Jump to content

Hamilton Electric - gets power, sets time, hands don’t tick

edrelich
 Share

Recommended Posts

JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted
On 3/25/2025 at 8:14 AM, AndyGSi said:

demagnetiser

interesting strategy for an electric watch which typically will have permanent magnets that really don't like to be demagnetized even if they are listed as permanent.

On 3/25/2025 at 8:14 AM, AndyGSi said:

Have you got any test equipment

typically I've given up with that question because it's wishful thinking that anyone would have test equipment beyond the DVM. Test equipment for electric watch would be a variable voltage power supply, some way of measuring microamp current and a DVM for resistance and voltage.

 

On 3/24/2025 at 5:22 PM, GuyMontag said:

I finished up one of these (9154) earlier this month and am wearing it now.

while they look almost identical at least to the casual  observer I don't think this is a 9154 which is why attached the technical up above for 9150. But to be thorough I will attach the technical for the 9154 and some images I  found on the Internet so 9150 as for contacts for the coil assembly with one home attached to a screw.

image.png.c17d93fd0f33c6432feb1b81db467584.png

than the 9154 only has three contacts

ESA-9154.jpg.341a21f468894b767c1212c00e1815b1.jpg

the 9154 as a different coil arrangement were now it only has three terminals none of which are attached to the screw. So the image down below of this watch is a 9150. Although not the same all of the cleaning procedures testing etc. will all be identical other than the coil resistances current consumption will probably be a little bit different.

image.png.866a2df42c4651e9d0c4efdf42cc139d.png

 

On 3/25/2025 at 8:17 AM, GuyMontag said:

Be careful doing that. There are a couple of videos on youtube of people servicing the 9154 and neither remove the balance correctly. It is very easy to damage the coils if you don't follow the exact procedure shown in the tech sheet, which requires the movement to be removed from the case.

yes the joys of YouTube watch repair where nobody ever reads the tech sheet and is unaware of the impending doom that they typically never have but anyone following will. Yes you definitely want to look at the tech guide before you even begin the disassemble or it will be not a happy outcome.

 

On 3/25/2025 at 9:04 AM, edrelich said:

It sounds like I’ll be selling this thing as is and moving on! Anyone want it for $100? Ha

On 3/24/2025 at 9:35 AM, edrelich said:

Any thoughts? Where would I apply oil or lighter fluid?

if you are hoping for a quick squirt of lighter fluid and the watch would run I think you're out of luck. Electric watches typically have very little power and require the gear train to be extremely free moving in other words no sticky oil at all. in addition to when people change batteries it's very bad to get anything like old battery corrosion or anything else into an electric watch. So basically no quick fix here.

image.png

3540_ETA 9154.pdf

  • Like 1
GuyMontag Super WRT Addict

GuyMontag

Posted
Posted
8 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

interesting strategy for an electric watch which typically will have permanent magnets that really don't like to be demagnetized even if they are listed as permanent.

typically I've given up with that question because it's wishful thinking that anyone would have test equipment beyond the DVM. Test equipment for electric watch would be a variable voltage power supply, some way of measuring microamp current and a DVM for resistance and voltage.

 

while they look almost identical at least to the casual  observer I don't think this is a 9154 which is why attached the technical up above for 9150. But to be thorough I will attach the technical for the 9154 and some images I  found on the Internet so 9150 as for contacts for the coil assembly with one home attached to a screw.

image.png.c17d93fd0f33c6432feb1b81db467584.png

than the 9154 only has three contacts

ESA-9154.jpg.341a21f468894b767c1212c00e1815b1.jpg

the 9154 as a different coil arrangement were now it only has three terminals none of which are attached to the screw. So the image down below of this watch is a 9150. Although not the same all of the cleaning procedures testing etc. will all be identical other than the coil resistances current consumption will probably be a little bit different.

image.png.866a2df42c4651e9d0c4efdf42cc139d.png

 

yes the joys of YouTube watch repair where nobody ever reads the tech sheet and is unaware of the impending doom that they typically never have but anyone following will. Yes you definitely want to look at the tech guide before you even begin the disassemble or it will be not a happy outcome.

 

if you are hoping for a quick squirt of lighter fluid and the watch would run I think you're out of luck. Electric watches typically have very little power and require the gear train to be extremely free moving in other words no sticky oil at all. in addition to when people change batteries it's very bad to get anything like old battery corrosion or anything else into an electric watch. So basically no quick fix here.

image.png

3540_ETA 9154.pdf 2.21 MB · 0 downloads

I realized the OP had a 9150, the stop lever being underneath and not on top of the setting lever jumps out at you. The servicing is more or less the same though.

AndyGSi Distinguished Member

AndyGSi

Posted
Posted
8 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

interesting strategy for an electric watch which typically will have permanent magnets that really don't like to be demagnetized even if they are listed as permanent.

