Latest Incoming Project : Chrono
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By KarlvonKoln · Posted
I thought of "Precious Finds for Pocket Change". Or maybe "The Penny Pincher's Post"? -
Hi All, Seeking help to find a new stem for a Ronda Quartz Movement Calibre 1006. I have had a pretty hard look myself but have come up empty, I know I can get a new movement from Cousins, but the Watch probably isn't worth the 53 UK pounds plus freight to down under. It is a Rotary dress watch I bought on eBay, it was described as just missing the crown, but upon arrival the stem is broken off halfway down the pendant tube and rusted solid. I may have to return it if I can't find a stem as the item was not described honestly. Regards CJ
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I knew I this will bite me. I apologize for my laziness, I speak English poorly. What I meant was, I performed a barrel end shake inspection, which showed that the end play is a bit excessive, was a bit "loose". The excessive play was coming from the outwards bent barrel top and bottom faces, which had to be "adjusted", strengthen flat.
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By ManSkirtBrew · Posted
It's a screen capture from the video showing that the face of the pusher that used to be flat is now domed. I know we can't achieve perfection, but I'm wondering if the effort taken to dress the faces of the pushers and stumps makes a positive, negative, or negligible difference. -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
Having good fun with a smiths 542 cal. Low amplitude always is a problem with pp watches. I did discover issues with the balance, friction fitted ruby pin on the wheel was not straight or in line with the guard pin cut out as part of the staff. I did re.align but not staighten the pin. And bottom pivot of the staff was bent, which i nearly had straight with a pivot gadget thingy but i pushed my luck at the end and it broke on me. Found another balance in my ever growing stock, had the same issue with the ruby pin ? Must be a quality fault, but at least the pivots were good. Problem now is the locking depth on the pins, entry is too deep and the exit is barely holding and jumps off multiple escape teeth as the pin drops onto a heal . I've figured out some angles to bend at and have a rough stetch to work to, looks like a tricky manoeuvre to bend the pins into position 🤔 . I understand that the end shake needs to be equal for both the escape wheel and the fork so that the lock stays the same throughout positions ( should be equal for other reasons also ) if the pins are going to be not straight ,but no jewels here unfortunately. Anyone moved pallet pins before that has any tips . It is possible also that the banking pins are not correct, note...we dont move these until we are sure thats the problem
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