Jump to content
  • 0

How Do You Keep All The Screws Straight?


One question that has cropped up for me a couple of times while watching your movement disassembly and reassembly videos is how you keep all the screws straight in your head, i.e. which screws go with which part?  I can see how you systematically lay everything out on your bench as you are disassembling, but once you put it all together to go into the cleaner, any sort of order on the bench would be lost, right?


In the case of different sized screws, it would seem a bit more clear, but I worry about mixing screws of the same diameter but slightly different lengths.  Would such a thing occur frequently in complex watches?


I've only worked on the simplest of time pieces so far, so I haven't gained any real world experience in dealing with this issue, but you've dismantled some pretty intricate movements on video and I was hoping you might share your thoughts and guidance.




Link to post
Share on other sites

1 answer to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

Great first post - and it is a question I get asked from time to time.


First of all - if there is a watch of which I am unfamiliar I use a digital camera and I try to get a good photograph for each stage of disassembly. This picture will have the part I just removed with the corresponding screws next to the correct holes. It's then easy to flick back through the pics when re-assembling.


You will find that as you get more experienced you will do this less and less. 


Back when I was an apprentice we did not have digital cameras and so we would make sketches.


As you go along you will find that you will naturally know where screws go.


If the watch is complicated, like a chronograph. I sometimes unscrew and remove the component and then I will screw the screw back in place (not tightly as this could damage something) and this is very helpful especially for screws that look the same but have subtle differences.


And for the screws in the train wheel bridge and barrel bridge - check as sometimes there will be one or two shorter than others - this is to make clearance for the keyless (winding) work components.


I hope this helps.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Answer this question...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Lots of parts which are in fact separate are not sold individually. Other examples are  the rotating bezel insert, or the mainspring. The latter fact is guaranteed to give an hissy fit to beginners especially. Normally that happens when special techniques or tools are needed, and chances of damage are significant In the end it simplifies the maker but increases repair cost, unless the repairman is able and willing to go the extra mile. The practice is not certainly not unique to Seiko, or for that matter, to the watch industry.
    • Be reassured, they don't bite. Not really, check below However, 320 deg. on an old movement.t is impossible for any sustained time. What can happen when swinging 160 deg sometime the Chinese machine can't read that properly, and doubles it up. It it was so easy to get maximum winding from an automatic barrel, no braking greases would be needed or sold. Anyway, and I am repeating this here for other readers, the design of any automatic watch, Seiko or other brand, is so that no rebanking will happen, even if the mainspring is wound up to maximumum theoretically possible for its geometry.
    • Unfortunately I do not have crystal lift tool. Did u used crystal lift tool to compress the crystal and fit it right into the bezel?  
    • Hopefully it just need regulation, however to be diagnosed as a minimum the watch needs to placed on a timegrapher, which is also needed for a correct regulation across positions as well. In the US, 200 USD would proably be a low estimate. You have posted in the sectiond dedicated to own repairs and projects. There is a dedicated one for questions.
  • Create New...