unfortunately is way out of my skill set.

Beyond using a staking set to drive out and press in a pinion, (which I've had very minimal experience of) I have no further idea.

I imagine if fine tolerance adjustment was required then a lathe would be necessary.

I believe Mark covers replacing pinions with a staking set in one of his videos though.



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    • With the amphibia there's also the gasket in the screw-in crown. If memory serves a correct seal for the back of the case is tricky to find as well, but maybe that's because mine are vintage. The newer cases are larger I think. 
    • As others have pointed out we discussed this subject in great lengths multiple times on multiple discussion groups. Then we have a subject that has too many variables and generalizations that make all the different things seem like one common removing staffs when it's not. There are variety of balance wheels specifically designed to be hard enough to withstand knocking or pushing a staff out. Rolex has one that the only way the staff is coming out is by pushing it out enough pressure is applied the river breaks with a very satisfying pop. This is because they hairspring cannot be removed until the staff is pushed out through. Then of course Rolex has a nice set of tools just for this purpose. A variety watch companies like Elgin made a balance wheels specifically designed to be hard enough to withstand knocking the staff have. For instance that principle is applied with jeweling tool you mention and here's the complete article down below that explains the procedure. Then of course there are variety watch companies Elgin And Hamilton that specifically designed balance staffs designed to be knocked out because the riveting shoulder is supposed to break. That of course would be the original staffs and probably the aftermarket do not have such features.   One of the problems with all of these tools would be the balance staff itself and of course whatever the balance wheel is made of. Personally I like the rule of if you're knocking the staff out and you gently tap with the hammer and it doesn't just pop out then you do not drive it out you do have to use a lathe. Because for variety of reasons staffs that are perhaps over riveted not quite the right size soft balance arms etc. driving a staff out that doesn't really want to come out it's not your best interest to do that.   A variety of American companies used friction fit staffs. For instance here's an example of Waltham Here's something interesting from Hamilton a specific type of 992 with a specific type of hairspring. Normally the Hamilton friction staff's do not have a groove to indicate such. Such as the Hamilton 992B or the Hamilton deck watch but they only have one staff which is friction. This particular staff has been marked because if you read carefully I suspect originally it might not have had a friction staff this was basically an upgrade. I know I've seen in the staffing assortments the blued hubs as a replacement components.    Then I'm attaching a PDF of Hamilton's thoughts on replacing balance staffs. Notice either the hub where the river can be cut away they don't have a preference it's whatever you like. Plus they mention the staff that is designed to break away. Although I have a suspicion you'll probably never see one of those as it would have to be an original staff and I suspect none of the after markets would have that feature. Hamilton technical data number 129 replacement of broken balance staffs.pdf
    • Thanks for shedding light on the exact problem — you're right, it's the centre tube, not the cannon pinion. That was the issue, and after tightening the centre tube, everything now sits correctly. The train bridge can be fully tightened and all the wheels run freely. I haven’t tested the pallet fork yet as I haven’t refitted it, but I’ll be doing that shortly to confirm if the issue is entirely resolved. @Neverenoughwatches Sorry for misusing the term earlier.
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