Jump to content

I need to find a case for my movement.


Recommended Posts

Hello! Finally digging into my first repair. Watched Lessons 1-3 on WatchFix, so now I'm an expert! Ha. But there's one question that I haven't seen answered in these classes, or in other Youtube videos. How do you find the proper case for a watch?

I bought a cheap movement on ebay. Something that says it didn't run/for parts. I got it going, and now I'd like to actually wear it. It didn't come with a case. It did come with a really nicely worn dial. But I'm struggling on how to find the proper case for it. 

The movement is just a hair over 23mm. And the dial is just slightly over 25mm. It's just a standard manual watch, with the seconds hand down by the 6. What do I need to look for, or search for when looking for a case? I see people showing the dimensions of the outside of the case, but I don't see how that'll help me. I'd hate to buy a complete watch of the same caliber. And since there seems to be a lot of these movements on ebay without cases, the cases have to be somewhere, right?

I've seen plenty of complete watches with square faces. But this movement came with a round dial, so I'd like to find a round dial case. 

Also, if you end up sending me a link to a case that would work, would you mind "showing your work" on how you found that? 

Thanks! Enjoying this so far. Blow away by how small these things are. How the heck did they make these things to begin with? Ha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nothing is standardized in watchmaking. So each combination of movement and dial requires its own case in terms of dimensions. You have to be more than lucky to find a matching case for your movement and dial.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know if suppliers still do this, because I have been retired for years. All you needed was the cal number of the movement say if you wanted white metal or gold plated and give as much info as you could such as description of the dial, seconds hand center or other and they would send a case that would fit. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Kalanag said:

Nothing is standardized in watchmaking. So each combination of movement and dial requires its own case in terms of dimensions. You have to be more than lucky to find a matching case for your movement and dial.

 

Makes sense. I was hoping that since movement's pretty much follow a similar layout, was hoping fitting cases was similar too. Haven't really seen anyone explain how cases work, other than a brief mention in videos as they are taken them apart. 

Besides eBay, are there any other sites that are good for buying used watch parts? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, oldhippy said:

I don't know if suppliers still do this, because I have been retired for years. All you needed was the cal number of the movement say if you wanted white metal or gold plated and give as much info as you could such as description of the dial, seconds hand center or other and they would send a case that would fit. 

Which suppliers would have done this? I've not heard of this before.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/7/2024 at 6:38 AM, woody24 said:

...And since there seems to be a lot of these movements on ebay without cases, the cases have to be somewhere, right?
 

Sorry to ruin You idea how the world works...

Some of the cases get worn and good for nothing, and gold plated ones go to the acid and only the golden 'skin' is what lefts... That is what modern gold diggers do.  There is plenty of naked movements but no cases for them at all.

Edited by nevenbekriev
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, nevenbekriev said:

Sorry to ruin You idea how the world works...

Some of the cases get worn and good for nothing, and gold plated ones go to the acid and only the golden 'skin' is what lefts... That is what modern gold diggers do.  There is plenty of naked movements but no cases for them at all.

That's perfectly fine. I just wasn't expecting it to be a near-impossible task. I was assuming that even if the originals are gone, I'd be able to buy a new case. I wasn't sure how cases work. I figured there may have been a handful of different ways they mount in, but as long as you have dimensions, you could find one. Like crystals and mainsprings. 

It's no real loss. Bought this movement just to see if I could get it running. It's a Longines 23z movement. Figured since it came with the dial, would be fun to make a fully functional watch. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, there is plenty of cases for Seiko movements that people use to assemble their own custom watches. You can use such case, but will have to make custom spacer ring and all the things needed to 'mary' the movement with the case, which is not so somple task

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/7/2024 at 4:38 AM, woody24 said:

And since there seems to be a lot of these movements on ebay without cases, the cases have to be somewhere, right?

Sold for scrap in hard times, melted down to make jewellery maybe even into another watch case at some point ?

56 minutes ago, woody24 said:

That's perfectly fine. I just wasn't expecting it to be a near-impossible task. I was assuming that even if the originals are gone, I'd be able to buy a new case. I wasn't sure how cases work. I figured there may have been a handful of different ways they mount in, but as long as you have dimensions, you could find one. Like crystals and mainsprings. 

It's no real loss. Bought this movement just to see if I could get it running. It's a Longines 23z movement. Figured since it came with the dial, would be fun to make a fully functional watch. 

Its more than just inside diameter and height sizes,  lip to support the dial dimensions, spacer ring around the movement to keep it stable, stem hole position, tube size. Sounds like fun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Update, I discovered that I could change the mainspring by removing the arbor and sliding it out from between the front and back plates. So I put a new mainspring in. This it what I  get over a 7 day period After winding                                          amplitude is 1 1/2 turns plus a few degrees.                                                                        ie just over 1 1/2 turns. 1 day after winding     gained 1 sec      no amplitude check. 2 days after winding   gained 1 sec      amplitude 1 1/2 turns                                                                                                              i.e. it lost the few extra degrees 3 days afer winding    gained 3 sec     no amplitude check 4 days after winding   gained 5 sec     amplitude 1 1/2 turns                                                                                                               i.e. unchanged 5 days after winding   gained 7 sec     no amplitude check 6 days after winding   gained 16sec    amplitude just over 1 1/4 turns 7 days after winding   gained 24sec   amplitude 1 1/4 turns. From  Based on video inspection, I am getting full pallet lock. So, my data seems to be at odds with the statement "swing of a balance wheel has nothing to do with the rate". However, I have noticed the banking posts are not controlling the lever position on the right side.  I may have some work to do here.
    • I can't tell whether or not some stem is stuck in the crown, I  think so though.  If the crown is stainless steel you could try alum to disolve the stem of try drilling it out. If all else fails, buy a new crown. 
    • Does anyone use the x5 eyepieces,  when i use them on my different amscope , the magnification changes to x5 but the field of view remains exactly the same as the x10, so nothing gained. The optical lenses can't be swapped out or at least they are not available as far as i know. 
    • I think maybe we're all a bit dim @ManSkirtBrew 🤣 99% of the time I'm working with the 0.5X Barlow, so mags from 3.5X to 22.5X. When I need a close up of a pivot or jewel, I take the Barlow out, and even put in the 2X Barlow, but it's a nuisance. So like you, I had that D'oh moment, why don't I just use 20X eyepieces (WF20X/10). They take seconds to change, and you keep the working distance. The only downsides are lower field of view, and less brightness.  
    • At the lowest magnification, I can just get all of a normal wristwatch size movement in field. For some things it's too much magnification, but the nice thing about the eyepieces is they only take seconds to swap in and out. I'm genuinely surprised I've never read about anyone else doing it, to be honest.
×
×
  • Create New...