Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

A compound gear wheel has separated into its two component gear wheels. The smaller one, comprising the axle, was affixed to the larger (about 8mm diameter) at some 8-10 points around its centre hole with a few mm (of the hub), plus that end of the axle, protruding on the far side. I'd be grateful for advice on how to go about re-uniting the two parts. (it's actually part of a music box mechanism - I'm assuming the techniques are similar for watch gears....)

Posted
4 hours ago, RichardHarris123 said:

It looks like a staff and the pivots are broken, I would assume the wheel is riveted on. 

Are the pivots broken, or are they just cone shaped at the end like Timex pivots?

Does the wheel just need pushing back on ?

Posted
On 12/24/2023 at 6:24 PM, dnhb said:

Thanks for your interest, Mike. Photos attached.

Separated compound gear wheel -1.jpg

Separated compound gear wheel -2.jpg

It just looks like a basic drive wheel,  pinion and wheel riveted together or pressed in held by friction. How loose is the fit ? you might be able to spread the rivet out again if its still intact or close up the hole with a domed punch to friction fit again.

Posted

Thanks for your interest, Mike. Photos attached.

I can't see how to respond individually to each of your helpful responses, Folks, so this is a portmanteau response & 'thank you':  The Pivots are cone shaped at the end, not broken. Not sure what is meant by "spread the rivet out again" but it may well be that the Pinion of the smaller cog wheel was just a friction fit in the hole of the larger wheel. I'd come across the idea of closing up such a 'housing' hole with a punch before, but couldn't remember where and so wasn't sure how to do it without buckling the wheel itself.....

Posted
54 minutes ago, dnhb said:

Thanks for your interest, Mike. Photos attached.

I can't see how to respond individually to each of your helpful responses, Folks, so this is a portmanteau response & 'thank you':  The Pivots are cone shaped at the end, not broken. Not sure what is meant by "spread the rivet out again" but it may well be that the Pinion of the smaller cog wheel was just a friction fit in the hole of the larger wheel. I'd come across the idea of closing up such a 'housing' hole with a punch before, but couldn't remember where and so wasn't sure how to do it without buckling the wheel itself.....

Some components are held together by a flange that is attached to one of the parts . That part would be inserted through the hole and the flange spread out and folded over so it grips the adjoining part. Tbh this just looks like its friction fitted and would be inserted under pressure.  If the hole is slack fit it could be closed up with a wider domed punch. 

Posted
On 12/30/2023 at 4:01 PM, CYCLOPS said:

that wheel is press-fit onto the pinion, if loose you can flatten or peen the hole smaller with a round faced punch from a staking set, I hope this helps 

I've just invested in an old K&D 600 series staking tool set in order to do this.....

On 12/30/2023 at 11:54 AM, Neverenoughwatches said:

Some components are held together by a flange that is attached to one of the parts . That part would be inserted through the hole and the flange spread out and folded over so it grips the adjoining part. Tbh this just looks like its friction fitted and would be inserted under pressure.  If the hole is slack fit it could be closed up with a wider domed punch. 

Thanks for explaining that - I've found an illustration on YT of this being done.

  • Like 1
Posted

that is still one of the best staking sets, you won't be sorry you found it, there is a booklet/leaflet that explains how to use the different punches and stumps also....

Posted
2 hours ago, CYCLOPS said:

that is still one of the best staking sets, you won't be sorry you found it, there is a booklet/leaflet that explains how to use the different punches and stumps also....

 Thanks. After a bit of research within this & other Forums, I thought the K&D Inverto facility was a key feature along with the reasonable availability of stakes & stumps, K&D's reputation and, as you say, the available documentation (e.g  https://archive.org/details/KDStakingTools/page/n17/mode/2up & at https://kanddinverto.weebly.com/junior-inverto-600.html). With no real idea about value for money (although I know there are other watch repairs I'll be using it for) but assuming it might be an appreciating asset in the long term, I paid £268 (inc P&P) for a set with 76 (out of 100, judging by the 'holes') stakes and 15 (out of 20) Stumps with a box albeit missing 2 handles & original latch but otherwise in apparently good condition. I could have bought a new, Indian-made boxed set for £375 with 120/20 items or waited for a complete K&D set to turn up but I feel, as you imply, that I've made the right decision- as they used to say of a Rolls Royce purchase: "the Quality remains long after the Price has been forgotten".

