Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi to all! After I got my HAC up and running with great help from here (thank you again!) I have gone back to tinkering with cuckoo clocks and I have a new problem.. I have a 1950s cuckoo with a music box and the music man attachment wire is broken and he needs to be re-attached. (His head was also cracked, but that was easy to deal with .. even if I could not make him look very happy, lol !). I had to deal with quite a bit of rust all over the movement, I have cleaned things the best I could and I need to try to reattach the wooden man.. but how?? I am a total new learner on my own... I assume I have to try to solder the wire attachment? But what kind of solder wire should I use and what temperature etc etc?  (Is there a particular solder iron I should look for as I do not yet own one. I only own and have ever used a wood burning iron, hah.) I don't want to end up ruining the music box as it actually does sound quite lovely despite it's ratty look. Thanks again in advance for any helpful suggestions!! I will attach an image here too. The yellow circle shows the area where the music man should be perched on.

Music man.jpg

Posted

Hi. Soldering is quite straight forward, the main thing is cleaning the areas to be soldered treating with flux and using resin core solder all available fron hardware stores. Soldering irons come in all shapes and sizes. Pistol grip irons , straight tip, spade tip , round tip.  I personally have a seller workstation with four interchangeable tips, probably best value because it covers most bases. But again depends how much you are going to use it, so it’s a cost thing, solder comes in reels or tubes with a few yards inside.

remember to clean thoroughly the joint to be soldered for the best result..     If the point where the wee man fits has a projection requiring a butt joint fit a sleeve over the joint preferably of brass or copper.

  • Like 3
Posted
On 2/29/2024 at 3:46 PM, watchweasol said:

Hi. Soldering is quite straight forward, the main thing is cleaning the areas to be soldered treating with flux and using resin core solder all available fron hardware stores. Soldering irons come in all shapes and sizes. Pistol grip irons , straight tip, spade tip , round tip.  I personally have a seller workstation with four interchangeable tips, probably best value because it covers most bases. But again depends how much you are going to use it, so it’s a cost thing, solder comes in reels or tubes with a few yards inside.

remember to clean thoroughly the joint to be soldered for the best result..     If the point where the wee man fits has a projection requiring a butt joint fit a sleeve over the joint preferably of brass or copper.

Thank you very much! This is very helpful. I will figure out how far I want to go with the soldering. These old clocks are like rabbit holes and cuckoos have turned out to be particularly vexing to me. A new music box would probably be the smartest solution, but that would not have a wooden, cranky looking Music Man with a cracked (but repaired!) head 🙂

Posted

Hi originality is always best, to be kept as it was when made with all its bruises and chip/dings. These are all what it gathered in life, I hate as new restorations as they remove the history from the clock.  Plenty of patience will be required and an investment in time good luck  and come back if you need help.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks for this post MikePilk, I just came across a similar problem with an Omega 1022.  The problem I had was the seconds pinion spring was bent out of shape and did not even engage with the wheel properly, so the seconds hand was not moving at all. (no power loss though :) I removed the automatic module so I could access the spring and work on it. Once I bent it back close to the right shape, I experienced the same problem you reported about power loss.  Many tweaks later, and the seconds hand is moving properly again, with amplitude back to good numbers again. Cheers
    • After cleaning up the pivots, I made bushes on the lathe. At this point I've pressed in 6 bushes (3 sets) and the wheels turn smooth. What I can also tell you, is that I'm not looking forward to final assembly. Getting the pivots aligned seems to get exponentially more difficult with each wheel that is added.
    • Islands are interesting places to live depending upon their size and other factors. This is a bigger island and it has a bridge to get there at least on one end. It's also big enough that you don't have to go someplace else to get things typically. It can be a problem if you get a job in Seattle though. Yes I've known of people who commuted from the island to Seattle for a job and I don't quite remember how many hours it took but it took a long time. So basically islands are nice if you don't have to leave very often.
    • Thanks @JohnR725! Everything you say makes a lot of sense and is encouraging to read.
    • isn't it nice to have a decent case open or when the case doesn't want to be opened? In the case of a Rolex watch that supposed to pass specific water resistant testing you probably do need to tighten the back down. But they shouldn't be tightened so much that they risk stripping the threads out. Then the other problem that comes up is the gaskets can start to disintegrate and then getting the back off can be quite a challenge unless you have a really good tool and perhaps some penetrating oil to loosen things up. Yes really nice case marking. When I was in school we were taught to mark the cases and  the American watch and clockmakers Institute even had a? So if you joined at one time they would give you an identification number. They were explaining or giving an example of if the watches ever found in you have a unique number they can perhaps figure out the history of the watch or identify the body it's attached to for instance not that that probably comes up that often. So you got a unique number and even made a special metal stamp that you can purchase. It wasn't a super big aggressive stamp but still it left a mark in the back of the case. Then I heard from people at work on Rolex watches they were using a felt pen indelible but later on they decided that was bad because apparently the ink could release  chemicals although it seems like once it's dry that shouldn't be an issue. Then of course today was nice is you can keep computer records sealed have to mark anything at all I personally find it's best to leave no reference behind that you were even there. Especially when you have a beautiful watch that has no markings at all and now it has your scribbling all over it not good typically if there is a typical and watch repair?  a lot of minor repairs you don't need to do a complete servicing. But beyond a certain point you're going to have to take apart a lot of stuff you're going to disrupt the lubrication even if it looks perfect right now and yes you might as well just go ahead the service the whole thing. also in a watch like this where a lot of things seem to be going on the complete service would be better then you'll know exactly where you stand versus dealing with unknown mysteries for prior repair.
×
×
  • Create New...