Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey again watch peeps. Finding a really good repair book can be a bit hit and miss, and when a recommendation comes along it can get quite expensive. So here a little discovery i made yesterday that should only cost you a few quid. I've had this book on my shelf for about 18 months, its not a big book around A4ish size with 200 pages and old, almost a 100yrs for the 1st edition. Now most of us have heard of Aegler, basically the manufacturer that put Rolex on the map, without Aegler they might not be what they are today. They had a very long partnership starting about 120 yrs ago, from what I've read more or less in each other's pockets since the 1920's, slowing blending together to finish as one company in 2004. The Aegler family also included the Borer family, through marriage ? The Borer family did buy out Aegler in the late 60's who eventually sold it to Rolex. One member of the Borer family was heavily involved with Rolex's design and technical department creating the Rolex Perpetual among others during his time, he was also on Rolex's board of directors this would be Emile Borer. I only realised yesterday after some reading that the writer of my book E.Borer being the same guy. For a few quid must be worth a read is it not ? 

20231205_233004.jpg

20231205_233022.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
31 minutes ago, tomh207 said:

@Neverenoughwatches

i just ordered a copy Rich, got to be worth a punt for a fiver

 

Tom

The price can vary, i have seen it anywhere from £3 -£30. I guess its knowing what you are selling. I've only just started to read it. The section on escapement is really good even the  guy apparently had a brilliant mind its not super technical, inside is a pull out illustration showing 30 points to watch and why things happen if they are not set up correctly. The book was wrote shortly after he designed the Oyster Perpetual the worlds first fully reliable automatic watch. 

Screenshot_20231206-090627_Chrome.jpg

Posted

I have the same book and it does indeed have a lot of useful stuff in it.

You had me a little confused when you described it as...

9 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

A4ish size

as my copy is almost exactly A5, but it is the same edition as yours, just love the adverts in the front..

If I remember rightly mine was just a couple of quid in and antiquarian book shop.

  • Like 1
Posted
11 minutes ago, Marc said:

I have the same book and it does indeed have a lot of useful stuff in it.

You had me a little confused when you described it as...

as my copy is almost exactly A5, but it is the same edition as yours, just love the adverts in the front..

If I remember rightly mine was just a couple of quid in and antiquarian book shop.

Haha yeah its sort of inbetween 4 and 5 ish. maybe more 5ish 😅. Mr. Borer keeps it mostly simple, the articles are 100 yrs old ish thats just how folk were then, some of it feels like he's educating a nine year old which suits me just fine 😄. Its interesting reading his views and theories on cleaning and lubrication, oil movement within components like the escapement and the very start of using chemicals for oil adherence and retention, its very clear that he loved an experiment or two since he was head of technical department of the most famous watch brand in the world. Even at almost 100 yrs old its made me look more closely at what i do, definitely should have read it a lot sooner.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I am puzzled by something a snipped out something from your image and what exactly disassemble tell us? my confusion is the symbol for FHF looks like image I have below year symbol as a star and righted this instant are not finding what that means? I suppose we could use the fingerprint system to verify it really is what it claimed to be. Size itself is really interesting there's almost no watches in that particular size. Then were missing details in the photograph above like diameter of movements to verify it really is the size and are missing the setting components.   went to the bestfit book looking at the symbols didn't see it. Look at the link below I did find it back to the bestfit book and yes it really is there https://reference.grail-watch.com/documents/history-of-ebauches-sa/ then bestfit book says lists the size as 10 1/2. one of the problems with vintage watches is finding parts yes a donor watch would be good.
    • Actually, this could be the issue. Drag from the module could be overcoming the cannon pinion. It was definitely not at the point that the driving wheel was loose on the cannon pinion, it took a little bit of effort to rotate it when applying the grease. Maybe I need to look again at applying oil to the pivots.    Yeah, it's very annoying. I don't want to give up on it, so back on with it over again until I catch a break. 
    • The sping is not pushing directly on the cap, but is pushing against the spindle. So, even if the usual black cap is replaced with the micrometer cap, the spindle is still pushed up.
    • But he tells that the micrometer cap doesn't screw into the spindle. How can the spring push the spindle up if there's nothing to grip? There is a screw visible on top of the micrometer cap so should it be able to screw into the spindle? I'm feeling really dumb now. Does anyone manufacture that cap as an aftermarket item? Might be worth investing. Ok so the spindle is different, now I get it.
    • I suppose? If it worked before and it doesn't work now I guess the question would be why does it not work now? That would come back to if you did not have the chronograph module on will it work or is the chronograph module sucking too much power out of the watch basically 99 usually when they go bad you can hold on the tube part and usually just spin the wheel because it has zero holding at all so usually when they go bad they go bad very bad. You should build hotel when you set the watch as to whether it seems to have any friction or not. I'm just wondering if the chronograph module is the problem.
×
×
  • Create New...