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Posted (edited)

Hi there.

Watchmaking is packed with specialized tools, each designed for a single task. Unfortunately, when it comes to fitting a watch crystal, hands, and back case, these tasks each require tools with distinct designs, so a single tool that effectively handles all three doesn't really exist. However, after doing some research it seems there are some versatile tools and workarounds that can minimize your toolkit:

1. Crystal Press

  • A crystal press, with a set of interchangeable dies, can sometimes be adapted to press watch hands or close snap-on case backs.
  • While not ideal for hands (precision alignment is crucial), it works well for crystals and case backs if you have the right dies for the job

2. Hand-Setting Tool with Adaptations

  • Hand-setting tools are small and precise, usually limited to fitting watch hands. However, some advanced models might have replaceable tips that allow for more flexibility.

3. Case Press with Adjustable Dies - This is likely the best bet for versatility. With the correct dies, a case press can:

  • Fit watch crystals.
  • Close snap-on back cases.
  • (Potentially) press hands with very careful setup.

I am more interested in point no. 3, and therefore I am looking for recommendations and potentially pros and cons of using a case press with interchangeable dies. I am also not that interested in the extremely expensive brands, but rather something within the mid range. 

Thank you.

 

Edited by dancad
Posted

A press to double up duty as caseback and crystal press is the norm, there is an order of magnitude difference between these functions and hand setting however. A multiple use tool that can be used for hands, jewel setting and cannon pinion adjustment would be the clone of the Horia jewelling tool.

using a crystal press to set hands is literally a sledgehammer to crack a nut

 

Tom

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Posted
  On 1/28/2025 at 8:30 AM, tomh207 said:

using a crystal press to set hands is literally a sledgehammer to crack a nut

Expand  

Hi Tom. Thanks for your reply.

The cystal/case back press seems a bit too chunky for hands indeed, however I was thinking that maybe due to the wheel handle on a Robur press, for example, that I've seen online, you can perhaps easily control the amount of pressure you apply when attaching the hands. 

Is Robur a brand that you can recommend for at least those two tasks ?

Dan

Posted

Never been a lover of the hand fitting presses and always do them by hand.

image.thumb.png.f1fb4198f437423524643c793929cdcc.png

Again never been into any fancy crystal or back tool so use these.

image.thumb.png.aabdf8bc3faf4b0a88c5968bfdf28afc.png

image.thumb.png.dbe237c7c666ebd929e75f279efa6bc9.png

  On 1/28/2025 at 8:41 AM, dancad said:

Is Robur a brand that you can recommend for at least those two tasks ?

Expand  

Based on this experience then no.

 

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Posted (edited)
  On 1/28/2025 at 8:42 AM, AndyGSi said:

Never been a lover of the hand fitting presses and always do them by hand.

image.thumb.png.f1fb4198f437423524643c793929cdcc.png

Again never been into any fancy crystal or back tool so use these.

image.thumb.png.aabdf8bc3faf4b0a88c5968bfdf28afc.png

image.thumb.png.dbe237c7c666ebd929e75f279efa6bc9.png

Based on this experience then no.

 

Expand  

For now I am still using the hand fitting tool set which I bought from Amazon just to get me started, but it doesn't seem so precise and I already managed to bend a few hands. Either because of lack of experience or poor quality of those tools, or both. I've watched this guy on (Wristwatch Revival) youtube making those great watch restoration videos and in one of his videos I've seen this beautiful press is using for fitting the hands...seems so satisfying and very precise...

 

Screenshot 2025-01-28 at 10.09.33.png

Screenshot 2025-01-28 at 10.09.44.png

Edited by dancad
Posted (edited)
  On 1/28/2025 at 8:30 AM, tomh207 said:

A press to double up duty as caseback and crystal press is the norm, there is an order of magnitude difference between these functions and hand setting however. A multiple use tool that can be used for hands, jewel setting and cannon pinion adjustment would be the clone of the Horia jewelling tool.

using a crystal press to set hands is literally a sledgehammer to crack a nut

 

Tom

Expand  

Absolutely Tom

  On 1/28/2025 at 8:41 AM, dancad said:

I was thinking that maybe due to the wheel handle on a Robur press, for example, that I've seen online, you can perhaps easily control the amount of pressure you apply when attaching the hands. 

