Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi *,

Now I understand how can the mainspring damage the movement. First hand experience because I made a mistake at the end of the cleaning and oiling process. 3 o'clock in the morning. I felt the teethes bouncing of my chest. Needless to say I was and I am still very sad.

Best regards,

Lui 

DSC_0003.JPG

  • Sad 1
Posted

If empathy is helpful, a torsion clock I spoke about a few weeks ago suffered badly bent teeth when the mainspring let go, at some stage in the past (well before I laid hands on it, I'm pleased to say). 

The pictures aren't brilliant but you can see the mashed up teeth between positions 6 & 7 o'clock on the wheel and at 8-ish o'clock on the barrel.

I straightened the barrel teeth out OK, managed to find a spare in place of the damaged wheel and (after sorting out former a repairer's 'adjustments' to the pallets and fitting the correct suspension spring) the clock's now fine.

750934002_Damagedteeth.thumb.jpg.f3e61cd3abca00d969fd26bd7b9f3af7.jpg  

  • Like 1
Posted

It is easy to forget quite how much energy is in a spring.

Even a tiny watch spring is capable of launching projectiles across the room, and mangling delicate components in the process. While letting down the spring on one of the Timexes I was looking at, I lost my grip and the entire watch literally flew past my ear on to the floor.

Fortunately no damage was done, I was expecting a snapped seconds pinion or a damaged balance.  I did have to do a bit of crawling about to recover a couple of parts however. 

The point is I guess, despite the fact that I was being particularly cautious I still managed to launch the thing in to orbit.

Clock springs are an order of magnitude more impressive when they get loose, so I would suggest always wearing eye protection when there is a chance of them escaping.

  • Like 1
Posted

Two rules I live with.

1) Allways let down the springs.

2) Never move the hands if any resistance is felt as it is a safe bet a tooth or teeth has been bent somewhere and you will only bend a few more.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 3/13/2019 at 6:14 PM, 2131tom said:

If empathy is helpful, a torsion clock I spoke about a few weeks ago suffered badly bent teeth when the mainspring let go, at some stage in the past (well before I laid hands on it, I'm pleased to say). 

The pictures aren't brilliant but you can see the mashed up teeth between positions 6 & 7 o'clock on the wheel and at 8-ish o'clock on the barrel.

I straightened the barrel teeth out OK, managed to find a spare in place of the damaged wheel and (after sorting out former a repairer's 'adjustments' to the pallets and fitting the correct suspension spring) the clock's now fine.

  

Yes empathy is helpful i felt really miserable at that point 3 o'clock in the morning. :) Well done with the repair!

Posted
On 3/13/2019 at 8:17 PM, AndyHull said:

Clock springs are an order of magnitude more impressive when they get loose, so I would suggest always wearing eye protection when there is a chance of them escaping.

Good advice! I try to keep it in mind.

Posted (edited)
On 3/13/2019 at 8:28 PM, JimmyD said:

Two rules I live with.

1) Allways let down the springs.

2) Never move the hands if any resistance is felt as it is a safe bet a tooth or teeth has been bent somewhere and you will only bend a few more.

This accident happened when I tried to test the clock at the end of the cleaning and re-assembly process. I try to always let the spring down before I start with a clock. (I only touched a few watches so far because I am a beginner.)

It was really painful because I was so proud that I fixed the broken mainspring (heated it up and created a hook and a lose end) then at the end of the process I ruined it. This is not a valuable clock but I just cannot stand this. :( :) 

Edited by luiazazrambo

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...