Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So you need a 3d printer in order to have this. I wonder is the other parts that you need are available say in the UK because that is where I live. It looks a nice cleaning machine.  

Posted
3 hours ago, rossjackson01 said:

Have a look

 

Looks good, maybe a little complicated to put together. So certainly some effort, time and headscratching involved if you're not particularly tech savvy. Personally i like the more simple approach of diy cobbling, you dont end up with anything automated so the cleaning operation is a bit more hands on. But you have something simple, cheap, less to go wrong , easy to fix if it does, but in essence cleans just as well. Look at the diy watch cleaning thread Ross, there are some simple ideas in there if you feel you want to make something. 

Posted (edited)

Never. Good comment about the DIY thread. Yes I have seen it. Adapted a few thing to make my own systems of cleaning. 

Adam and Gentlemen are my 'go to' for inspiration.

I only have about 18" by 18" as my working area for cleaning.

I have adapted. This is my system.

 

After disassemble and checking I begin the clean with pegwood and lighter fluid. Fiber brush if needed.

Everything , except shellac items, balance bridge and pallet fork, into lighter fluid jar. Large items at base and others into baskets.

Jar into ultrasonic warm water. 3 x 2 min. Balance and Pallet in small tray and lighter fluid dripped and allowed to gently clean.

All blow dried

Everything from jar moved into 2nd jar containing Isopropyl alcohol. Ultrasonic 3 x 2 min.  Balance and pallet dripped with Alcohol for under 1 min.

Everything out and placed under nail blower for 10 min.

Before assembly I recheck all parts for damage. This is when I make my decision to order parts as I can see what needs to be done.

My system in now pretty good. Well, at least for an amateur.

 

 

Edited by rossjackson01
Spelling, Grammar
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, rossjackson01 said:

Never. Good comment about the DIY thread. Yes I have seen it. Adapted a few thing to make my own systems of cleaning. 

Adam and Gentlemen are my 'go to' for inspiration.

I only have about 18" by 18" as my working area for cleaning.

I have adapted. This is my system.

 

After disassemble and checking I begin the clean with pegwood and lighter fluid. Fiber brush if needed.

Everything , except shellac items, balance bridge and pallet fork, into lighter fluid jar. Large items at base and others into baskets.

Jar into ultrasonic warm water. 3 x 2 min. Balance and Pallet in small tray and lighter fluid dripped and allowed to gently clean.

All blow dried

Everything from jar moved into 2nd jar containing Isopropyl alcohol. Ultrasonic 3 x 2 min.  Balance and pallet dripped with Alcohol for under 1 min.

Everything out and placed under nail blower for 10 min.

Before assembly I recheck all parts for damage. This is when I make my decision to order parts as I can see what needs to be done.

My system in now pretty good. Well, at least for an amateur.

 

 

That sounds good Ross. I'll mention a couple of things if thats ok,that may or may not help and you may already be aware of them. If i start at the top, the pegwood and lighter fluid for pre cleaning 👍, not all lighter fluids are the same though and it can be difficult to work out what you have. So lighter fluid is mostly naptha, also known by many other names such as benzine, probably more accurately described as petroleum ether. Lighter fluid also has other ingredients that relate to what it is actually used for ie. to improve the flame necessary to burn with the use of a fluid fill lighter and it could be these other chemical ingredients that often leave a residue on the surface of watch parts that many of us see ( try the drop on a mirror test ). So logically we want to make use of the same cleaning ability of petroleum ether but without the added ingredients that cause residue. We can do this by purchasing pure grade petroleum ether which is available from Ebay, I've just had a look and its around £25 / litre 🤫 yes it is more expensive than lighter fluid, i guess maybe a tenner more per litre. So just a couple of notes to add to this, when choosing a lighter fluid, naptha, benzine, whatever you want to call it or the form you buy it in, try to get hold of one that is labelled " light distilled " or "light naptha " also sometimes called " light aliphatic "  this is the carbon to hydrogen ratio, an example of its equation might be something like  C3   H6 , its these two symbols that tell you how light or heavy the naptha is.  The higher the H ( hydrogen) atom value is the lighter the chemical is and will evaporate quicker.  High C ( carbon ) atom naphtha is heavier , evaporates more slowly and may be the cause of too much left residue on watch part surfaces. So in summary aim for a higher H value than C carbon value on the label. I'll find a good example of what to look for and come back with it. Other things to note are 1. A professional brand cleaner like Elma or L n R is probably cheaper than the petroleum ether, certainly when the ether is bought in one litre bottles and it could even be cheaper than the lighter fluid which is in the region of £1.50 for 100ml - 120ml tins. So thats more or less covered the cleaner to use, but now try soaking your pegwood in your cleaner ( lighter fluid ) before pegging the jewels, it will soften the pegwood making it a more pliable dirt dissolving tool 👍.

1 hour ago, rossjackson01 said:

Never. Good comment about the DIY thread. Yes I have seen it. Adapted a few thing to make my own systems of cleaning. 

Adam and Gentlemen are my 'go to' for inspiration.

I only have about 18" by 18" as my working area for cleaning.

I have adapted. This is my system.

 

After disassemble and checking I begin the clean with pegwood and lighter fluid. Fiber brush if needed.

Everything , except shellac items, balance bridge and pallet fork, into lighter fluid jar. Large items at base and others into baskets.

Jar into ultrasonic warm water. 3 x 2 min. Balance and Pallet in small tray and lighter fluid dripped and allowed to gently clean.

All blow dried

Everything from jar moved into 2nd jar containing Isopropyl alcohol. Ultrasonic 3 x 2 min.  Balance and pallet dripped with Alcohol for under 1 min.

Everything out and placed under nail blower for 10 min.

Before assembly I recheck all parts for damage. This is when I make my decision to order parts as I can see what needs to be done.

My system in now pretty good. Well, at least for an amateur.

 

 

You can leave any watch parts that have shellac on them soaking in lighter fluid, i used to do it all the time when i started and was using light fluid and i know oldhippy did this as well when he was in the trade. I've done it overnight before without any problem to the shellac, so a couple of hours soak will be absolutely fine. Its just NOT to do that with the isopropyl as that will almost certainly soften the shellac .

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
    • Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
    • Id love to see how he has the output shaft mounted to this setup, as I have the same rotary stage and stepper in my build.
    • If you see at least one thread protruding, or even a half, then you may have a chance using this "tool", but don't squeeze hard. Lot's of patience, and if you notice any signs of loctite or other adhesives, then apply several drops of acetone on top of broken stem. Use heat (hair dryer) also. You should be able gradually turn it counterclockwise, just like i did on this broken Timex stem, which was glued with something like nail hardener. Then you can use an extender to save your broken stem. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/513DVvkfW5L.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg   You can also try cutting a small grove / slot on top of the broken stem to use 0.7mm flat screwdriver.   Depending on the Crown material and Stem material, you can try dissolving the stem. 
×
×
  • Create New...