Jump to content

ETA 2824-2/Sellita SW200-1 Set Bridge Compatibility


Recommended Posts

I have part number 445/1327 (set bridge for the 2-click, no date versions) for an ETA 2824-2 (and others), and wondering if it might fit on a Sellita SW200-1. From what I've read about where the parts are different, it doesn't look like this is likely one of them, but I'd like to be sure before flushing money. Trying to move away from ETA when and where I can... Anyone know the answer or know where applicable references might be found?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe it is something like partnumber/drawingnumber ??

eg. 1327 is their internal reference for a series (or first series?) of movements that use that part.

So, everything using the old short number for the 2824-2 would be a /1327

The numbering is weird; on a 2006 technical sheet for the 2824-2, it gives the short numbers plus xx.xxx.xx format numbers, but on a 2015 technical sheet the part number is "7613226043831"

 

Both sheets call the 455 part a Setting lever jumper.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quite possibly.

The 2006 service sheet is totally confusing - it starts out showing which movements have two or three position (2801-2 being two position) then gives a single part for the 455-2 against all movements, & that is shown clearly in the diagram as three position.

The 2015 version only shows three position movements.

 

Searching just ETA 445, the 445 part seems to mean "setting level spring", in any ETA movement?? 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad I'm not the only one who's confused. 

It hardly seems conclusive, but I think there are enough pointers to suggest that the setting lever spring is one of the interchangeable parts. I have the ETA part in hand, and need to replace the movement. The two-position movements are more difficult to find generally. I'd like to switch to the Sellita, which means I'd need to remove the date wheel, etc. and swap the setting lever spring. It's a pretty simple part, and we know the macro parts and the relationships involved are almost certainly unchanged between manufacturers (if you can even say that, since Sellita was often the manufacturer for ETA). It's a flat plate with holes otherwise, and it's not like they can swap studs and holes around like they do with the plates...

If I'm wrong about the $8 part, I have to hunt down a new one. I don't know how easy it is to find Sellita parts, but they're supposedly not spending millions to keep us from buying them. I haven't had any Sellita movements come across my bench needing parts so far... I could also see if I can find a dateless movement for a similar price to the dateful movements, and just save myself the whole affair, but last time I tried they were harder to find and considerably more expensive. Worst case scenario, I can't find a dateless SW-200 (whatever the exact movement number is), and the part doesn't interchange cleanly. Then I'm stuck with a ghost position... I can take out everything but the spring, and it'll at least not be an issue setting the watch during changeover (if that's even a thing for this movement).

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • One-dip or naphtha should be safe, but are you sure it isn't magnetized?  I would also check that.  Although, if that balance is from an Elgin 760 0r 761, I would think it would have a hairspring of non-magnetic alloy.
    • Hi, Is there a spell check function available when you are posting ? Regards CJ
    • Hi John I just did a Seiko Lord-Matic a front loader without a split stem, I used a crystal lift to remove it, although I had to have it that tight I though I was going to break the lift before the crystal would budge. So I decided that the press would be a better option as I think crystals with tension rings resist a lot of compressing. I used a crystal press to repalce it and the bezel with no issues, obviuosly a different watch to the Omega. I just took my time and kept inspecting the installation progress bit by bit Regards CJ
    • Hello All, I’m replacing the crystal in an Omega Dynamic, # 165.039, which houses a cal 552, installed through the front of the case. The replacement Sterncreuz crystal is, like the original, with tension ring. I removed the crystal using a compressed air technique to pop it out.  (I have a crystal lift, but I’m always fearful of marking the crystal edges and so avoid using it as much as possible). Now to the replacement -  any tips on putting the crystal back in?  Am I obliged to using my dreaded crystal lift to complete the task, or how about a crystal press?  I’ve put lots of crystals in using a press, but never with the movement in the watch. The thought of using one with a front-loader makes me very nervous, with the fully assembled watch sitting under the press. How would more experienced folks proceed here? Any advice, gratefully received… John Down Under…
    • No thats straight out of the watch as i found it the balance wheel is almost as bad. I've never seen so much material removed.
×
×
  • Create New...