Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

One question that has cropped up for me a couple of times while watching your movement disassembly and reassembly videos is how you keep all the screws straight in your head, i.e. which screws go with which part?  I can see how you systematically lay everything out on your bench as you are disassembling, but once you put it all together to go into the cleaner, any sort of order on the bench would be lost, right?

 

In the case of different sized screws, it would seem a bit more clear, but I worry about mixing screws of the same diameter but slightly different lengths.  Would such a thing occur frequently in complex watches?

 

I've only worked on the simplest of time pieces so far, so I haven't gained any real world experience in dealing with this issue, but you've dismantled some pretty intricate movements on video and I was hoping you might share your thoughts and guidance.

 

Thanks!

~Dan

Posted

Great first post - and it is a question I get asked from time to time.

 

First of all - if there is a watch of which I am unfamiliar I use a digital camera and I try to get a good photograph for each stage of disassembly. This picture will have the part I just removed with the corresponding screws next to the correct holes. It's then easy to flick back through the pics when re-assembling.

 

You will find that as you get more experienced you will do this less and less. 

 

Back when I was an apprentice we did not have digital cameras and so we would make sketches.

 

As you go along you will find that you will naturally know where screws go.

 

If the watch is complicated, like a chronograph. I sometimes unscrew and remove the component and then I will screw the screw back in place (not tightly as this could damage something) and this is very helpful especially for screws that look the same but have subtle differences.

 

And for the screws in the train wheel bridge and barrel bridge - check as sometimes there will be one or two shorter than others - this is to make clearance for the keyless (winding) work components.

 

I hope this helps.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Checked already it is 1.9mm. Meanwhile I came also to the same conclusion that the MS I am looking for is numbered as 2230 which is 2.05 mm in height (and made in different strengths), that's the reason why I double checked.. maybe it is the correct height. The barrel lid is actually not the press in type but the one which sits on the top so maybe the 2.05 what we are looking for. I put the barrel arbor and lid together and I think the gap and the 1.9mm adds together to 2.05mm:   2230 here which is for size 0s & 3/0s:  https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/reference/mainsprings  
    • That would actually be very clever and it would probably wash off the lubrication. You're supposed to apply it to clean parts then let it run a little bit and then apply the lubrication. Software-based timing solutions is a interesting term because you do require some hardware. As the world of timing machines have gotten more complicated even things like which he timing machines that might appear to be a physical timing machine are not they're basically a PC running well the machine at work is running Windows CE. Which from time to time has to be rebooted because it decides it doesn't want to work. Currently witschi decided that probably the intelligent move that they really not in the manufacturing and now they microphones with USB typically so expensive microphone because they have all sorts of nifty electronics buried in the thing and software in use apply the PC. Then as this image was convenient here's an example of what I was talking about how other methods of showing things can show things.This image was convenient I have others that are way more dramatic but you can see the effect of the gear train having some power fluctuations not bad though for 17 size vintage Elgin watch. In any case you can see the effect of the power and the gear train producing Uneven power and yes all gear trains are going to do this to a certain degree it's just the way they work and then we can see the output changes a little bit but not enough to be really concerned about for watch like this. Then the lift angle is probably not correct for this particular watch either So basically for any software you get your going to need a microphone and that will require some electronics fortunately some other people making software grasp this and they will supply a microphone.   Here's a program that I've used. This is their US websites I do find websites for timing machine software or even timing machines quite interesting because apparently whoever comes here is supposed to grasp everything about whatever it is there purchasing where typically they may not especially if the software has enhanced features. https://www.etimer.net/ Then we have PCTM As you see highly recommended by others on the group. I think you going to need the enhanced version which you have to pay for I only have the free version. Frank's website is a bit hard to find and does seem to lack pretty pictures and descriptions of how the software works although he does of a PDF that explains this if you could find his website that is.    
    • So are you saying the existing spring is 1.65mm high? If that's the case then it's the wrong spring to start with. You also need to check the barrel depth again to confirm this is correct.
    • You need to get a 1.2mm thick crystal, or possibly a 1.3mm.
    • "The spring i found has 1.4mm thickness and 1.65mm height." I didnt write length because someone heated up the end and made a new hook, i assume the MS was broken. Rannfft actually lists it as Waltham 1907: https://ranfft.org/caliber/10698-Waltham-1907  It seems MS were/are sold based on the size of the watch?
×
×
  • Create New...