Seiko 5m42 Oiling and servicing (bobm12)

[hzaidi3]

So I just kind of started getting into watches as a hobby.  I got this watch from eBay (5m42) Seiko kinetic movement.  There were two things wrong with it (1) The capacitor was bad (2) the date dial would rotate by itself after it had been set.  I got a hold of some tools (screwdrivers, toothpicks, movement holder) and replaced a new capacitor which fixed the watch overall, however the date dial was still giving me problems.  It would turn by itself.  So I was digging around and found this old thread from bobm12 regarding the teardown of this watch.

Rather than to "resurrect" this old thread I decided to go about doing this myself and pretty much broke down the watch.  I found that on the front dial there seemed to be a little metal piece with a "diamond" like hand that held the "teeth" in place while you set the date.  Anyway that piece was bent back far and could not make contact with the teeth (simple fix).

Problem was I took the watch apart so far (both sides) every piece that it has became a project to get it back together.  It took me 4 days (off/on) to get the "gear train" together and actually figure out get the little gear pins into the holes so that when I put the crown in I can actually see the gears turn when I move the crown.  It also took me just as long to figure out how to understand the "crown movement linkage" the clutch, crown stem and other pieces that allow the crown to go in/out to set the date/time.  So now I have a few questions.

 

1.  I have the service manual for this movement, it's calling for Mobius 'A' as well as some kind of "Seiko oil".  The service manual has the oil points.  The question is I can easily buy the Mobius A oil on ebay but what type of oil needle do I need.  Is there some quick and cheap oil pen with the mobius oil already inside.  I've been using no oil during the entire assembly!!!

2.  Last night I put the entire watch back together and put in the capacitor.  I heard no noise no ticking!!!!  My thinking is that the watch motor is simply jammed.  Reason why I'm thinking this is because when I put the gear train together to motor (magnet) seems to want to stay off center.  I don't know if the actual pin on the top of that gear is making it's way into the hole or the jewel once I put the cover on!!!  Once some ways to test this once I get that part together?

3.  So this watch contains a date function.  How do I set the hands (once I install them) in "synchronous" to the date fiction.  So once they hit 12:00 the date changes?

I know it's a lot of questions, Thanks

 

[WileyDave]

I can't answer your questions, but I have found it simpler and sometimes cost effective to just replace the entire movement. Granted, some of the kinetics can be expensive. AND I do not have any experience with trying to repair said movements, a lot would depend on your circumstances. (is it your watch or friend/customers?)

This 5M42 I found to be $70 + USD, expensive, yes, but solves problem of trying to repair. I suppose the question I'd be asking is "How much time/effort am I willing to put in to the repair, versus replacement"?

I am not trying to be condescending or make you think twice about what you are doing. Like I said, I know absolutely nothing about kinetic movements. To me, at some point, it would make sense to explore other options if you can. We're here to help, because most of us here, were once where you are now!

[Marc]

Hi Hzaidi3, welcome on board.

Is this the first watch movement that you have taken apart? The reason I ask is that it's not one that I would recommend as a starter as they can be particularly fiddly. However, it is perfectly doable. 

To answer your questions;

1. For general oiling you need oiling pins like https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/oilers-3-in-1-af-swiss

I would use either the extra fine (red) or the super fine (black) for most of the oiling on a 5M42. You will also need a good loupe so that you can properly see what you are doing. One of the most common mistakes with oiling is to use too much oil and being able to see what you are using helps to avoid that.

2. The pivots n quartz movements particularly can be very difficult to align and really all you can do is to keep trying, gently nudging each wheel until everything is in place. An oiler (clean) is actually quite a good tool with which to gently coax things into position, and again, a good loupe will help you to see if the pivots are seated or not. Only tighten the train bridge screws up once you are sure that the pivots are correctly aligned else you run the risk of breaking the pivots. There is a trick to getting the rotor to behave. Place a screw against the rotor pivot on the opposite side of the main plate to the side the rotor installs so that the magnetic rotor holds the screw in place. In so doing the screw also helps to hold the rotor in place.

3. When it comes to syncing the hands to the date change, without the hands installed rotate the crown (in time setting position) until the date just changes, then install the hands pointing to midnight.

 

[bobm12]

Hi Hzaidi,

I believe all your questions have been answered, (thanks Marc!). So, Moebius A is simply 9010. For the rest just be consistent with the function of the gear/section but in general Moebius has "Quartz" oil you can use instead of 9010 and all the other regular stuff, like moly on the keyless works or D5 instead of Seiko S6 and such...I have S6 as recommended in the Data Sheet so I don't experiment!

So, the key ingredient here is patience with those rotors, use the little screw as Marc said and make sure you don't tighten that single bridge screw until you are sure everything is OK. Remember to measure the coils to make sure they are OK. They are easily damaged.

I hope it helps....ah, btw, cousinsUK stocks coils and circuits for those but it is going to cost you...I'd rather find another watch for parts and pray the part I need is good. Those are vintage, discontinued movements...whatever you can get out there, being it the 42 or the 43, is most likely a rebuilt.

Cheers,

Bob