Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, nevenbekriev said:

The short connections that You describe are possible, but it is not dangerous for the coils and even for the entire ciruit. The resistance of the coils is big, so the  battery voltage can not produce enough current to destroy anything. No normal multimeter can do any harm too.

You are right. It is not possible due to the huge resistance in watch coils (i measured about 2K-6K in mine). I confused the coils for being small L inductors, which usually have very tiny resistance.

@LittleWatchShop so maybe the culprit for the burnt watch coils is ESD via touch at the points mentioned? 600V of ESD should do it for 150mA into a 4Kohm coil.

 

8 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

In my younger days tinkering with cars i had plenty of belts from petrol engine ignition systems running at tens of thousands of volts.

🤣 Yeah cars generate insane voltage, but the amps are low. I watch Electroboom sometimes to learn what not to do:

 

Edited by Zero
Posted

I doubt ESD would be able to destroy a coil.

The problem of open Accutron coils has always baffled me. Even if 1.55V were to be applied directly to the coil, it shouldn't be able to fuse the wire. And if anyone noticed, it's always the cell side coil that fails.

So is it a design fault that's causing that coil to burn? Maybe as the components age, the waveform changes and creates more back EMF?

Maybe @LittleWatchShop could investigate the cause of the failure and solve the mystery.

Posted
58 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

it's always the cell side coil that fails.

This coil has been failing since basically the beginning of time. Basically it's not a new phenomenon the prevailing theory way back when was that because jewelry stores and other people change batteries that's why that coil is the first to go out. So basically they were all gone a very long time ago way before any other component in the watch.

59 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

Maybe as the components age

Somewhere but I don't remember where that I don't remember exactly why but there was a reference to the protective coating would cause a failure I'm guessing where the wire is soldered to whatever it's soldered to. So I suppose conceivably if the protective coating should change its size like shrink it could pull away and because the wire to break probably just about anywhere unfortunately.

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Yes I agree, the coils doesn't burn at all, but the wire breaks due mechanical deformation of coil or another possible reason - the flux, used when soldering, has been not cleaned entirely and etches slowly the copper till it is broken.

Posted
1 hour ago, nevenbekriev said:

Yes I agree, the coils doesn't burn at all, but the wire breaks due mechanical deformation of coil or another possible reason - the flux, used when soldering, has been not cleaned entirely and etches slowly the copper till it is broken.

But why does the etching prefer the cell side coil?

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm in the " crack on with what you have " camp. Since you are in the Uk Ingersolls are plentiful, mostly the Great Britain models, but the Swiss made ones are still fairly common on Ebay. The New Chinese clones, were difficult to get parts for...🤔....I'm not sure if they still are, the quality wasn't that great either when it came to things like shock springs. Another complete watch same model Ingersoll will probably set you back less that a couple of clone parts that you will almost certainly lose or break. I never took apart a new working movement, I don't believe it held back my learning at all, in fact quite the opposite.
    • Yeah I can't take credit there - I thought the plastic punch thing was a work of genius when I first discovered it!  
    • Since I've learned lots here I thought I'd share a tip I picked up elsewhere and put to the test... For that 6105/6309 bezel lume pip look I've punched a clear plastic bottle of water, sanded it for the frost effect, removed the (smaller) pip from a standard/cheap replacement bezel, drilled it out to 2.5mm and fitted it using a smaller punch - fresh lume to hold into place.  Pressing into place is a bit awkward but you soon get the hang of it, and the end result is pretty decent I'd say... The worst part probably being the drilling rather than the pip!      It started out like this: 
    • Ive asked this at a Seiko forum but I know there's plenty of experience here too...   As I have it the recently discovered servicing technique on these is that you stuff the crown full of gaskets and work it until the recessed washer pops, remove the washer, switch the gasket out, dish the washer and push it back into place, levelling out the washer in the process? First attempt did not go to plan... I tried using a plastic pusher to manipulate the gaskets in the crown... Wasn't strong enough and I was struggling to even get the gaskets in up until it broke.   Rethink consists of making/using actual tools: I don't have a staking set, so I've got the old man fashioning a metal pusher, essentially a 2.45mm OD tube with 1.6mm ID with a 6mm press the other end. Also got him on a dishing block/conical stake (sorry I'm terrible with terms) and a holder for the crown while I'm working on it...   I figure that's enough to do the process described above? Push with the metal pusher, dish the washer with the conical stake, press back in with wider flat press (drilled centre so it doesn't catch on the tap).    Plan is to stuff, press by hand and repeat? If that doesn't work by hand I've a drill press I could attach the pusher to for a little more leverage if needed. (Obviously I don't want to go too mad with that, and hopefully can avoid it altogether...)   Sounds like a plan? I'd welcome any advice here, since I really don't want to wreck a crown. Having replaced all the other seals though id really like to sort these too. I welcome any input/advice from those who have been there and done it... Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...