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This bad boy came to me a mess. Didn't know what it was, got it cheap, and was intrigued by the obviously swiss movement in a phillidelphia case. Apparently brittish air Force. Anyways it's very nice. 15j decorated movement. Enamelish dial that's dammaged. Skeleton hands that used to be lumed. My problem is I need a balance cap Jewel for the cock. When I took it apart there was a small piece of what looked like graphite or something that someone stuffed in there to make it run. The cap Jewel is cracked. Runs great upside down and stops dead right side up. How the heck can I find this part?? Plus the click spring flew away but I can make one of those if I have to. Any suggestions. Someone already told me it might be electa, but I can't find any the same. I'd love to restore this thing.646cb96ddcac1a38f18b378a620b1d61.jpga2392552d7a9a94a1b7c399fb234a152.jpg0edae6532edcb1d32766691bbae880e9.jpg

 

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Posted

Wow that's alotta jewels lol. I suppose I'll be learning how to replace the Jewel in the setting with this route. Thanks for the link!

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Posted

I suppose the short and skinny is to heat and remove and find the same size Jewel and heat and replace. That's gonna take allot of reading and YouTube vids lol. Suppose I'm going to have to learn this sometime. Didn't realize that's what I was looking at doing, was kinda hoping I could find a donor movement lol

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    • Yep…This makes perfect sense. With that large a gap in the serial numbers, they were almost certainly machined on different equipment, hence one should have no expectation of any cross-batch compatibility. I’ll revert to the original bridge. Regarding bending the bridge @nevenbekriev, I’ll give it a try, but I may have to buy some better calipers. My Vernier calipers are only accurate to 0.1mm. Not very accurate. 
    • Yes, what I wanted to say is that the cock is part of the main plate, manufactured together with it and not meant to be interchangeable. Even if the other cock gets in place, it is not sure that the balance then will stay upright. You should use the original cock when it exists and is not destroyed. The adjustment needed by bending it is not irreversible. It is minimal deforming that is needed. No tools are needed. I have pointed to all needed references here for the balance staff endshake checking and correctness confirmation. The only tool needed for the correction is You thumb. The cock must be fixed on the main plate, no need of special plate with holes and so on. If You will feel more confident, then measure with Vernier caliper the height of the top of the cock where the stones are against the main plate bottom when the shim is fitted and try to reach the same height when bending the cock (with no balance in place!!!) Caliper with screw for fixing is perfect.    
    • Thanks for the reply. I polished the head of the screw using 1500 to 10000 lapping paper and a screw polisher. This is why I think the head blued and the rest of the screw didn't. Silly question, how do you polish the whole screw inc threads, if that's what it needs to blue? 100% clean, Elna red and heated ultrasonic bath + IPA rinse. Finally, there is definitely heat leak as there's about a 30c difference between the brass bed and the soldering station temp. Having said that, the bed temp was stable. I will try to search out a better brass pot, but I haven't found one yet, hence the stainless steel bowl. 
    • Agreed but that's where WD40 excels, water displacement. 
    • I would change the container to a thick walled brass one to start with. Looking at you screw pictures they don’t look shiny enough, really it’s best to do a black polish on them before trying. Also make sure once polished they are scrupulously clean, I dunk my experiments in acetone before bluing.   i think the thin walled stainless container to leach away the heat from the shavings, most successful bluing videos for example use thick walled brass to hold a good deep amount of shavings which acts as a better holder of heat.   Tom
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