Omega Seamaster, A Case For Refurbishing

[systeman]

Hi all,

 

I've just started bringing an old Omega Seamaster back to life.

 

You can see its original state here:

http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/530-how-do-you-fit-a-vintage-omega-seamaster-crystal/#entry3591

 

I am attempting to refurbish the case and would like opinions on whether machine polishing Vs the hard way, by hand.

 

Here are some photos of where its at now. I'm trying to keep the lug facets as near to original as possible and still have some work to do.

 

There is also a photo of what seems to be the norm for refurbished cases, i.e overworked on a polishing machine and its character lost.

 

 

 

[Geo]

I tend to do it the bard way myself to retain the original profile and the edges nice and sharp. I use various grades of wet or dry abrasive paper from 400 grit to 1200 to get rid of the deep scratches and then Solvol Autosol metal polish on peg wood. A light buff with Solvol on a micro fibre cloth finishes off the job.

[carl]

I agree with Geo. Polishing by hand is a lot of work but the results are worth the effort. It would be a shame to over do it on a machine and loose the original lines of the case. I can remember spending many hours hand polishing and finishing components when I was an apprentice. I also used varying grades of wet and dry paper when polishing but the final polish was done with a fine rouge (paste), I still use this method now. But I like the idea of using car polish, I think I will give it a try. 

[systeman]

Nice input guys'.

 

It's nice to have confirmed what I thought. Take time and do it by hand and one can sit back and say yes, I did that, that looks good.

 

I'm new to this watch repair thing, it's really interesting isn't it? It's taken me back to my industrial roots where I did a five year apprenticeship in tool making and electronics with the Marconi company many years ago, 1966 through 1974. Oops, now you know I'm getting on a bit.

 

Anyway, back to the task at hand, the case is not yet finished. I used fine grades of wet and dry, and then used a 3M 30 micron abrasive lapping film. I also used Autosol, just to see how it cut. I think the cutting medium in Autosol might be a bit too harsh, you can get a fairly nice shine but I notice some swirls. At arms length though it looks acceptable. I guess it all depends how fussy one is.

 

I've heard of the rouge powder that can be mixed with meths, oil and even water and applied using various methods. Also the grades Bergeon Damantine.

 

I think I'll source some aluminium oxide powder at 0.05 microns and make my own final polishing paste. I did read somewhere that that advantage of using aluminium oxide was that the particle size became smaller during use, thus leading to a better finish. I think Diamantine is the same thing.

[carl]

I am not a jeweller or watchmaker by trade but like you served a 5 year apprenticeship with Holland and Holland the London Gunmakers. We hand fitted and finished everything to very fine tolerances. I realise you probably know this but I thought I would throw it in anyway. I was taught metal like wood has a grain. When polishing follow the grain. As apprentices we spent hour upon hour rote learning these processes.

 

When using the finer grades of wet and dry paper add oil. This reduces the friction between the abrasive and the metal. You will notice as the grades of abrasive get finer they can tend to drag leaving very fine but very annoying marks, adding oil reduces this and makes the final polish easier and in some cases negates the need.

 

I have used aluminium oxide to make rouges and it works well. The man I was apprenticed under, like many in the trade had their own 'secret' mixes. His polishing method finished with 4 grades of rouge. He mixed a white 'secret' powder and 3 in 1 oil. This was a fairly thick concoction, roughly the consistency of hair conditioner. They gradually became finer with less 'special' powder and more oil. He applied this using a matchstick and worked it with a piece of cloth and a number 6 pillar file. One christmas, after several pints and a couple of bags of dry roasted nuts he bestowed the identity of the 'secret' white powder, Johnson's  baby powder. I have used this for the last 25 years and found it to work well. It does have some drawbacks, you need to make sure you add oil as you work it as it can form clumps.

