Jump to content

Bulova 11AF Will Not Run


Recommended Posts

Link worked for me, did not disassemble anything yet.  Thanks for the quick feedback. Started looking deeper into the coil and could see it was slightly bent where it attached to the bridge so I straightened it while assembled, it is now running but with very low amplitude. I can see also the balance spring is not perfectly concentric when in the pivot one side of the coils are closer to each other than the other. What should be my next steps?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 We need to see the coil,  detach the balance complete from the cock, show a clear close up top view of the coil, one from the side too. 

 You would need high magnification to show the pivots, putting a loup in front your phone lenz often works good enough to show the pivots. 

Rgds

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

 We need to see the coil,  detach the balance complete from the cock, show a clear close up top view of the coil, one from the side too. 

 You would need high magnification to show the pivots, putting a loup in front your phone lenz often works good enough to show the pivots. 

Rgds

 

To remove the balance, just undo the screw from the cock and take the coil out of the regulator pins? Can I just take this off or does anything need to be documented or marked for reassembly?

Here is a picture where you can see the coils that are not concentric. 

PXL_20231214_010656453.MP~2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Berwolf said:

you can see the coils that are not concentric. 

 A flat but not concentric coil doesn't stop the watch , at worst makes it beat faster. Hairspring rubbing on balance spokes or underside of the cock can grind the oscilator to a hault.

This terminal curve can benefit from minor adjustment and coil sorted out to concentric. Sure way to check pivots is under high magnification so best to seperate the oscilator from the cock, no need to mark or document anything for what your about to do now.

Can you show the pallete lock on escape teeth?  

Good luck 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are a few pictures with the balance spring disassembled and the pivots.  I think it all looks ok. I reassembled the balance to the bridge and put it back together and it is running better.  Don't have a timegrapher so leaving it running to see how it keeps time now. Thanks for everyone's help!

 

PXL_20231215_011537730.MP.jpg

PXL_20231215_011121045.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The hairspring looks pretty well twisted right at the stud, which is something I've seen on several watches I've done (and has been the easiest to fix of the hairspring defects I've dealt with).

That would cause the hairspring to twist relative to the plane of the balance wheel, possibly rubbing on it or the cock and stopping it.

Can we see the balance complete installed directly from the side and front? Your hairspring should be dead parallel to the balance wheel and the balance cock.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is first picture showing balance in perfect vertical position?    if so the coil isn't perfectly  parrallel with the balance rim, which means coil might have or is rubbing on spokes or underside of the cock when it expands while

breathing.

Terminal curve needs sorting. 

Should look like this,

https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/57eb39332e69cfdc14c1d642/1493346917160-F9KK4KMEUYAPOZLH8XG7/image-asset.jpeg?format=1500w

Notice stud stands prependicular to the coil.

Edited by Nucejoe
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, ManSkirtBrew said:

The hairspring looks pretty well twisted right at the stud, which is something I've seen on several watches I've done (and has been the easiest to fix of the hairspring defects I've dealt with).

That would cause the hairspring to twist relative to the plane of the balance wheel, possibly rubbing on it or the cock and stopping it.

Can we see the balance complete installed directly from the side and front? Your hairspring should be dead parallel to the balance wheel and the balance cock.

this is why and I thought I already mentioned this maybe it was in another discussion it's always best to look at the hairspring in the watch where the problem is. When you remove the balance wheel with hairspring as you can see the hairspring looks fine obviously we don't have a problem except it's out of the watch and that's not where the problem is.

So yes the stud does look like it's twisted but it's hard to tell it would be best if the whole thing was back in the watch where we can look at it carefully and see if it is bent. So balance wheel back in the watch and you look carefully and grasping now that you're bent at the stud which is a classic place to bend hairsprings.

So classically removing balance completes from watch is they will get bent in a variety of locations the stud is the most popular place followed by the regulator pins and in other places we don't want to talk about because your hairspring looked fine other than the stud.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well disaster struck last night on the hair spring. I took it back out and was working on it a bit on some rodico. Part of the hairspring stuck to the rodico when I was going to reassemble it and it got tangled and I was unable to save it. I have another movement on order so I can take the balance from it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I see burs or raised metal on the underside of the bridge also, this can tip the balance bridge too far one way or another creating too much or no inshake, old timers used to do this on pocket watches....you can find these movements easily for parts

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Here's my first proper post, copied from the one I made on the NAWCC forum last week, so far unanswered. I am working on an antique French carriage timepiece. It's a good make (Hollingue Freres who produced for Drocourt), with lever platform by Joseph Soldano (who also supplied Dent), all freshly overhauled. It runs with a good amplitude at the usual 18000bph. But it gains time massively - about three minutes each hour (that's over an hour per day!). The wheels are all perfect with no damaged or missing teeth and the silvered Soldano platform is almost certainly the original. Now, the escape wheel has 15 teeth and its pinion has 8 leaves - all pretty common. It looks original but in the absence of any other explanation, I'm wondering if it's a replacement and if the original had 15 teeth and seven leaves. If I were to change the platform for one with an escape wheel with 7 leaves, it would obviously run slower while maintaining the 18000bph, but how much slower? Is it a simple math question of seven-eighths as fast as the current one with 8 leaves? 63mins x 7/8 = 55mins would mean it's far too slow. What am I missing here? @nickelsilver
    • If anyone can help he out with a repivot please DM me and we can talk.
    • Hello WRT members my name is Willem I am from the Netherlands I haven’t been around a lot on the forum but did asked some advice in the past which helped me a lot. I started 4 years ago with a seiko 5m42-0e69 I inherited from my father. I could wair it because the bracelet was to small. Seiko did not had spare rubber inserts any more so I had to find donor watches but unfortunately also these rubber bands didn’t last long so had to find another I but this seems to be a original SLQ003 watch strap full length and uncut also found out this strap isn’t produced anymore. Than I came to the idea to find someone who can 3D print the straps and it work out well for me and than the journey began for me.  This first picture is how I started 4 years ago.  I ended up like this. I found all the 0e60/69 different faces and than started to collect all the different 0e39 faces. So now I can close this chapter.  From another angle.  Not all the faces are shown in 1998 catalog  Here you can see all different faces.  I will show you later on my watches one by one Here’s is my fathers watch with the printed strap Than I started to experiment with colors.  This one bought because off the bracelet but unfortunately broke so I gave it a new color 
    • As requested - tricky to get a clear image of the holes, but you get the idea. Notice the new crystal, another first for me, it's amazing what a new crystal does for an old watch!   Oh, and the other bit I'm proud of from an 80y old watch:   And photos of the movement too if interested...
×
×
  • Create New...