Taken from the manual..

image.png.2d4d4ca5b0906ce699e152bc3a79464c.png

JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted

 

4 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

Taken from the manual..

image.png.2d4d4ca5b0906ce699e152bc3a79464c.png

typically when people use a demagnetizer they like to do the entire watch. You will note that the balance wheel has to be removed first as it has magnets on it. So I was urging a caution of not to demagnetize the completely assembled watch. Then some electric watches have additional magnets other than on the balance wheel itself. Another reason to be cautious with electric watches.

 

Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, AndyGSi said:

Have you seen the link above with the ESA 9150 Service Manual?

Oops , had missed it. 

Thanks for informing me. 

 

  • Like 1
edrelich Member

edrelich

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 3/26/2025 at 3:27 PM, AndyGSi said:

Have you seen the link above with the ESA 9150 Service Manual?

I have but if I need a manual for the repair, it’s better that a watchmaker handles it. 

edrelich Member

edrelich

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 3/26/2025 at 5:25 PM, JohnR725 said:

 

typically when people use a demagnetizer they like to do the entire watch. You will note that the balance wheel has to be removed first as it has magnets on it. So I was urging a caution of not to demagnetize the completely assembled watch. Then some electric watches have additional magnets other than on the balance wheel itself. Another reason to be cautious with electric watches.

 

 

On 3/26/2025 at 5:17 PM, GuyMontag said:

I realized the OP had a 9150, the stop lever being underneath and not on top of the setting lever jumps out at you. The servicing is more or less the same though.

So what you’re saying is I can send this to you and you’ll fix it for me? 🙏💪👀

GuyMontag Super WRT Addict

GuyMontag

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, edrelich said:

 

So what you’re saying is I can send this to you and you’ll fix it for me? 🙏💪👀

Ha, you don't want me working on  your watch, I'm just a hobbyist 🙂 Also, my 'To Be Serviced' pile is so big I wouldn't be able to get to it for a long time...

 

TBS.thumb.jpg.18d586b551a20d294d18a9f906902fab.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Haha 3
rehajm Super WRT Addict

rehajm

Posted
Posted (edited)
57 minutes ago, GuyMontag said:

Also, my 'To Be Serviced' pile is so big I wouldn't be able to get to it for a long time...

..that makes me feel realtively sane...

Edited by rehajm
  • Like 3

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • AndyGSi
      Make groove Case steel 316L - without lathe

      By AndyGSi · Posted

      You need to bring the pad to the dial, that way you've got more control on how much pressure you apply.
    • SAMyMAS
      Make groove Case steel 316L - without lathe

      By SAMyMAS · Posted

      Thank you @AndyGSi. I will try
    • nevenbekriev
      Full plate watch, Suitable tool for adjusting & testing pallet stones?

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      Sorry I have this thread forgotten. Now, why the stones break? Several reasons: One - the old stones are crunchy. Be careful! Two - wrong tweezers. Use brass ones. Three - wrong approach. The best way is not to grasp the stone close to working side. Grasp it for the middle part, the tweezers direction to be perpendicular to the stone. Use oscillating tilting movements when moving the stone.  Now several tips that are not read from the books, but found in my practice. They are good for my way of correcting pallet stones position: You don't need the heater for adjusting the stones position. The heater will be needed only to glue/fix the stone when the adjustment is already done.  The stone should seat tight enough in the slot without gluing. Tight enough so the movement will work normally and thus checking if the adjustment is correct is to be done before gluing. If the stone is loose in the slot, then heating and melting the shellac will make the stone move in by the capillary force. So, if the stone is loose in the slot, then find out if the stone is not correct or the slot is opened. If the slot is opened, then (in steel pallet forks) it is good idea to anneal locally only the small part that forms the slot before trying to close the slot. Also, put in the slot something slightly thinner than the pallet to limit the amount of bending If the stone must go out, the shellac can stay in place, it will not make the adjustment harder. Just bend the stone to break the bond between the shellac and stone. Then heating only will glue the stone again if the shellac is not old and degraded. If the stone must go in, then the shellac mus be removed from the slot bottom as to make space for the stone to go in. I often use pallet stones from USSR Slava alarm clock for pocket watches repair. Slava pallet stones are usually bigger (wider) than needed) and I grind/lap them to correct size for the slot. Grinding is of the side that never contacts the EW teeth. It is enough to put the stone on the lapping plate, pres on it with finger and move it forward/reverse several times while pressing, then check in the slot.  
    • mbwatch
      Looking to try servicing an old movement

      By mbwatch · Posted

      I used a small ultrasonic for years until it died, but it does need to be large enough to fit jars in to hold your parts, and small parts ideally are in mesh baskets within the jars so you are not fishing them out one by one with tweezers. So the one you linked might be too small and this kind of thing really the minimum workable size
    • AndyGSi
      Make groove Case steel 316L - without lathe

      By AndyGSi · Posted

      You'll probably find when you get the dial it's slightly under the stated size to start with. Depending on the dial I'd mount it on a mandrel then spin it in a drill using a hard sanding pad to reduce the diameter.
×
×
  • Create New...