 

I have tried all sorts of concoctions to see which is best, and merits to several rouge 'recipes' and off the shelf products. In practice various products and mixes work but results may vary depending on the material. I found toothpaste and 3 in 1 oil worked well on heat treated EN9 but was not so good on softer metals. I have used the oil and baby powder mix on stainless steel with good results. I used a couple of old watch cases to test things on. Experiment and have fun, you never know you may make a discovery. 

[Geo]

What an excellent post Carl.

Having witnessed the finish on these magnificent hand crafted shotguns, I'll most definitely try your techniques and see how I get on. I could have done with this information twenty years ago when I was building competition revolvers!

[carl]

I've never had a lot to do with more modern firearms and hand guns other than repairing a couple of double triggered Tranters. Most of the stuff I've worked on was the higher end shot guns and old duelling pistols and their like.

 

I would like to know how you get on. It is a case of trial and error to get the mix to how you want it and find what works for you.

[systeman]

I'm getting there slowly with the case renovation and think I may even call it a day, as I do not want to overdo it, but I might come back to it later to improve upon it.

 

Inserted the new genuine Omega crystal with a date lense, my first attempt. Might have to redo it though as it is very slightly off centre. One thing I noticed though, and that is the Omega logo is inverted, I guess that something went wrong in the manufacture process. I'm assumed it should be the same way up as the Omega logo on the dial.

 

I'll leave the dial for a while, but it's surface is slightly pimpled and fairly normal for its age. But I will have it refinished and keep the crosshair design.

 

Now for a full service. I think the rotor bush and possible post needs replacing as there is some slight latteral play there, not too surprised at this because I don't think the watch ever had a service before. The case back gasket was off white and had set as hard-as-nails. To remove it I had to soak the case in a saucepan of warm water, that only partly worked, so I then soaked it warm olive oil for a few hours which did the trick.

 

Some before and after images attached.

 

 

 

 

[autowind]

A very nice watch and well worth restoring, keep up the good work and show us the finished article.

[Geo]

Like Autowind, I'm looking forward to seeing the finished article. :-)

[canthus]

I have a similar model to yours but with rolled gold case with stainless back.  I have owned from new since 1967!  Its had a bit of a bashing in its early days but gets treated with more respect now I appreciate what I've got!! 

My case number is CD165.003 if you are interested if yours is all stainless on leather strap it will be ST165-003 or with metal bracelet ST165-003/BCT.  Loads of info on these cases on  www.omegacs.ch/articles/. 

Polish looks great!  I find its best to use a block to keep edges sharp and do by hand as mops etc tend to take edges off ( I did a similar back by mouting on a plastic tube fitted over a drill chuck and used a plastic backing plate (bit of old CD Case!!!) for the polishing cloth.  I see the chap in the Isle of Man uses a brass plate!!  I think the secret of a high finish is to regularly clean off polishing medium and use new, clean medium.  This avoids the polished off residue re-sctratching the work.

I am about to service my Cal 552 so will be interested to see how you go with yours.

[bobm12]

I'm also looking forward to the end results. I'm restoring some stainless steel cases and was probably going the wrong way with them...dremel tool and all! By the way, nice watch and worth of such meticulous care!

[systeman]

An update,

 

I've sent the watch over to Mark for what I believe is probably it's first ever service. I tinkered around with other makes and been successful, but this is my first ever Omega so worthy of a more professional approach until I gain a bit more confidence.

 

There's still a little bit of work to do on the polishing but I do not want to over do it..

 

By the way, the case is a 166.003. As for the dial, I've only seen a couple with the crosshair on the Seamaster.

 

I will not be using the original Fixo-Flex bracelet as there were too many link springclips (if that's the right definition) broken, about 5, plus there's one 558 end piece missing. So I'm selling that on on an auction site so someone can use it for a restoration project as parts are rare.

 

Instead, I've opted to use a 'grains of rice' bracelet. It's the 3010.000 with curved end links which I like and hope will compliment the watch.

 

Not sure what to do about the dial, whether to keep it as it is, or get it professionally refurbished. I worry that the type font may be not quite right.