Crown gasket replacement
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I was thinking what makes you think that Rolex made the screws in their watch? Here's an interesting link talks about the balance wheel and the Parachrom Blue hairpspring. So a very clear indication of a counterfeit Rolex is the lack of this blue hairspring. Except watch was made for 34 years wonder if they ever changed anything or did every single watch be made to an exact specification all those years? Oh and the nifty blue hairspring came into existence around 2011 they actually have two types of materials for hairsprings so they blue hairspring just indicates it's the newer hairspring. https://seikoparts.wordpress.com/2023/07/03/rolex-3130-3135-balance/ Here's an interesting site https://calibercorner.com/rolex-caliber-3135/ Watchmaking has such an interesting definition doesn't it? Like for instance your company making movements do you make 100% of all the parts or could you outsource things like screws for instance? Then conceivably if you made a movement over a long time span as I mentioned before can things change? Or in the case of Rolex I always find this story interesting. https://timefiles.ch/post/how-it-took-rolex-a-century-to-own-its-movement-manufacture/
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Well that's surprised me as there's nothing about a 956.414 with Date@6 so looked into it further and it's just a Dial swap.
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Update on this project. Where it was left last week, I was not quite getting an unlock on the entry stone and had to start adjusting it inward. Following Nev's advice to push it all the way back and then gradually move it out until it had correct action with the escape wheel, I moved it not enough on the first two attempts. First time it didn't lock at all, second time it just barely caught the escape tooth and the watch ran with about 10° of amplitude and the balance merely wiggling back & forth. I attempted to move it again and the front edge of the entry stone fragmented away. It was possibly fractured during the many reassembly rounds. Darn. Well I have a couple of additional Elgin 18s watches made in the same decade that take the same fork and stones (x546 old style) so I swapped in a different fork with good stones. It didn't lock at all, both stones needing to come out. I removed shellac and starting with the exit stone which was worse than entry, and it also fractured as soon as I grasped it with tweezers to pull it out. So clearly my technique at pulling pallet stones out is poor. I now have 1 fork with a good entry stone and bad exit stone, and another fork with a bad entry stone and good exit stone. Next step is obvious to combine them and hope not to damage another impulse face. Otto Frei is so far the only source I have found for Elgin pallet stones, but at $30 that is as much as I paid for both my inoperable 18s movements. elginwatchparts.com does not list separate numbers (nor do ofrei) for entry and exit stones on the older Elgin 18s. Does this mean they are the same stone pointing different directions? On the bright side, I let the watch run with the broken entry stone and it actually did tick at about 100° of amplitude and no lubrication. So I had at least gotten close with positioning the entry stone before I attempted to swap the forks.
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