Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello,

I have started learning to work on watches a week ago on an ST36.  I have the technical datasheet for the ETA 6497 and I read everywhere that one is a clone of the other.

That surprises me a bit because the bridge structure is clearly completely different (one barrel bridge which does not cover the central wheel, one gear train bridge for the center, second and third wheel, one cock for the escapement.

So what makes it a clone?  Is it the arrangement of the main plate and things like the keyless works?

Posted

Clone doesn't always exactly mean the exact copy. I have a couple links below which talk about the movement notice that also has a variety of number variations but basically they're all the same watch even if they look different. Then minor little technical difference they're not actually a clone of a 6497 because that runs in 18,000 beats per hour it's a clone of a 6497–2 Which runs at 21,600.

https://calibercorner.com/seagull-caliber-st3600k/

 

https://seagull1963.com/st36/discovering-the-seagull-st36-movement/

https://calibercorner.com/eta-unitas-caliber-6497-1-vs-6497-2/

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Well I actually looked more into it and I think the answer is the following:

ST36/3600 is not a clone of ETA6497 it is a clone of OP XI which is a derivation of the ETA.

And when you look at both they are actually complete clones (the beat, the bridge shapes even the decoration).

 

Posted

One of the usual problems with clones are they may visually look right but in the case of the Chinese there will be variations. Like for instance this comes up quite a bit the Incabloc they skip a manufacturing step or two which is why the spring falls out versus the original where it typically does not come out conveniently.

The other amusing problem with Chinese watches are trying to actually identify who made the watch and exactly what it really is or is not because typically they do not put markings on them like the Swiss do. 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
    • Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
    • Id love to see how he has the output shaft mounted to this setup, as I have the same rotary stage and stepper in my build.
    • If you see at least one thread protruding, or even a half, then you may have a chance using this "tool", but don't squeeze hard. Lot's of patience, and if you notice any signs of loctite or other adhesives, then apply several drops of acetone on top of broken stem. Use heat (hair dryer) also. You should be able gradually turn it counterclockwise, just like i did on this broken Timex stem, which was glued with something like nail hardener. Then you can use an extender to save your broken stem. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/513DVvkfW5L.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg   You can also try cutting a small grove / slot on top of the broken stem to use 0.7mm flat screwdriver.   Depending on the Crown material and Stem material, you can try dissolving the stem. 
×
×
  • Create New...