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That’s why I think they are ok, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is my Heath-Robison mk 1 watch holder mic assembly. Fully adjustable to any position. Using: Lapel mic Camera ball mount Elastic band Polystyrene pizza base Chair foam Bit of old watch mainspring But first - here is a trace obtained from this. (Remember no pre-amp, just a lapel mic) So here we are: And the chair foam provides vibration isolation. For the mark two I'm going to replace the gorilla pod with a proper stand with foam feet. Swap the elastic band for a sprung retainer of some form and use a more expensive pizza base - maybe Hawaiian or pepperoni.

Just to follow up I received replacement parts during this week and just reassembled my mainspring winder today and it all looks good, so problem is now solved. Yes this was made by the main supplier of these in the USA, I know of 4 other people with the same brand of mainspring winder and theirs had no issues, I must of just got unlucky, but the manufacturer just going by my photos agreed their was an issue and made me the new parts and sent them to me at their expense so I am happy. Now I can finally reassemble the clock barrels I am working on.

Not sure where you got the image but it is not the image of the K&D remover, not accurate at all, and the OP IS a beginner which was what the whole topic was anyway. This topic is becoming toxic, almost as bad as lubrication and cleaning solutions. There is more than one way to remove a staff, plain and simple, and although one way may be preferred, it's not gospel. Im done with this debate, everyone have a good day.

There is a show in Geneva which is far more interesting for those of you into repair / manufacture, it's called EPCHJ Geneva and it's on in June. Baselworld used to have a basement (a very large one) with machines and parts suppliers, but they haven't had it for a few years and these companies are now largely at EPCHJ. My observations of Basel this year was that it is predominantly for retailers & distributors, most of the stands are entry by invite, so unless you are a trade customer then most of the show is inaccessible.

Absolutely agreed. Also a staff remover cannot support the spoke securely (see picture)! Punching out will work fine until you get your first distorted hole by a too thick rivetting (I did). Then you will be cured. A: will a beginner have to change a balance staff?? B: Turning will be without any risk, if you remove the hub, not the rivet. With a cross slide also slipping is not possible. Frank

Hi all, I saw this discussion over K&D staff removal tool versions and wanted to add a few words from my experience. About a year ago I bought myself a rusty old staking set that I managed to get in decent shape. Just to find that I was missing the staff removal tool... So I went ahead and bought one from Uncle Larry, just to find that it is of the shorter kind that leaves a lot of air in the staking tool. But... and I’m not really sure if this is intended or just a bit of fluke but using a stump with a suitable hole size on the staking plate will raise the position for the balance wheel enough to make it all work out fine. On the operation of the tool, my assumption is that the clamping of the balance wheel very close to the staff is what makes this work. This clamping will effectively ”focus” all the force when tapping to the weakest point i.e. the rivet and break this without any damage to the wheel. Things can go wrong of course but it has worked fine several times for me now which can’t be considered too bad for a beginner and should encourage others to try (on something less valuable) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The wavy lines are normally due to magnetization. Lubricating the pallet arbors in some watches actually causes resistance, and therefore a poor amplitude and possibly a low rate. I'd remove it and remove all traces of oil and try again. Normally American pocket watches had a lift angle of around 45-48 degrees.

The amplitude looks low, and I'd bet the lift angle is actually less than 52 degrees, which would make the actual amplitude even less. I'd re-check the balance pivots and jewels, and proper lubrication as @Chopin asked is critical. If you lubed the pallet arbor that could be the cause of a low amplitude and or losing rate. I would also check to make sure the hair spring was inside the regulator pins. I wouldn't expect too much from this particular movement, but better than -200 sec a day is achievable. You stated you replaced the mainspring as well, was it an exact match? Too weak will cause low amplitude (but generally a gain in time) which is not indicated here on the timegrapher image. I would work backwards from the balance wheel and make sure each component is functioning as it should.