  • Like 2
Posted
On 1/3/2024 at 10:46 PM, dnhb said:

Thanks for explaining that [ i.e. "Some components are held together by a flange that is attached to one of the parts . That part would be inserted through the hole and the flange spread out and folded over so it grips the adjoining part. Tbh this just looks like its friction fitted and would be inserted under pressure.  If the hole is slack fit it could be closed up with a wider domed punch." ]

Bearing in mind your comment, on firing up my Adonstar magnifier I found that there was a 'castellated' flange at the end of the cogged pinion of the smaller part although the flange length wasn't long enough to be folded over on the far side of the big wheel once inserted. However, your comment caused me to push out the flange from its slightly folded-in state - which I did using a round nose hollow stake (K&D #80) - press the piece into the larger wheel & then re-tighten the connection with the #80 stake. The compound wheel is now re-installed in the music box mechanism which is now working !

  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I believe @nickelsilver has a setup like that.
    • I posted pictures earlier in this thread. My lathe and mill are two separate instruments. I think I have seen examples of putting a milling head on a lathe bed...but not certain.
    • Timex Camper, September 1994, new to me. Strap is an old perlon with "Germany" in script etched into the resin on the tail end. Not Horlon or Eulit I believe. History unknown, running strong, losing less than a minute a day. Goals for this: Wear it a ton! Buy crystal lift, clean out the gunk around the ring and under the crystal Eventually swap into a stainless steel case. I've seen a member who has swapped a Timex mechanical movement into the Timex J.Crew quartz field watch case.
    • One of the problems we would have with a watchmaker's lathe is they were made over considerable span of time and manufacturing in the early days probably wasn't as good as it was today. Then if you look at the older catalogs typically it was just the head a few collets and something to rest graver on. So basically a basic lathe with over time things acquired but acquired things may or may not fit. Order today you purchase a used lathe that all kinds of nifty bits and pieces from a seller that acquired from? This would come back to that the basic watchmaker's lathe was used for basic watchmaking like turning things with a hand graver. Then limited indexing is fine because you can make things like stems Which don't need a whole bunch indexing   In the link above the word vector is mentioned and at the link below you can purchase one. Then of course you're going to need the motor that's a little bit extra for the price. https://www.hswalsh.com/product/lathe-vector-watchmakers-48-collets-hl11. That you're going to need some bonus parts like these found this picture online show the classic way of classic gear cutting.   The lathe could have a much bigger indexing disk but it has to be mounted close to the edge. Otherwise you're going to have a whole bunch of smaller disks like this which I think has notches rather than holes. Then as wonderful as these pictures look actually cutting a gear with this is not entirely fun. Look at all is belts all pulling on things and this is a watchmaker's lathe lightweight with lots of bits and pieces attached. It would make more sense if you actually cut a gear with something like this and it tends to be it's not really the best way to do it looks nice on paper but it is not the best way to go. Reality for cutting watch parts would be a bigger machine is much better. Than getting rid of all those belts and pulleys also good. Here is an interesting channel I would've liked of found a different video but this was nice and short if you look at his video as he uses a stepping motor and worm gear assembly for the indexing plate. In this particular video it gets attached to the lathe at about one minute and seven seconds and it looks like it's hiding looks like he has a Sherline. I do know he's had other stuff you'll just have to go through his videos to find it. Then at about one minute and 22 seconds you find out if you set up things appropriately. It's always bad we end up with half a tooth at the very end. Then you will note big lathe yes he's getting a big gear but you could easily cut a watch gear with the setup. And it definitely way more stable than a watchmaker's lathe.         Oh here's a company they been in business since 1911 http://www.fwderbyshireinc.com/  
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
×
×
  • Create New...