Expand  

I just fainted.

It's ok Im starting to come round and the missus has a strong cuppa on the way for me. It must have been bad because I'm missing words out, just give me a few minutes to compose myself.

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
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Posted
  On 1/28/2025 at 9:28 AM, Neverenoughwatches said:

I just fainted.

It's ok Im starting to come round and the missus has a strong cuppa on the way for. 

Expand  

Blimey, you had me worried for a second there! Glad you're back among the living—sounds like the missus and a strong cuppa have life-saving powers. Don't forget to thank her for her heroic brew!

Thanks for stepping by.

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Posted
  On 1/28/2025 at 9:10 AM, dancad said:

 

Screenshot 2025-01-28 at 10.09.33.png

Expand  

This looks a bit risky, by the way. The press pusher extends over the round base of the hand and presses on the actual hand (on the left). Like this, you are more likely to bend the hand. Marshall should better have chosen a slightly smaller pusher.

 

as others have said, definitely can't use a case press for hands.

 

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Posted

Ok I'm back to normal..just...I dont know what happened there..some sort of shock to my system. 🤔 placing hands...nothing too spectacular...for me just tweezers to position the hands and a modified pointy stick to push them on. Look at the alignments through 12 hours of adjustment, adjust it if needed, pick up the movement....check the clearances between them the dial, indices, lume dots, whatever might be in the way through a full 12 hours of hand adjustment. Check them for parallel for cystal clearance...check that they are not loose...tighten if necessary...I think thats about it.

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Posted
  On 1/28/2025 at 9:44 AM, Knebo said:

This looks a bit risky, by the way. The press pusher extends over the round base of the hand and presses on the actual hand (on the left). Like this, you are more likely to bend the hand. Marshall should better have chosen a slightly smaller pusher.

 

as others have said, definitely can't use a case press for hands.

 

Expand  

Even with experience, mistakes can still happen— I guess it's all part of the learning process. That's why I'm here: to gain knowledge and minimize those mistakes as much as possible. When it comes to fitting watch hands, do you prefer using a dedicated hand-setting tool or a press for the job?

Dan.

Posted
  On 1/28/2025 at 9:44 AM, dancad said:

Blimey, you had me worried for a second there! Glad you're back among the living—sounds like the missus and a strong cuppa have life-saving powers. Don't forget to thank her for her heroic brew!

Thanks for stepping by.

Expand  

Glad you saw the funny side of it 😉

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Posted
  On 1/28/2025 at 9:49 AM, Neverenoughwatches said:

Glad you saw the funny side of it 😉

Expand  

Oh, absolutely. I remember years ago visiting a watchmaker’s shop to get my watch serviced—what an experience! That dry, sarcastic sense of humor seems to be a hallmark of the trade. Honestly, watchmakers are a very special breed—kind of like the IT crowd but with fewer keyboards and more tiny screws.

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Posted
  On 1/28/2025 at 9:48 AM, dancad said:

Even with experience, mistakes can still happen— I guess it's all part of the learning process. That's why I'm here: to gain knowledge and minimize those mistakes as much as possible. When it comes to fitting watch hands, do you prefer using a dedicated hand-setting tool or a press for the job?

Dan.

Expand  

I used the simple, hand-held hand setting tools (that @AndyGSi showed) for the longest time. It worked just fine. 

Only recently, I managed to pick up a vintage, dedicated hands press for 50 bucks and I love using it. But it's definitely one of the last tools you really need.

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Posted
  On 1/28/2025 at 9:54 AM, dancad said:

Oh, absolutely. I remember years ago visiting a watchmaker’s shop to get my watch serviced—what an experience! That dry, sarcastic sense of humor seems to be a hallmark of the trade. Honestly, watchmakers are a very special breed—kind of like the IT crowd but with fewer keyboards and more tiny screws.

