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Thank you. I have found John Vernon's "Grandfather Clock Maintenance Manual" very helpful in explaining the basics. Unfortunately I have now discovered that the fly has a broken pivot which has rather set me back. I will have to try to source one from somewhere. -
OMG, that means all pins my magnet liked were made of copper. -
Yes, this is on the basis of no epilam. Interestingly, the technical guide calls for using HP1300 instead of grease on a lot of stuff in the keyless works which might indicate an assumption that it had all been treated with epilam. This, exactly I suppose . Literally trying to get a more, or less, viscous oil by mixing two different oils together. Obviously you would imagine using oils from the same 'family' would make them more compatible. Actually, I knew this. Everyone seems to use HP1300 to substitute D5 but Moebius actually recommend their HP oils only for jewelled bearings. If it's a brass bushing D5 is best. Interested what the outcome might be if I used 9020 on the balance/ escape wheel pivots of a typical wristwatch sized movement. The practical consequence of this would be having to service the movement again if it doesn't work but actually the real consequence is that you have bought 2ml of extremely expensive oil that you might not use again. -
What size is the movement and have you done the usual search with bestfit. To me it looks like something in the 10 series. The other option would be to measure the staff and try and trace it from their, or at least find an equivalent. Edit Just realised after a bit more digging the manufacturer is marked on the movement 'FREY' -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
1mm copper wire can be tapered to fit. Softer than brass but it does work.
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