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I use the two tube, floating arm with a weighted base type, the model 2324. I'm posting this repair process because I'm fairly certain that these lamps are popular with all of the watchmakers to some degree. Mine is the twin fluorescent tube version. It developed an annoying habit of extinguishing itself without warning. The fault was traced to the on/off switch. This is sold on Dazor's website as part number 241A, currently priced at $19.40 USD. It is a double throw, 8 position switch which in my lamp utilizes only 6 of the positions. You will need a soldering iron of at least 100W power. There are a couple of minor points that will make the job go smoother for you. There are 4 screws on each end of the lamp underside. The upper and lower screws on each end allow you to remove the painted reflector and sockets as a unit. These screws while similar to the ones holding the sockets, are in fact slightly longer. 

Once the reflector and sockets are hanging loose, you will be able to mark the connections so as to not confuse them when reassembling. The two knurled nuts on top of the shade will release the on/off switch, allowing you access to remove the insulator and access the wires. Simply remove and replace wires one at a time and you can't go wrong. Reverse the process to reassemble your lamp, install the fluorescent tubes and you're done. Dazor has a repair section on their new website but as of yet, it's still under construction. I'm hoping that in the future they post wiring diagrams and part numbers specific to each lamp. These are highly useful lamps as well as being somewhat collectible. A repair of this type can be done for a very small amount. A new lamp of this model is over $400 USD. Ouch!

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I use the two tube, floating arm with a weighted base type, the model 2324. I'm posting this repair process because I'm fairly certain that these lamps are popular with all of the watchmakers to some degree. Mine is the twin fluorescent tube version. It developed an annoying habit of extinguishing itself without warning. The fault was traced to the on/off switch. This is sold on Dazor's website as part number 241A, currently priced at $19.40 USD. It is a double throw, 8 position switch which in my lamp utilizes only 6 of the positions. You will need a soldering iron of at least 100W power. There are a couple of minor points that will make the job go smoother for you. There are 4 screws on each end of the lamp underside. The upper and lower screws on each end allow you to remove the painted reflector and sockets as a unit. These screws while similar to the ones holding the sockets, are in fact slightly longer. 
Once the reflector and sockets are hanging loose, you will be able to mark the connections so as to not confuse them when reassembling. The two knurled nuts on top of the shade will release the on/off switch, allowing you access to remove the insulator and access the wires. Simply remove and replace wires one at a time and you can't go wrong. Reverse the process to reassemble your lamp, install the fluorescent tubes and you're done. Dazor has a repair section on their new website but as of yet, it's still under construction. I'm hoping that in the future they post wiring diagrams and part numbers specific to each lamp. These are highly useful lamps as well as being somewhat collectible. A repair of this type can be done for a very small amount. A new lamp of this model is over $400 USD. Ouch!

Photo please


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