Expand  

I definitely have a screw loose somewhere....if only I could find it.  You're a good sport Dan...you took it on the chin and volleyed one back...good man...I'm impressed 🙂

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Posted
  On 1/28/2025 at 9:54 AM, dancad said:

Oh, absolutely. I remember years ago visiting a watchmaker’s shop to get my watch serviced—what an experience! That dry, sarcastic sense of humor seems to be a hallmark of the trade. Honestly, watchmakers are a very special breed—kind of like the IT crowd but with fewer keyboards and more tiny screws.

Expand  

I must be destined for this then, soldier, IT now watch fiddling 🤪😂

I have a cheap hand setting press, used it once and now it sits at the back of a shelf collecting dust. I exclusively use the hand tools though if I ever get around to chronographs I would be tempted to make some delrin/acetal pushers for my Horia clone.

 

Tom

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Posted
  On 1/28/2025 at 10:01 AM, Neverenoughwatches said:

I definitely have a screw loose somewhere....if only I could find it.  You're a good sport Dan...you took it on the chin and volleyed one back...good man...I'm impressed 🙂

Expand  

Haha, well, if you’ve got a screw loose, you’re already halfway to becoming a watchmaker—now you just need a loupe and a steady hand! And thanks, I try to keep up—it’s all about the banter, isn’t it? Keep ‘em coming, you’ve got a sharp wit yourself! Let's increase those numbers !

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Posted
  On 1/28/2025 at 10:01 AM, tomh207 said:

I would be tempted to make some delrin/acetal pushers for my Horia clone.

Expand  

Yes, I've looked around for the longest time to find a way to use my staking set or Seitz tools. But I don't have a lathe nor 3D printer. So didn't find a good way to do that.

 

 

By the way, @tomh207, if you want to spend a lot of money 😅, Horia sells hand fitting pushers for their tool (I'd assume that they'd fit the clone, too??)

the set: https://www.horia.ch/en/Products/Jewellling-Setting-staking-tools/Set-of-pushers-and-anvils/Set-of-pushers-for-hands.html

individual pushers: https://www.horia.ch/en/Products/Jewellling-Setting-staking-tools/Pumppushersandanvils/Pushers-and-anvils-for-hands/Pusher-in-steel-and-delrin-only-N-1-N-11.html

Posted
  On 1/28/2025 at 9:48 AM, dancad said:

Even with experience, mistakes can still happen— I guess it's all part of the learning process. That's why I'm here: to gain knowledge and minimize those mistakes as much as possible. When it comes to fitting watch hands, do you prefer using a dedicated hand-setting tool or a press for the job?

Dan.

Expand  

Sooo anyway after that short banter...personally I can't use any sort of hand press...i tried but visually it just doesn't work for. I would use it and want to pick it up and look at the movement from all angles to make sure I was happy. After a short while I excluded the press and just learnt to do it free hand. Once they are on and reasonably secure...pick up the movement..in its holder or case ...whatever the case may be , inspect and adjust at the same time with a pointy stick ( not a euphemism ) probe with a hole 🤷‍♂️

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Posted (edited)
  On 1/28/2025 at 10:13 AM, Neverenoughwatches said:

Sooo anyway after that short banter...personally I can't use any sort of hand press...i tried but visually it just doesn't work for. I would use it and want to pick it up and look at the movement from all angles to make sure I was happy. After a short while I excluded the press and just learnt to do it free hand. Once they are on and reasonably secure...pick up the movement..in its holder or case ...whatever the case may be , inspect and adjust at the same time with a pointy stick ( not a euphemism ) probe with a hole 🤷‍♂️

Expand  

I will definitely stick to the hand tool set for now but I need to find a better set. The ones I bought for around 8 euros from Amazon are really bad quality, especially after I checked them under the loupe. 

Should I go for better brands like Horotec or Bergeon for these tools ?

While looking for hands press I came across this one from eBay at 30euro...looks solid. 

