Jump to content

seikos three

yankeedog

By yankeedog
in Your Watch Collection

 Share

Recommended Posts

yankeedog Distinguished Member

yankeedog

Posted
Posted

Hello All, 

                  Just staying out of trouble today with some seikos, that were purchased for parts from a vendor in The Netherlands.Starting with the one one the left, the movement was rusted beyond practical repair. I replaced it with an NOS Seth Thomas branded 7009 The one in the center was in similar condition. Not a thing is matching on this one, the case and the back don't match for one thing.The hands and movement were pirated out of westclox automatic with a ghastly  chrome case .it was a utc branded 7009 equivalent, 7005  calendar parts were swapped over so movement could work with the dial and case. Totally Franken, but the watch was a lost cause when I got it.The results I think are pretty good. The one on the right was a relatively unmolested 6109 , except for the fact that the previous owner had glued some luminous material to the indexes.It looked awful, some of the residue is still on the dial. The problem with them all, and the two remaining on my bench was gasketing, they were improperly sealed and all suffered to some degree from water , most likely sweat intrusion. I will have to look into proper gaskets for them. Thanks for looking. YD

seikos 3.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
TexasDon WRT Addict

TexasDon

Posted
Posted

Pretty impressive. There's something totally satisfying about bringing a watch back from a certain trip to the landfill. When properly sealed, any of those will make a great beater to wear while working in the yard or any other 'sweaty' activity. My hat's off to you. 

Were that I was as good at avoiding trouble. I just collected a Wenger SeaForce Arctic special edition from the mailbox. Oy! It's a beaut. My poor bank account......

Link to comment
Share on other sites
AndyHull Distinguished Member

AndyHull

Posted
Posted

I have a bit of a soft spot for Seiko automatics, and have picked up a couple of basket cases. They clean up nicely, assuming they haven't been too badly molested, and tend to survive many years of servicing neglect that might prove fatal to a less robust movement.

The Citizen calibers ( 0201 etc (and by association HMT 0200 and 6501 and Alwyn (Seiko movements) ) also put up with a lot, and still battle on, as can be seen by the large number of them that turn up on ebay from India with garishly repainted dials or delusions of grandeur (claiming to be a Fortis, Tissot or some such).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Chief
      Generic screws for unknown movements

      By Chief · Posted

      So I found what I believe is the setting lever screw! Am I right in thinking the screw next to the click is the correct one for the setting lever? However if it is, it doesn't fit in the hole which I believe is for it! I can get the lever to sit nicely on the stem and line up with a hole, but the screw only goes as far as the shoulder and stops. It's as though the hole is too small! The dial side has been disassembled by the way, the other wheels are in my tray
    • AlanB
      Gilding after silver soldering

      By AlanB · Posted

      When faced with say a pocket watch bridge which is cracked, silver soldering to repair is often the only option (hopefully someone wasn't there before hand with soft solder). I can generally do this succesfully and tidily with a small torch and miniscule pieces of silver solder, but on parts which were mercury amalgam gilded the heat can have have a deleterious effect on the finish.   I keep wondering if there's a good way to refinish these - and despite having the needful items would rather avoid using the mercury process.   In the past for electronic work I've gold plated PCBs but this involved gold potassium cyanide solution, which also doesn't realy belong at home. I've read that there are now safer alternatives but couldn't find more detail (and importantly how similar are the results to amalgam gilding, since I wouldn't want to refinish the whole watch). Pointers would be very welcome (and yes, I know solutions containing gold won't be cheap!) Alan
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Can anyone identify what this is? Part Two

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      The first one is an Unruh max stake for pushing out staffs
    • JonC
      Can anyone identify what this is? Part Two

      By JonC · Posted

      Ok so with the great answers for my previous question may I ask what these two attachments are used for. The one with the red knob is I assume used for hand setting the seconds hand? Jon      
    • Zedster
      Roamer Searock Crystal problem

      By Zedster · Posted

      According to Cousins site I need to look at document G22 as I think I need an ATGB at 304 but I cant find this size in G22 doc. The last thing I want to do is order the wrong one😳  Unless I cant see the wood for the trees 😆 I could be looking at the wrong style, I assume its classed as Round plastic Armed  https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/wide-ring-gold-atgb
×
×
  • Create New...