Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Sorry to keep asking questions, Ok so while i am waiting for parts from another project I thought i would sort out a watch my ex father in law gave me 4 years ago to experiment on, it's a Bulova, hand wind from 1974, the crystal was shot, it didn't have a strap and it was dirty but it worked, i tried to put a new crystal in but ordered the wrong size and then forgot about it....until now that is.

         well I have now replaced the crystal allbeit with the wrong colour tension ring, put a new strap on and put it back together, problem is when i try to wind it up it's not engaging with anything, I can fiddle with it and pull it out and it works for a second or two but when i push it to the right place it doesn't work or it moves the hands. What have i done wrong? Or have I lost a part along the way somewhere?

     Sorry i can't seem to convert the photo, cheers, Dave.

DSC_0107.NEF

Edited by Daveb
apologising.
Posted

The photo doesn't really help apart from seeing it has a calendar works. You will need to remove the movement from its case, it might be a good idea to remove the hands and dial and calendar works. From what you have described it could be parts worn or broken such as teeth or a spring , might just be a loose screw, or even rust.  As it's a Bulove I expect it has a two piece stem if the movement comes out from the front, if so you need to give it a hard pull, some pull easy and some are sods. Just be careful.     

Posted
4 hours ago, oldhippy said:

The photo doesn't really help apart from seeing it has a calendar works. You will need to remove the movement from its case, it might be a good idea to remove the hands and dial and calendar works. From what you have described it could be parts worn or broken such as teeth or a spring , might just be a loose screw, or even rust.  As it's a Bulove I expect it has a two piece stem if the movement comes out from the front, if so you need to give it a hard pull, some pull easy and some are sods. Just be careful.     

Thank you oldhippy, I have followed your advice and found this loose underneath. Sorry I converted to jpeg but fails to upload, maybe too large. Sorry about the focus, new gear, no idea. :D

DSC_0108.NEF

Posted
2 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

All sorted out then.

 

would be if i knew where it went, i've looked at pics online and can't see that part.

Posted

That looks like a date jumper. I can't see where it fits, if you rest the date wheel on the plate you might be able to see where it fits, I would think there should be a fine spring that fits behind the tail of the jumper.

Posted
4 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

That looks like a date jumper. I can't see where it fits, if you rest the date wheel on the plate you might be able to see where it fits, I would think there should be a fine spring that fits behind the tail of the jumper.

Thank you, i'll have a look. Next project pocket watch, i think i need to learn a bit more about movements.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I am puzzled by something a snipped out something from your image and what exactly disassemble tell us? my confusion is the symbol for FHF looks like image I have below year symbol as a star and righted this instant are not finding what that means? I suppose we could use the fingerprint system to verify it really is what it claimed to be. Size itself is really interesting there's almost no watches in that particular size. Then were missing details in the photograph above like diameter of movements to verify it really is the size and are missing the setting components.   went to the bestfit book looking at the symbols didn't see it. Look at the link below I did find it back to the bestfit book and yes it really is there https://reference.grail-watch.com/documents/history-of-ebauches-sa/ then bestfit book says lists the size as 10 1/2. one of the problems with vintage watches is finding parts yes a donor watch would be good.
    • Actually, this could be the issue. Drag from the module could be overcoming the cannon pinion. It was definitely not at the point that the driving wheel was loose on the cannon pinion, it took a little bit of effort to rotate it when applying the grease. Maybe I need to look again at applying oil to the pivots.    Yeah, it's very annoying. I don't want to give up on it, so back on with it over again until I catch a break. 
    • The sping is not pushing directly on the cap, but is pushing against the spindle. So, even if the usual black cap is replaced with the micrometer cap, the spindle is still pushed up.
    • But he tells that the micrometer cap doesn't screw into the spindle. How can the spring push the spindle up if there's nothing to grip? There is a screw visible on top of the micrometer cap so should it be able to screw into the spindle? I'm feeling really dumb now. Does anyone manufacture that cap as an aftermarket item? Might be worth investing. Ok so the spindle is different, now I get it.
    • I suppose? If it worked before and it doesn't work now I guess the question would be why does it not work now? That would come back to if you did not have the chronograph module on will it work or is the chronograph module sucking too much power out of the watch basically 99 usually when they go bad you can hold on the tube part and usually just spin the wheel because it has zero holding at all so usually when they go bad they go bad very bad. You should build hotel when you set the watch as to whether it seems to have any friction or not. I'm just wondering if the chronograph module is the problem.
×
×
  • Create New...