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Confused About Adjustments


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My impression so far is that regulating is a just a question of setting the watch to go faster or slower, whereas adjusting is more involved and concerned with getting the watch to run as consistently as possible (in all positions). Is that about right?

 

What's all this about adjusted in 5 positions though? I understand the different positions (face up, crown up etc) but there aren't different adjustment possibilities for each position, are there? (Orthogonality in physics/maths terms :) , ie. where adjusting something in one position doesn't affect the timing in the other positions)

 

What can one do, apart from get the balance wheel as perfectly balanced as possible, the balance spring shaped properly and the end gaps in the studs (?) set properly?

 

This isn't about a problem with a particular watch, just general curiosity.

Edited by colinh
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This is an interesting question which, appart from the intrinsic build/design of the movement might have to do to what we hobbyists and watchmakers do "at the shop" with the timegrapher.

 

As per watchmaker's class:

 

" Different watch companies may adjust to different sets of positions, but the following are common:

 

1 position adjustment: DU (dial up) This watch can be said to be only regulated!
2 position adjustment: DU and PD (crown down)
3 position adjustment: DU, DD (dial down), PD
4 position adjustment: DU, DD, PD, PR (crown right, vertical position)
5 position adjustment: DU, DD, PD, PR, PL (crown left, vertical position)
6 position adjustment: add PU (crown up) to the above positions. Six position adjustments are difficult!

 

First: equalize the horizontal positions: Rate difference between DU and DD can usually be attributed to differing friction in the two positions. Check pivots, jewels, lubrication, and rubbing of balance wheel or hairspring in one position but not the other.

 

Second: equalize the vertical positions: Differing rates in the vertical positions are caused by the effects of gravity on the balance complete. Errors are caused by an out of poise balance wheel or a hairspring that has been deformed from its ideal shape.

 

Third: equalize the horizontal and vertical positions: Very slight opening or closing of the regulator pins may be attempted. Careful so the pins don't pinch the hairspring.

 

Rules:

1. Opening the distance between the regulator pins and hairspring slows the rates in all positions. But, the vertical position (crown down) is affected more than the horizontal (dial up/dial down).

 

2. Closing the distance between the regulator pins and the hairspring speeds the rate in all positions. But the vertical (crown down) is affected more than the horizontal (dial up/dial down).

 

When all the rates are as close as possible, the regulator can be used so that all or most of the rates show a slight gain. If the actual wearing conditions cause the watch to gain or lose, the regulator can be used to achieve a rate to match the wearing conditions. This is sometimes called “adjusting to the wrist.”

 

Once the watch is regulated for position, carefully replace the winding rotor. A careless bump against the regulator or the stud when installing the rotor can affect the timing. Once the watch has the case back on, recheck the timing again."

 

So that's all there is to it, easy as pie!

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