Jump to content

Just won't run after cleaning - Waltham 8 days - Car Watch

Dmitry
 Share

Recommended Posts

Dmitry WRT Addict

Dmitry

Posted
Posted

Hello,

I have a supersized Waltham 8 Day Model 1910 car watch. I mounted it on an improvised dash and it was brightening up my day on my desk. One day winding stopped working. I took it apart, washed the parts and put it back tobether with proper lubrication, but, oh horror - it did not spring back to life! It wants to go, but it feels as though something is not quite giving it enough power.

When I remove the pallet fork and give it just a bit of a wind, the train spins nicely, even with just a bit of a touch to either of the two mainspring barrels - yep, it has two!

Then with the removed pallet fork I mount the balance wheel and it spins nicely back and forth with good amplitude.

However, when I put the pallet fork back together, with a few turns on the wind the fork snaps back and forth with a bit of a touch, just as it should, but when I put the balance wheel back in, the escape wheel just does not advance, as though there is not enough power in the train, although I know there is. As soon as I take the pallet fork out (I block the minute wheel to not damage the fork on removal), the train starts spinning with a whine. The pallet fork was the only part I have not cleaned or touched when servicing the movement, so I am at a loss here. The watch now winds just fine, I think it was a lubrication issue and a few screws were lose.

One more observation - when I push the minute wheel jently to apply more pressure to the train, the balance wheel start working just as it should, but when I let go, it loses power and stops advancing the escape wheel.

I have recorded a brief video with the microscope of what is going on.

First I show how the escape wheel just does nto advance, and at about 16 seconds I push the minute wheel to get it all going, os it loses power and stops advancing the escape wheel.

https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArG5E62RGctxjsxdA7PBWVk7juMiwQ?e=qJNFuQ

Thank you for any suggestions.

caseback WRT Addict

caseback

Posted
Posted

From what little I see, it's a low jewel movement (no jewels on the escape wheel)? Have you checked for wear ( side- and endshake) on the train? With the pallet fork removed, it's easy for the wheels to spin as there is little tension on them creating friction. That changes with the pallet fork in place. If there is too much play, wheels and pivots are pushed sideways or up/down causing a loss of power.

  • Like 1
nevenbekriev Distinguished Member

nevenbekriev

Posted
Posted

Hi Dmitry,

I can guess that may be You have decided that the banking pins were bent out and have straightened them, may be just a little? Now the 'run to the banking' on exit pallet is not enough and the tooth that is higher than the others (yes, always one is higher, no mater they are the same), can't pass. Or may be the exit pallet has moved somehow a little out, or may be the pallet fork cock has free play and it's legs doesn't fix it in one exact place reliably...This can be solved by several ways, and long conversation is which way is the correct one. If the cock can be shifted, then slightly untighten the screw(s) and press the cock to direction as to enlarge distance between the fork and escape wheel, then tighten again. If the cock is well fixed (as it should be) and don't move, then the simplest thing You can do is to open a little the corresponding banking pin (if You look from watchmaker side, the balance is down and escape wheel up, then this is the right side pin).

Do You speak Russian? It will be much easier for me to write such things in Russian...

  • Like 2
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

To me it looks as if the power isn't getting through. Check all the train teeth, pivots, pivot holes and even the barrel and it's teeth. If all is well then it is down to the escapement. 

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • tonydagee
      Calendar work certina 25-651

      By tonydagee · Posted

      Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • tIB
      Unusual Seiko dial damage

      By tIB · Posted

      Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • Malocchio
      Unusual Seiko dial damage

      By Malocchio · Posted

      I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • nickelsilver
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By nickelsilver · Posted

      I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • SidKop
      Opinions on Seiko's 4R and 6R movement quality from those more able to judge

      By SidKop · Posted

      I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...