Jump to content

Beaverdale Clock


deeclee

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.

I used the search feature on the forum and got no result for Beaverdale. I then googled it and did not find much information about these clocks except that they were made in England.

I looked at this one today and the movement seemed pretty clean.

Any chance someone actually owns or repaired one in the past?

 

beaverdale.JPG

beaverdalefront.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I unfortunately don't have access to more pictures right now. I think I'm just gonna try and win the auction so I can practice with this. As a beginner, I read that pocket watches are a good way to get things started as movements are bigger and easier to work with. So I guess this is also true with clocks as pieces are even bigger.

Would you agree it's better to start working on clocks before even trying a watch?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This type of movement is not the best to start with in fact for someone starting out they can be very fiddly. Your best bet is to start with a simple time piece. If you intend to work on watches then some types of pocket watches are the best because some of the movements are like watch movements only a lot bigger. Clocks are totally different to watch movements.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

This type of movement is not the best to start with in fact for someone starting out they can be very fiddly. Your best bet is to start with a simple time piece. If you intend to work on watches then some types of pocket watches are the best because some of the movements are like watch movements only a lot bigger. Clocks are totally different to watch movements.

You sold me! Thanks Oldhippy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Right now I'm making do with a similar micrometer (the one below is $45 shipped but you can find better deals) and a $20 stand. You do have to be excruciatingly careful measuring jewels, since there's no table, but if you don't have the $500 to throw around, it's a nice option.
    • As  I kid, I'd watch Godzilla stomping over buildings and cars and I'd think to myself: Tokyo is a really dangerous place to live... . Cool watch!!
    • Next one up an AS 554, looks like a bit more to this one. First job is to check thickness, most springs are somewhere between .3 and .4, this one measures .35, that matches in with the .4 spring steel i ordered. So for marking up a permanent marker comes in handy to colour up the steel to be marked later with a scriber once its dry. Bestfit provide the extra bit of info for the jumper spring that is missing.
    • Thanks again, Marc.  Super helpful. I was wondering what the hole was for, and now it makes perfect sense. With your help and the other members here, it looks like I'm good to go with my Seitz tool set. I had to order some replacement pushers, but with those, the set is complete and in good condition. Now, I need to figure out what tool to buy to measure jewels (amongst other watch-related parts). I had my eye on the JKA Feintaster micrometers, but people get crazy bidding on them for $400-600 USD. I was thinking of just a regular digital micrometer (Mitutoyo). Thoughts?  Mahalo. Frank      
    • Yep, that's exactly how it should fit. The reamer shank is tapered and the socket in the spindle is also tapered so that the one centers in the other and is gripped tightly. If there is any wobble when the reamer is seated as far it will go then there is a problem. The cross hole in the spindle is to allow you the push the reamer back out again. If the reamer seated much deeper then it would limit the access for pushing it back out again. Here is one of mine for comparison.
×
×
  • Create New...