Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a sarb033 (beautiful watch) but my problem is that i need a new Balance wheel and i can't seem to find one, could anyone tell me if a balance wheel from a 7s26c movement would be the same as the 6r15c movement in the sarb033, thanks

Posted (edited)

Even if  the OP is not in the UK, Cousins UK ships worldwide and cost is very low for orders under 25 GPB.

A 7S26C balance may work but the specific one has a different P/N: 310.046

Edited by jdm
Posted

Yes thanks for the info i have been into the site and have seen the specific part code, the thing is it's only the balance wheel and i was looking for a balance wheel + cock in one like this only with c type balance IMG_0049.JPG.a666ea9122d0fabb000da6a8e87f41a6.JPG

Posted

If your issue is not being able to replace the hairspring end stud to the balance cock, then be aware that the two parts are not sold together, so either learn how to do that as explained in the attached service guide, or bring it to a watchmaker.

If you are really have a faulty balance cock (please tell why you think so), I have plenty of these and can send for postage, just PM.

 

7S26C.pdf

Posted

Ya the two parts( balance wheel + cock) sold separately are no good to me cause i wouldn't be able to replace myself, you'd really need to be sure of yourself doing it that way, but if it was together like out of another movement I'd be able to do that, that's why I'm looking at buying a movement and taking out the cock and balance as one, it's easier, I'm currently looking at a new 7s26c movement on eBay, it seems the 7s26c and 6r15c have nearly all the same parts including the c type balance

Posted

As mentioned above the specific 6R15 balance complete has a different P/N from the 7S26, even if clearly the overall architecture is the same.

If you are  beginner don't mess things further mixing parts. You do not have the right tools (including a timegrapher) and skills to do the work properly. Bring or send your watch to an independent watchmaker or Seiko service center. Otherwise sell the watch as it is disclosing the problem and buy another, these are very easy to sell or buy.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If a runner, I usually let the movement run in naphta for a minute, some movements need a bit of encouragement to run in liquids, so a quick dip of the movement in naphta then remove and encourage the oscilator with puffer, repeat several soaks.  Or if you don't want to soak or dip the movement in cleaning solution ,   keep putting naphta on jewel holes as the movement runs on bench. A pre-clean of some sort  helps.  Avoid lifting out the fork with tweezers or any tool.  Try blowing fork pivot out  with strong puff of air from jewels holes back side. Good luck .      
    • 60! Wow, that's a lot. Can't say I understand the problem because disassembly is usually quite uneventful, except for springs launching into space. Most people break pivots during assembly. I use a homemade brass pry tool to loosen parts. It's just a short length of hard brass wire sharpened to a chisel point. Don't pry at just one point and crowbar it out. Pry at the notch and when a crack opens up, slip the pry tool in and loosen it at a few more points until the bridge is free.
    • Beginner here. Of about 60 watches I’ve serviced and repaired, I’ve broken a pallet pivot on three, always during disassembly, and usually when the old oil has transformed to glue. Each watch was Swiss, in case that makes a difference. Here’s what happened in each case: - unscrewed the pallet bridge or cock - gently inserted a screwdriver in the  slot under the pallet bridge or cock - gently but firmly rotated the screwdriver, avoiding a forwards force on the screwdriver. If alignment pins stick, the cam action is alternated back and forth between back corners of the plate. - heard a small but horrible click. Is there a special tool or technique for safely lifting the pallet bridge? Should everything be soaked in naphtha before beginning disassembly if there’s any sign of old oil gluing parts together? Thanks! Rob
    • You shared this test with me a few months back on a Hamilton project and so I had checked this watch to find the pins were still equally spaced. Their screw slots were undamaged and very tight hard to move so maybe no one has messed with them before. I can't work on it much today but I did measure the fork slot again and it seems like 0.44 is the right size. I measure the jewel that had been installed at just 0.42. would an undersized too narrow impulse jewel impact the impulse drastically? I ask because I have had it at a state where flipping the fork manually with a tool would unlock some of the time, but the balance was never capable of unlocking.
    • This was what I was afraid of. The movement is not one of the generic black square modules. Remove the movement from the clock and try prying it open very carefully, without breaking the plastic tabs. The plastic might be brittle from age. Clean the wheels and check the battery contacts for corrosion. Check the PCB for bad solder joints. Take plenty of photos along the way.
×
×
  • Create New...