 

Screenshot 2025-01-28 at 11.25.04.png

Edited by dancad
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Posted
  On 1/28/2025 at 10:22 AM, dancad said:

Should I go for better brands like Horotec or Bergeon for these tools ?

Expand  

I don't think it's worth it. You can never hold you hand perfectly perpendicular (hence the need to check+adjust as @Neverenoughwatches explains). So there's no need to have a tool that is perfect. 

If you forget about the look under the loupe, do your hand-held tools work in practice (after checking, adjusting, checking, adjusting)? 

The check ones on Cousins have worked well enough for me. But I'm sure they won't look too perfect under the loupe/microscope, either.

 

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Posted
  On 1/28/2025 at 10:22 AM, dancad said:

I will definitely stick to the hand tool set for now but I need to find a better set. The ones I bought for around 8 euros from Amazon are really bad quality, especially after I checked them under the loupe. 

Should I go for better brands like Horotec or Bergeon for these tools ?

While looking for hands press I came across this one from eBay at 30euro...looks solid. 

 

Screenshot 2025-01-28 at 11.25.04.png

Expand  

These look like metal tips which is not what you want to be using.

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Posted
  On 1/28/2025 at 10:22 AM, dancad said:

I will definitely stick to the hand tool set for now but I need to find a better set. The ones I bought for around 8 euros from Amazon are really bad quality, especially after I checked them under the loupe. 

Should I go for better brands like Horotec or Bergeon for these tools ?

Expand  

Its always best to go for good quality if you can afford it, which in this case probably won't be too much for bergeon or horotec. Honestly I dont even have that, might be nice to ...but mine is literally a pointy stick with different plastic tips...those i use for adjustment, to press hands on I use a taped up flat steel bar with a hole in it...that I use on its flat..this has really good control over applied  pressure compared to an upright stick.

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Posted

@Knebo I do know of the Horia ones lovingly crafted by vestal virgins and QA’d by angels from unicorn horns. That’s what made me think of making them from delrin or maybe nylon.

I think Rich @Neverenoughwatches touched on something unintentionally, unless you are using a height adjustable desk or a proper watchmaker bench it is a struggle to see properly, hold the press, place the hands and operate the press all at once. The usual watchmaker conundrum of needing 3 hands for the job.

 

Tom

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Posted
  On 1/28/2025 at 10:29 AM, Knebo said:

I don't think it's worth it. You can never hold you hand perfectly perpendicular (hence the need to check+adjust as @Neverenoughwatches explains). So there's no need to have a tool that is perfect. 

If you forget about the look under the loupe, do your hand-held tools work in practice (after checking, adjusting, checking, adjusting)? 

The check ones on Cousins have worked well enough for me. But I'm sure they won't look too perfect under the loupe/microscope, either.

 

Expand  

Pretty much my thoughts Knebo...you get used to what you use...whatever they are.  But as Andy points out metal on a finished surface 🤔 not so great idea. 

Posted
  On 1/28/2025 at 9:54 AM, dancad said:

That dry, sarcastic sense of humor seems to be a hallmark of the trade.

Expand  

There’s something to what you’re saying. When I’ve spoken to professional watchmakers over the phone (which I stopped doing a long time ago) to seek advice or inquire about spare parts, I’ve definitely gotten the feeling that they’re thinking, “Another idiot who thinks servicing watches is as easy as servicing cars.” Eventually, it becomes an “occupational hazard.”

That, in turn, reminds me of a female student I had a few years ago who was above-average attractive. Every time I came near her to show or explain something, she reacted as if I were a drunk, obnoxious man trying to hit on her. And trust me, as a teacher, if you’re not professional and on top of your game in the private education sector I work in, you’re out of the game in no time. At a later point, I discussed this student with my boss and explained that her attitude could become a problem in a future workplace. I said she reacts as if she were working as a bartender in a nightclub, surrounded by a bunch of drunk, horny guys trying to get her into bed. My boss raised an eyebrow, looked down at her CV, and noted that she had primarily worked as a bartender! Speaking of occupational hazards!

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