Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi,        Just thought , you mean you broach the worn out hole in the plate, increase it's ID, to 1.2 mm or as large as the available space provides, then insert in the reduced bush, perhaps the final rounds of sanding best be manual, easy to over reduce by power tools.

I am still looking for center jewels. How do I measure ID on them? No problem measuring OD.

What happened to the bear? Still among surface population.I gather you live on farm or satelite towns or by highway the blink your eyes you miss it kinda town, I enjoyed rural America  over a decade, I think that is how life and living environment should be. 

Regards joe 

Posted

If this was my job I'd open the hole in a faceplate centering on the corresponding hole, and make a beryllium copper bushing. Reaming out much more than .10mm poses a real risk of drifting the hole. Making the bushing means it can be quite small and fit the hole and arbor perfectly. But- lacking that tooling and on a personal watch it's worth a shot with reaming and modifying a bushing. You can chuck up a bit of pegwood in a Dremel type tool, run it against a file at a slight taper so your bushing fits on friction tight then have at it with a file or abrasives.

Just try not to ream so big that if the hole does drift there's enough material to correct it.

Posted

Hi, not to ream so big that if the hole dose drift.....

I see you are RIGHT . I'll take back what I said . Some material should be left in case the hole drifts. 

If the hole dose drift, I imagine correcting the mess requires tools and machinest and expenses.

And how would we know wheather the hole has drifted or not?  

Glad you joined in before I completed helping Ckelly ruin the watch. :hair:

Regards joe 

Posted

Hi Joe,

   If I had to make a quick guess at the id of something I would try to use something with a know od.  Say to estimate the id of a jewel I might use a know sfaft, if I didn't have that I might take a smoothing broach and mearsure the od of that. Say open my caliper to.5 and insert broach until the broach stopped. Them mark the broach at that point. Probably not very scientific but would get me pretty close.

  Yes we live out in the country. As a joke I might say we are about 10 miles west of Nebo. My hometown has two stop lights and one exit on the interstate 40. We are actually about 30 miles east of Asheville.

   The bear is still around. He tore down my wifes bird feeders. You can look out a back window in our house about everyday and see wild turkey.  Yesterday there were 4 deer out back. We also saw a bobcat once. 

Thanks,

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Nucejoe- if the hole drifts you can see it either with a measuring microscope or jig borer or in a faceplate, centering on the corresponding hole and comparing. All require a certain amount of equipment.

Ckelly, your method of measuring bores is an established one though not ultra accurate.

If you want I'll do your bushing and try to get some decent pics of the process just for educational purposes, it's a pretty quick job but you'd have to ship to Switzerland..

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Hi.

 Wow, I just looked at my last post here and I must have been asleep while writing.  Many typos to the point I'm glad you were able tp figure out what I was talking about. Thanks for the offer about doing the bushing but I have done it before and think I will be fine. I just wanted to find if there were any other ideas before I started a bushing job. I had in the back of my mind using a jewel but so far I haven't found one that I feel good about trying. I have found one with proper id and an od that will work but I'm concerned about the thickness. Don't want to buy 1 jewel for $30. that might be too thick.  

Posted

Yes something of known diameter, I am looking in my stuff for jewel though and no guessing of ID since you can,t make fit the ceter shaft on your watch also the numbers you gave change too. I guess no guessing for small measurements, 

Nickelsilver's point, the drifting of the hole , is something which  I assumed of little significance at first" assmed watch works "I see I was wrong to propose largest ID the available space allows. We all know what we are doing when we assume ha ha.

My apologies , my mistake.

So, Nickelsilver cautions of possible drift, then he proposes leaving some space for possible drift and  offers doing the bushing. He is a jewel personally. Very Nice of him and just what I was saying, more help comes in as you produce more data.

I have nearly a gravey boat full of jewels, no sorted no assorted, mixed .

Regards joe

Posted

Did we ever check for magnetization here? It’s a simple reason that could lead to a snow graph or timing problems! Fitting a jewel where a jewel never was seems like the last thing I would do if all other fault finding steps were checked. 

Posted

Hi,

   I went through all of the jewels I had and finally found two that could work. One had an od of 1.2mm and the other was about 1.05. I decided I would try the smaller one because the 1.2 would get me very close to the edge of the plate. Today I decided to try and get the jewel installed. I was a bit hampered by the fact that the reamer I thought I should use was broken but I was able to work things out. After I got jewel installed I could hardly wait to try it out. I installed drivetrain and gave it a try on my timegrapher. The beat error was .2 as it was running without the minute pinion when I tested it out earlier and with the jewel and minute pinion beat error immediately went to .2 and was stable. Timekeeping was about +20 seconds with plenty of adjustment. 

   Am including a picture with the jewel installed. Without the pinion installed you maybe can see some more of the damage to the plate, of course the reamer removed most of the damage.

   Thank you all for your suggestions, help and interest.

Charles K

DSCN3835.JPG

×
×
  • Create New...