Jump to content

Progress On Eta 2824 Keyless Work?! Please Help Me


schtozo

Recommended Posts

Recently i tried doing some work on my watch with eta 2824 and when reinstalling the stem, things got screwed, watched a vid of mark explaining the fix of the castle gear getting out of place in relation to the yoke, i followed his steps and succeded but after stem reinstall i just couldnt hear the clicks of the stem when pulling out to the 1-2 positions, it feels kinda blank. Cant adjust date or time. A member here suggested i should look from dial side maybe keyless work was requiered... So i proceeded to dial side, removed hands and dial but im stuck at date wheel... How can i remove the date wheel to access keyless work? I watched a vid on how to, but pulling the stem to calendar mode was involved and i dont have that function atm. Any tips will be greatly appreciated. Im not profesional nor have a lot of experience pulling movements apart, do you recommend sending the movement for repair or should i keep trying? I like to learn myself and do it myself to gain experience and be proud of what i did! Please enlighten me..

Pics of what do i have atm,with crown all the way in first pic and all the way out in second pic.

post-1668-0-04295400-1451054077_thumb.jp

post-1668-0-51440900-1451054138_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the region of 10 O'clock in your photos you should turn the date wheel just half of a date setting, Then the teeth of the date wheel in that place will be opposite gaps in the retaining plate. Then just lift the wheel in that place and slide it away from the opposite retaining plate.

 

Putting it back is more difficult as you will have to engage the little spring (also at 10 O'clock) that clicks the wheel into the correct position for display of the date in the dial window. For this you will need plenty of magnification to find the little hook on the spring that allows you to pull it into place. See it in the photo below. The aforementioned holding plate with the gaps is between 14 and 17 in this photo.

 

post-374-0-75098300-1451057347.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I cant get the date wheel to turn with the crown. Do you mean like pinch it with the tweezers and try to move it manualy? I dis see the clip between 14 and 17 in my movement and modifyed a pick to be able to push it in. Atm my crown is uselss, it does go in and out but no clicks are heard, does this mean that the keyless work need to be fixed or this means something else? Anyone with similar problem?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rotate the date ring with a sharpened piece of peg wood or a cocktail stick pushing on a tooth until you have the good alignment - just a few mm. Then gently lift the ring as described.

 

The keyless works can then be accessed and put back into place - if you know how. There are several posts on the web for this repair.

 

For example: http://kronometric.org/article/eta/eta_keyless_assy.html

Edited by cdjswiss
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it's better to remove the date ring by unscrewing the screw at date 27 to remove that retaining plate since it'll be easier to access the keyless work without the retaining plate.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Agreed - but more difficult and it all depends on what needs fixing in the keyless works. Removing the date ring as I described takes two seconds.The opposite plate can be removed as a second stage if needed. Sometimes the keyless works can be sorted easily using a probe with this plate in place; but not always.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys!! Guys..... Merry christmas for all!!! Im a hero.. Sorry!! Without your help i couldnt have been able to do it. I undid and redid all the keyless work and now the crown is working properly on calendar and time settings, however the later aint confirmed because i still didnt put the hands and hence my two questions.

1- how to properly install the hands so the calendar jumps a day at 12? Ive done a couple seikos before but never could do it at exactly 12. Should i do it at around 11:45? Any method i should follow?

2- whats the safest way to put the hands? With movement stopped i assume, but do i have to wait till it stops by itself or can i hurry it and stop it somehow?

3- this is more of an advice from you, i cant feel i can take out the stem from the time setting position as you guys have adviced, is it doable? Ive only been able to take out from the winding position...

Thank you very much.

Here are some pics of my work dining table area :) yes this is jow i did all the work! Am i brave?

post-1668-0-27904500-1451081550_thumb.jp

post-1668-0-71565800-1451081567_thumb.jp

post-1668-0-28832600-1451081584_thumb.jp

post-1668-0-26538800-1451081602_thumb.jp

post-1668-0-39449600-1451081626_thumb.jp

post-1668-0-62678700-1451081646_thumb.jp

post-1668-0-58681700-1451081669_thumb.jp

post-1668-0-41512800-1451081684_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1- how to properly install the hands so the calendar jumps a day at 12? Ive done a couple seikos before but never could do it at exactly 12. Should i do it at around 11:45? Any method i should follow?

 

Congratulations - I am impressed by your result.

To set the hands: simply wind the date forward until it just changes and then set the hands at 12:00. You seem to be pretty close anyway as I guess that you used this method.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thax for the knowledge on this forum i saved myself i couple hundreds i guess. Thanks again for the warm welcome and will to help! Indeed its a great vintage watch... Im very proud of myself and ferl more confident for next time work on movements. I got myself better tools but im missing a good loupe still.. Any advice?

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • With something like this a gasket seal for instance if i cant find the relevant information i would use instinct to decide what fits and works best. You have the original gasket ( well maybe its original or hopefully it is )so its fairly easy to determine what material to use. Shape , for that i would look at the gasket seatings, are there grooves or recesses in either the case back or case or both, what shape are the grooves, flat or round etc, how does the gasket sit and behave in those seatings. Next thickness,that is going to be a bit of a guess, especially if the gasket is a soft one that has been heavily compressed over time. This is where a selection is going to come in handy, personally i would be choosing one that is giving me the feel of compression as its coming into contact with both of the mating surfaces. But not so much that the gasket is going to squash out and become distorted, again this is guesswork and feel is required with the allowance of compression over time, something you may want to check after six months. This part is a little moot as without a pressure test, good water resistance is not assured so the watch needs to treated as such and not as if it were a new diving watch ( not that i would treat any new diving watch as if were ). What you want to expect from your efforts is a little accidental rain catch, if you want more water resistance guarantee then a professional gasket replacement and pressure test is what you should be seeking which will be more than the value of this watch. Coincidentally i have the same watch, been searching for a stem for it for a while now. 
    • It might not be a hook it might be something like this. But still the mainspring is catching on something on the slip ring because it doesn't have its own outer slipping part like the modern ones. The image below came from some vintage Omega thing I'll have to see if I can find where that has gone to.documentation A different book has this          
    • I did not see a hook on the slip ring. I will check again tomorrow.
    • I think I'm having a confusion here? You would apply the breaking grease to the inside of the barrel then the slip ring would go inside. Then the mainspring goes in and it catches on the hook on the slip ring.
    • Thank you for the once again very thorough and informative reply. I'm sure at this point it's academic, but I'm always curious to know best practices. This then implies that If I'm planning to reuse the old mainspring (which I am), I should also reinstall the slip ring. I will do that and apply braking grease to the inside of the slip ring as if it were the barrel. This makes the most sense to me. Also, that bit about the center cannon pinion is very helpful. That wasn't in the tech sheet I have (attached) dated 1970. Omega 1001(1).pdf
×
×
  • Create New...